Wooden Strap Cutter Modification

[TomE]

Thanks, @tsunkasapa and @Gezzer.  I added a few center punch craters and put a dab of anti seize compound on the threads. This Craftool cutter had thread locker on the threads holding the disk on the screw. Now it locks very nicely at the set width and stays there when I cut heavy straps. I used 3oz chrome tan instead of cardboard to make a shim to cant the blade. I have better luck with the shim on the side next to the blade instead of the opposite. At any rate, I’m happy with the modifications and cranking out 3/8” loop stock for fixed and running loops. Thanks for your suggestions. 

[TomE]

5 hours ago, sbrownn said:

I haven't had any trouble with mine wandering that wasn't due to "operator error".  Sometimes though and especially for narrow strips, I push the leather through from the back side instead of pulling it through.

Sorry my earlier reply didn’t get posted - operator error.  Thanks for your reply, @sbrownn. I am typically cutting straps from sides of 9-10 oz leather so I am drawing the tool along the edge. For sure it’s operator error and I’ll take all the help I can get. The above modifications seem to have improved the consistency of my narrow straps. 

[sbrownn]

1 hour ago, TomE said:

Sorry my earlier reply didn’t get posted - operator error.  Thanks for your reply, @sbrownn. I am typically cutting straps from sides of 9-10 oz leather so I am drawing the tool along the edge. For sure it’s operator error and I’ll take all the help I can get. The above modifications seem to have improved the consistency of my narrow straps. 

The problem I have with drawing the tool along the edge is that my pulling hand has a natural tendency to pull the backside of the tool away from the leather.  I find if I use my other hand to guide the leather from the back holding it against the flat back face of the tool I get better results.  The pushing technique I use developed from using my off hand at the back of the tool; since I don't fasten the other end of the leather down I don't have anything to pull against...hence the need to push.  

[sbrownn]

3 hours ago, TomE said:

The other thing I don't like about my wooden strap cutter is that the metal disk that fixes the wooden bar in place turns together with the adjustment screw. 

That is odd but it sounds like others have had the same problem.  I have had two of the tools and in both cases the disc was not attached to the adjusting screw at all and I don't know why anyone would want it to be attached...unless its to keep the disc from falling out?

[Gezzer]

 

4 hours ago, TomE said:

 

The other thing I don't like about my wooden strap cutter is that the metal disk that fixes the wooden bar in place turns together with the adjustment screw.  

I never had that problem because this is how mine is made . (SLC )

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TomE]

7 hours ago, sbrownn said:

The problem I have with drawing the tool along the edge is that my pulling hand has a natural tendency to pull the backside of the tool away from the leather.  I find if I use my other hand to guide the leather from the back holding it against the flat back face of the tool I get better results.  The pushing technique I use developed from using my off hand at the back of the tool; since I don't fasten the other end of the leather down I don't have anything to pull against...hence the need to push.  

Good advice when working with a piece of leather that can be picked up.  I typically buy sides and cut full length straps of various widths, leaving the belly for other projects.  The draw guage and plough gauge work well for wider straps.  I can cut narrow straps from scraps of wider straps using the wooden cutter and pushing the leather through.  

[sbrownn]

Yes, I agree.  I was talking about cutting narrow straps.  I cut the wider straps in the traditional manner by pulling but still use my off hand to guide and hold the the leather against the back flat behind the blade.  If I'm going to cut straps off of a whole side I start by using a 4' straight edge go get one good edge on the side and then work from there.  I assume that's probably how a lot of others do it as well?