thread break/fray new Consew CP206RL

[esty]

i just bought a new Consew CP206RL and am having a problem i can't figure out...i'm using a 135x17 needle with T70 bonded thread...i'm pretty certain i'm threading the machine correctly, according to a video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_x3OJ0_rLnw

tension seems fine until threading through the thread take up, then, it is very hard to pull even with zero tension on the tension dial...a have not been able to sew more than a few stitches without the thread breaking

 

i can pull the thread though the machine by hand until i pass the thread through the thread take up then trying to pull it through by hand the thread breaks

 

i'd appreciate any help, thoughts or suggestions

 

[Wizcrafts]

Post a close-up, low resolution (for file size) photo showing how the thread is going around the top tension guide and disks. It may be getting caught on the post that keeps the disks in their position, or it might be outside the disks, or incorrectly threaded around the check spring. Make sure that the thread doesn't drop under the thread spool and jam there.

[esty]

 

i can easily slide the tread through all points until i reach the take up..thread doesn't appear to get hung or caught on anything...ansd is in the middle of the tension plates

 

 

 

[esty]

a better look...

 

[kgg]

2 hours ago, esty said:

according to a video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_x3OJ0_rLnw

That video is incorrect starting at 5:50 when he threads the top thread around in an "S" pattern in the top pin (can be done this way if you need addition top thread tension) then he continues with another mistake by going under the tension disc before going through the twisted part of that guide. The tension disc is only used when you are winding a bobbin. I stopped viewing the video stopped at this point.

The best video to view are the ones made by Sailrite. An example would be Start Sewing with your New Ultrafeed Sewing Machine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_TC4bztXVo&list=PLAbM539i4biWOFtdRlX6JE0F_Y9uLPO-z&index=3 even thought this is for the LSZ-1 they are threaded the same.

Your guide that you have just before the main tension disc is incorrect and should be turned 90 degrees towards the head. The top thread needs to be pulled up above the little thread guide in the tension disc just above the thread spring.

kgg

 

 

Edited November 14, 2022 by kgg

[esty]

thanks kgg...i watched the Sailrite video, followed his instructions and the thread stopped breaking...now if i can get the tension dialed in....
 

 

[kgg]

54 minutes ago, esty said:

now if i can get the tension dialed in....

To get the bobbin tension probably close enough do the drop test. A good method is shown in this video by Gymnast in his video called " How to adjust Bobbin Thread Tension of Sewing Machine " ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kINRgj42GnI ) at about the 4:21 mark, he calls it the "yoyo".  Once you get the bobbin tension roughly set you can concentrate on the top tension as long as you have the top thread properly threaded through the main tension disc like in the Sailrite video at 5:50. Remember the bobbin tension needs to be checked / reset every-time you change the size of thread or install a new spool of thread.

Also note the stitch length will not be maintained as you increase the thickness / toughness of the material under the pressor foot, the stitch length will decrease. 

kgg

 

[esty]

For almost 20 years I have been sewing upholstery vinyl to what you may call 18-20oz home carpeting…I have uses 2 machines, the cheap, throwaway Brother LX series and Singer heavy Duty-Classic machine and have never had bad results…the problem with those machines is they don’t hold up long tern to the heavy duty material and when they start getting wonky, I just replace them

 

Fast forward to a few weeks ago, I decided to buy a heavier machine with a walking foot, the Consew CP206RL…about my only considerations were that it was a walking foot, and price…I only sew straight stitches, no zigzag, etc

 

The needles that came with the machine, 135/17 are the same needles used in my heavy old Consew 255 that has never faltered…with the Brother and Singer Machine I’ve always used Schmetz Nm100 needles and never anything but B69-T70 Bonded Nylon thread

 

I’ve never had any issues with thread fraying but on the new Consew CP206RL I can't sew more than a few inches of the rough carpet unless the thread frays and finally breaks…it does fine with other heavy materials that don’t have the rough bottom

 

I guess what I’m asking is, is there a better needle for heavier, stiff, rough backed carpet or any ideas about why this machine and none of the others is fraying the thread

 

i appreciate all the help

 

 

[Wizcrafts]

The first thing I would recommend is moving UP to a #18 or 19 needle. Stick with round points for carpeting. I have a customer who makes custom car floor pads and brings them to me for the final sewing and edging. I use #69 bonded nylon with a #18 or 19 needle, depending on how tight the jute is woven on the back. I also run them through my Hobby Lock serger to finish the edges, again with #18 needles and #69 thread.

[kgg]

1 hour ago, esty said:

I guess what I’m asking is, is there a better needle for heavier, stiff, rough backed carpet or any ideas about why this machine and none of the others is fraying the thread

What size of needle are you using with the V60 (T70) thread. The # 100 (#16) needle is made for sewing thin soft material with V69 but is more for V46 in thicker material. Using V69 move up to at least #19 and in thick or tough material a #21. You maybe having some needle deflection and the thread rubbing on something. Also check and see if there isn't a burr on the thread guides, presser foot or feed dog.

If you haven't passed the thread through the needle guide on the needle bar just before the needle you will also get fraying. A good view of this guide hole is at 7:12 of the Sailrite video.

Also the type of hardback coating as well as how thick the items being sewn are will also to be factors. These machines were design for flat sail material 1/4" thick and can struggle with fluffy stuff. This can sometimes come down to whether the fluff is towards the feed dog as it maybe catching or being compacted into the needle plate or feed dog. Sometimes this can be solved by using a thin piece of paper between the fluff and the feed dog.

A good cross reference of thread size to needle size can be found at www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

kgg

[esty]

2 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

 #18 or 19 needle. Stick with round points

i googled and am not that needle savvy...can you please provide a link to a needle like you are referring to...please & thank you

 

and kkg using the same thread and needle size, i described above, i've never had a fraying problem with the cheap, lightweight Brother and Singer machines, nor with my Consew 255

[Wizcrafts]

On 11/14/2022 at 10:40 AM, esty said:

I just bought a new Consew CP206RL and am having a problem i can't figure out...i'm using a 135x17 needle with T70 bonded thread.

System 135x17 is a round point needle system. Here is an ebay supplier selling #19 round point needles in size 19 that will fit your machine.

[esty]

On 11/15/2022 at 10:33 PM, Wizcrafts said:

System 135x17 round point needle in size 19

thanks for the help...i bought some of the needles you suggested and will give them a test drive as soon as i have some time