Making veg tan more supple

[Chitin]

Alright, I'm trying to make my veg tan leather super-soft and comfy, like latigo. I realize I'll never reach the suppleness of latigo in regular veg tan, but I'd love some tips and tricks as to how to make it as comfortable as possible. I love the "feel" of latigo, but need the flexibility of veg (I do a lot of dying and some minor tooling). Thanks!

Edit: I should say what I'm already doing. I'm using 6-7 oz veg tan generally (sometimes thicker, sometimes thinner, but that's the average). After dying with either pro oil dye or Eco Flo depending on what color I want, I massage in a pretty generous amount of neat's foot oil. I've been experimenting with Lexol, but I'm not liking the results it's giving me. I then slick the sides and back with gum tragacanth and finish with super sheen. Crocking is a very big deal for me as my items are made to be worn, and so far super sheen is the only thing I've found that makes them waterproof enough in back.

Edited February 11, 2008 by Chitin

[Hidemechanic]

What is it you are making?

Maybe you should be going to a chap leather which is supple to start with. Veg. tooling leather isn't really intended to be worn, though you can use whatever you choose.

Not familiar with crocking.

When I do want a softer veg. though, I use mink oil after neatsfoot and use a blo-dryer to help work it in. I do it with bags and boots.

Frankly, for something I need water resistance for I start out with a waxy hot stuffed latago and save myself the trouble since the effect I want has been done for me. I just refresh the hide with warming mink oil as I mentioned when it needs it. GH

[Chitin]

What is it you are making?

Maybe you should be going to a chap leather which is supple to start with. Veg. tooling leather isn't really intended to be worn, though you can use whatever you choose.

Not familiar with crocking.

When I do want a softer veg. though, I use mink oil after neatsfoot and use a blo-dryer to help work it in. I do it with bags and boots.

Frankly, for something I need water resistance for I start out with a waxy hot stuffed latago and save myself the trouble since the effect I want has been done for me. I just refresh the hide with warming mink oil as I mentioned when it needs it. GH

See, I would just use latigo, but I do a fair amount of tooling and two-tone dying on my items. "Crocking" just means dye bleeding onto skin and clothing.

Thanks for the tip on the mink oil... anywhere you suggest I should get it?

[pete]

bick's #4

pete

[yaklady]

Try some extra virgin olive oil. When I make belts or gun belts, I want them soft and supple. I put on a few light coats of the oil, letting it sit a spell in between. Then I work it in by flexing the leather all different directions. If you want it darker, set it in direct sunshine in between coats. Makes a fool proof method of dyeing leather brown, and it won't ever crock. I slick it down with a bar of glycerine saddle soap, and finish it with Tan Kote. Tan Kote can be washed off at a later date to add more oil when needed. I don't like Super Sheene, I've seen it crack and peel too many times, but I don't have a decent answer to the crocking problem. Do the Eco-Flo dyes crock, too?

Kathy

[David]

Try some extra virgin olive oil. When I make belts or gun belts, I want them soft and supple. I put on a few light coats of the oil, letting it sit a spell in between. Then I work it in by flexing the leather all different directions. If you want it darker, set it in direct sunshine in between coats. Makes a fool proof method of dyeing leather brown, and it won't ever crock. I slick it down with a bar of glycerine saddle soap, and finish it with Tan Kote. Tan Kote can be washed off at a later date to add more oil when needed. I don't like Super Sheene, I've seen it crack and peel too many times, but I don't have a decent answer to the crocking problem. Do the Eco-Flo dyes crock, too?

Kathy

To stop crocking, I use NeatLac. I rub in one or two coats depending on how shiny I want it.

Dave Theobald

Edited February 12, 2008 by David

[Chitin]

To stop crocking, I use NeatLac. I rub in one or two coats depending on how shiny I want it.

Dave Theobald

I just ordered some NeatLac, I'm excited to try it. My items sit directly over skin or clothing, so I have to be VERY careful about dyes running. My usual standard is to try it under the tap and rub it on a white t-shirt. If it doesn't crock, that's a product I'll use. I don't want to be paying for anybody's ruined shirt. So far only the acrylics have done the trick.

[zaynexpetty]

I would also like to know how to make veg tan more supple. Right now, I have read about applying multiple light coats of neatsfoot oil, although I am unsure of how long to let it dry in between coats.

As for the crocking, have you tried using 50/50 acrylic resolene as a finish? I use pro oil dye for my belts and wallets and have been using 50/50 water and resolene as a finish, with buffing after dying, oiling, and finishing, and I haven't noticed any crocking, I even dye the inside of my belts (even my black belts), which a lot of people don't recommend, but applying resolene to the flesh side helps avoid any pigments rubbing off.

Good luck!

Zayne

Try some extra virgin olive oil. When I make belts or gun belts, I want them soft and supple. I put on a few light coats of the oil, letting it sit a spell in between. Then I work it in by flexing the leather all different directions. If you want it darker, set it in direct sunshine in between coats. Makes a fool proof method of dyeing leather brown, and it won't ever crock. I slick it down with a bar of glycerine saddle soap, and finish it with Tan Kote. Tan Kote can be washed off at a later date to add more oil when needed. I don't like Super Sheene, I've seen it crack and peel too many times, but I don't have a decent answer to the crocking problem. Do the Eco-Flo dyes crock, too?

Kathy

When you say "letting it sit a spell in between", how long approximately would you say you wait? Is there a good indicator that the leather has taken that coat of oil, and is ready for the next?

Zayne

Edited August 1, 2014 by zaynexpetty

[yaklady]

A "spell" should be a couple of hours or so. I let it sit until it appears that the oil is not spreading any farther. Then I know that I need to add more. If you apply more oil too soon, you can get too much. Too much oil can make your leather spongy and fall apart. When I was an impatient kid, I would dip my reins into the neatsfoot oil bottle to hurry up the job. My reins didn't last very long.

Kathy

[alyshae]

I'll flex the leather a few times during drying, too. Seems to help. I also use the resolene 50/50 on bridles and chap yokes and it holds up well. I can track it since I ride at the stable where most of my stuff is being used.