Leather Bum Report post Posted February 12, 2008 I would like to hear everbody's sharpening process for edgers like the CS Osborne Quick Cut Edgers. . . I've attached a picture of the one I have (a size 3). I'm wondering what is the best way to sharpen the rounded edge in the narrow groove on the bottom side. Do you just basically use the techniques described in the Stohlman tools book with "slip stones" or jewelers files. . .? What's your favorite method? L'Bum Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted February 12, 2008 LEATHER BUM WHEN I SHARPEN MINE I HAVE A LEATHER DISC EMPERGNATED WITH BUFFING COUMPOUND IT BRINGS THE EDGE BACK FOR ME. BROWN SHARPENS AND THEN THE RED WILL POLISH.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barra Report post Posted February 12, 2008 I have a length of bridle leather about 2 foot long X 1/4" wide tied to my bench. It is just an off cut left over from trimming some other strap down. I can then use one of the right angled edges of the leather to get into the inside of the edge tool to strop. Barra Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Report post Posted February 12, 2008 I rounded off one end of my sharpening stone with a sander, Use that and then buff. A friend of mine has a piece of string impregnated with buffing compound he uses. Weaver sells a board with several different weights of leather mounted in it that you can apply grit or compound to and sharpen on that. Kevin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted February 12, 2008 One of two ways for me. I either use a smooth rod the same diameter of the edger and use 800 grit sand paper. Place the sandpaper over the rod, and run the edger back and forth over the rod, moving the sandpaper to clean spots as necessary. Then a light buff on the buffing wheel. Or, if you just need a hone, use a string of round lace, rub in some jeweler's rouge and pull away from the cutting edge. Pull through several times. A light buff on the buffer and you're on your way. Marlon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hidemechanic Report post Posted February 13, 2008 I know there are others with opinions that will differ from mine,What's new? But I highly caution folks from using griders and sand papers on these fine tools.Those who do professional sharpening usually have very fine stones that will be the exception,I have seen and do own tools that have seen better days way before their time. Many of you have heard the term 'strop, strop strop'. I agree that when you get a new cutting tool it may need an inicial edge put on it and therefore need the use of high abracives. But ones you have a anagle and a good edge all you should need is a good strop. I started out using a lace that I pinned to the top of my cutting table but it too often would wiggle just enough to make it hard to a series of good passes. I later took a 4" board and glued a piece of skirting to it. Used my gouge to make a set of 'beeds' that fit the sizes of my edgers. I apply rouge to them and begin stropping. As Marlon said dragging way from the cutting edge(same as stropping a swivel knife) once I feel I have a sufficient stropped edge I use the lace on my cutting table to strop the reverse side of the edger lightly to polish off the bur that is created by the stropping on the other side. It has also been my experience that using a buffing wheel will round the clean edge you just put on your edger.Take care there. What I am calling our 'fine' tools are the tools we use for finish work, how ever I do own some near turn of the century knives that have a lot of miles left in them and look near new, and I have some twenty year old Gomph knives that have been ground to the nub from improper sharpening techniques. Again in my opinion and experience, think twice about using stones and abracive papers on your fine cutters. The biggest caution if you do use a motorized shapening system is to beware your speed which builds heat, and heat kills your edge. The pros who use stone wheels also turn at slower speeds than most grinder motors. Best to all, GH Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted February 13, 2008 I know there are others with opinions that will differ from mine,What's new? But I highly caution folks from using griders and sand papers on these fine tools.Those who do professional sharpening usually have very fine stones that will be the exception,I have seen and do own tools that have seen better days way before their time. Many of you have heard the term 'strop, strop strop'. I agree that when you get a new cutting tool it may need an inicial edge put on it and therefore need the use of high abracives. But ones you have a anagle and a good edge all you should need is a good strop. I started out using a lace that I pinned to the top of my cutting table but it too often would wiggle just enough to make it hard to a series of good passes. I later took a 4" board and glued a piece of skirting to it. Used my gouge to make a set of 'beeds' that fit the sizes of my edgers. I apply rouge to them and begin stropping. As Marlon said dragging way from the cutting edge(same as stropping a swivel knife) once I feel I have a sufficient stropped edge I use the lace on my cutting table to strop the reverse side of the edger lightly to polish off the bur that is created by the stropping on the other side. It has also been my experience that using a buffing wheel will round the clean edge you just put on your edger.Take care there. What I am calling our 'fine' tools are the tools we use for finish work, how ever I do own some near turn of the century knives that have a lot of miles left in them and look near new, and I have some twenty year old Gomph knives that have been ground to the nub from improper sharpening techniques. Again in my opinion and experience, think twice about using stones and abracive papers on your fine cutters. The biggest caution if you do use a motorized shapening system is to beware your speed which builds heat, and heat kills your edge. The pros who use stone wheels also turn at slower speeds than most grinder motors. Best to all, GH Hide, I just want to clarify. I NEVER use a stone wheel on my tools. Just the felt wheel with rouge. I know Kevin mentioned he does, but I'm afraid of damaging the temper, or taking off too much material, so I just don't do it. I used to never use sandpaper either, but after taking a class from Peter Main, I think differently now. I figure if it's good for him it should be good for me. I hit my swivel knife on it for about 2 strokes, then on a rouge loaded card (not leather) and I'm good to go. May be a difference of opinion, but that's ok, that's why were here...to learn. I only use the sandpaper if my tool needs to be sharpened. The second paragraph of my post says if you just need a hone...use the rouge. I do like the idea of the skirting with the beads. Good idea. I may be using that in the future. Marlon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Report post Posted February 13, 2008 Marlon, Oh my no, I rounded off the end of my finest oilstone, which might be 2" , just a couple strokes on that and a LIGHT buff. I don't even do that very often. Kevin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted February 13, 2008 My fault Kevin, I read it wrong. Sorry about that? I know I'm not good enough to use a motorized stone. Marlon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geoffc Report post Posted February 21, 2008 I use the rouge also, but got a nice set of ceramic stones, 200,400,600,800 in round, flat and square from Garrett Wade about 6 months ago..these are about 4-5' long and work quite well.. geoff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
