esantoro Report post Posted January 8, 2008 (edited) Due to the need to find a more efficient and cost effective way to make straps and belts, I've gone ahead and ordered a Jerry's Stripper from Siegel's of California. Fortune had it that Siegels had them on Friday special at $23 , and extra blades (5 pack) $1.50. I've decided to go with this rather than a draw gauge. Anyone have experience with a Jerry's Stripper? Ed Edited January 8, 2008 by esantoro Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolvenstien Report post Posted January 8, 2008 Got a link? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
esantoro Report post Posted January 8, 2008 Got a link? https://www.siegelofca.com/itemdetail.asp?prodid=475 I like that one is able to use both hands to manipulate the leather while pulling it through the jerry stripper. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolvenstien Report post Posted January 8, 2008 thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Randyc Report post Posted January 8, 2008 Ed, Once you get your Jerry Stripper, I and I'm sure a few others would like to know how it works out for you. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Report post Posted January 9, 2008 Due to the need to find a more efficient and cost effective way to make straps and belts, I've gone ahead and ordered a Jerry's Stripper from Siegel's of California. Fortune had it that Siegels had them on Friday special at $23 , and extra blades (5 pack) $1.50.I've decided to go with this rather than a draw gauge. Anyone have experience with a Jerry's Stripper? Ed I have one but haven't used it in quite awhile. When I did, it worked fine. I clamped it down and pulled deerskin into fringe with it. You can set up different spacings with it as well. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jordan Report post Posted January 9, 2008 Saw one at tandy the other day to much for my pocketbook right now. They hadn't had any for a few months due to a supply problem, I was told if I did buy one to stock up on blades as they are hard to get sometimes. I think it was made to do mainly fringe but it looks like it would do straps also. I just use the wooden strap cutter they sell works ok for low volume work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
esantoro Report post Posted January 9, 2008 Saw one at tandy the other day to much for my pocketbook right now. They hadn't had any for a few months due to a supply problem, I was told if I did buy one to stock up on blades as they are hard to get sometimes. I think it was made to do mainly fringe but it looks like it would do straps also. I just use the wooden strap cutter they sell works ok for low volume work. My wooden strap cutter works fine for veg tan and other stiff leather, but not so well for chrome tanned leather. Siegel's does have the blades for a fair price, and I've had good luck sharpening my box cutter blades, which look similar. i'll keep you all posted. es Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whinewine Report post Posted January 9, 2008 Saw one at tandy the other day to much for my pocketbook right now. They hadn't had any for a few months due to a supply problem, I was told if I did buy one to stock up on blades as they are hard to get sometimes. I think it was made to do mainly fringe but it looks like it would do straps also. I just use the wooden strap cutter they sell works ok for low volume work. Jordan: AC Moore stocks the exacto brand utility blades (utility knife blades, NOT the ones you use in the standard exacto-type knives) that are a lot cheaper than what everyone else sells them for. They are the EXACT same size as the ones that fit the jerry stripper (the other utility knife blades out there at hardware stores are all too big, as everyone who has a jerry stripper knows). Also, sign up at www.acmoore.com & you'll get weekly coupons on email for use in their stores. Mostly, they are 40% off on any single non-sale item, but they often have 50% off coupons, too. It's a good deal, & I've also used the coupons to buy Tandy stuff that they have in stock, too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JREIndustries Report post Posted January 10, 2008 Due to the need to find a more efficient and cost effective way to make straps and belts, I've gone ahead and ordered a Jerry's Stripper from Siegel's of California. Fortune had it that Siegels had them on Friday special at $23 , and extra blades (5 pack) $1.50.I've decided to go with this rather than a draw gauge. Anyone have experience with a Jerry's Stripper? Ed Ed, I have had very good luck with mine. Mostly used for cutting 1-1/2" belt blanks out of 8-9oz veg tan. I also use it for 1/2" strips used for welts in making some custom sheaths. The key I found was to start with a straight edge and keep it aligned with the fence on the stripper. Spen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
esantoro Report post Posted January 10, 2008 Ed,I have had very good luck with mine. Mostly used for cutting 1-1/2" belt blanks out of 8-9oz veg tan. I also use it for 1/2" strips used for welts in making some custom sheaths. The key I found was to start with a straight edge and keep it aligned with the fence on the stripper. Spen Thanks , Spen. I'm glad to hear it works well. I've been thinking it wold be much better for me to use my aluminum templates to cut out a 5.25" x 48" section of leather and strip off 1.25"-wide straps and belts from that instead of taking a draw gauge or tandy strap cutter to a whole side. ed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JREIndustries Report post Posted January 10, 2008 Thanks , Spen. I'm glad to hear it works well. I've been thinking it wold be much better for me to use my aluminum templates to cut out a 5.25" x 48" section of leather and strip off 1.25"-wide straps and belts from that instead of taking a draw gauge or tandy strap cutter to a whole side.ed Just about impossible to pull/push a full side threw it. For a 1-1/2" belt I cut the length needed X 3-1/2". Gives me enough to get 2 strips plus a 1/2 strip cleanly. It's easier to start about 1" off an edge and plunge the blade. But you can start right at the edge with a sharp blade. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
esantoro Report post Posted January 10, 2008 Just about impossible to pull/push a full side threw it. For a 1-1/2" belt I cut the length needed X 3-1/2". Gives me enough to get 2 strips plus a 1/2 strip cleanly.It's easier to start about 1" off an edge and plunge the blade. But you can start right at the edge with a sharp blade. When using the tandy strap cutter, i usually trim the top of a side of leather so there is one long, even edge and then use the cutter to take off individual straps of the width i need. Thicker and firmer leather comes off the most easily. 5/6 oz chrome tan requires some edge trimming when I glue the two layers together prior to stitching. I'm hoping the the jerry stripper will be work a bit better. I have been wondering about how much extra leather I should allow with the Jerry stripper. For example, for 5/6 chrome tan, I need six 1.25" wide strips, each about 50" long, for a shoulder strap and two bag straps. For my bag gussets I have aluminum templates of 4", 5.25", and 9.25" widths. I've been thinking it would be nice to use the 5.25" template to cut off a section and then run that through the jerry stripper to get 4 1.25" wide straps. I would have a .25" wide or a bit narrower strip left over, depending on how accurate my cuts are. I'm pretty anal about trying to save as much leather as possible. My main question out of all this is a .25" margin ok, or should I play it safe and have a .5" margin? ed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JREIndustries Report post Posted January 10, 2008 When using the tandy strap cutter, i usually trim the top of a side of leather so there is one long, even edge and then use the cutter to take off individual straps of the width i need. Thicker and firmer leather comes off the most easily. 5/6 oz chrome tan requires some edge trimming when I glue the two layers together prior to stitching. I'm hoping the the jerry stripper will be work a bit better. I have been wondering about how much extra leather I should allow with the Jerry stripper. For example, for 5/6 chrome tan, I need six 1.25" wide strips, each about 50" long, for a shoulder strap and two bag straps. For my bag gussets I have aluminum templates of 4", 5.25", and 9.25" widths. I've been thinking it would be nice to use the 5.25" template to cut off a section and then run that through the jerry stripper to get 4 1.25" wide straps. I would have a .25" wide or a bit narrower strip left over, depending on how accurate my cuts are. I'm pretty anal about trying to save as much leather as possible. My main question out of all this is a .25" margin ok, or should I play it safe and have a .5" margin? ed Might want to leave yourself at least 1/2" with that size of leather. At least the first few times you use it. However, I was just thinking that you might be able to leave the leather on the table and move the Jerry Stripper instead of the other way around. Never tried that, but it might work for a large enough chunk of skin.... Maybe cut a small piece of wood to mount the stripper on and use as a handle?? Just thinking outloud... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
esantoro Report post Posted January 15, 2008 i got the jerry stripper yesterday. I little more fragile than expected. Smaller ,too, but this i like. I think this tool will work very nicely for chrome tanned leather especially. I'll try tonight to get 3 1.25" wide strips out of a 4" wide template cut, which leaves me a waste margin of .25", but I think it's doable. I think the tandy strap cutter will work fine for all the stiffer and thicker leather. Ed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
esantoro Report post Posted January 15, 2008 $1.49 for a five pack of blades for this tool seems a good price (siegel of ca). The blades seem a bit smaller that regular utility knife blades, but all the angles seem the same. I've tried www.acmoore.com but cannot locate the blades. ed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whinewine Report post Posted January 15, 2008 $1.49 for a five pack of blades for this tool seems a good price (siegel of ca). The blades seem a bit smaller that regular utility knife blades, but all the angles seem the same.I've tried www.acmoore.com but cannot locate the blades. ed xacto's blade number is #292. If acmoore has a display of exacto products, like the different knives, knife sets, blades, saw blades & so on, it should be in it. Ask the manager (the employees don't particularly care, for the most part, & would rather say 'we ain't got none a them' rather than actually try to be helpful). The store in Altoona, PA does carry them, so you can tell the manager that & see if he can carry them (if Altoona can carry them, surely there are other stores that do, too). And yes, siegel's price is a very good one (but they do require a $75 minimum order) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
esantoro Report post Posted January 16, 2008 All right. I've put the JS to work. Not a bad tool if you can get it on sale, but I'm not all that impressed. It could have been made a bit better. Using standard utility knife blades would be a start, as the blade would stand up higher, creating more of a barrier to help one guide the leather through. I used my aluminum gusset templates to cut off 2 4" wide strips along the top of the shoulder. i then ran one of these three times through the JS. The first two strips went fine, but slow going with using both hands to manipulate the leather through the JS. When it came to the third strip, I had perhaps slightly less than .25" of a waste margin, not enough firmness to provide solid and consistent slicing of the third 1.25" wide strip. Perhaps having a .5" margin would have been better. With the second 4" wide strip, I thought I'd try another approach to compare with the using the JS. This time I used a 1/8" thick by 1.25" wide by 51" long aluminum flat bar from which I cut my handle supports. I laid the flat bar on the edge of the 4" wide leather strip and carefully cut the strip off using a circular blade. This turned out to be the best method of all. Conclusion: nice to have the JS, but I'm boxing it up and putting it away for now. Someone ought to improve upon it. It wouldn't take much work. ed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonyc1 Report post Posted January 16, 2008 All right. I've put the JS to work. Not a bad tool if you can get it on sale, but I'm not all that impressed. It could have been made a bit better.Using standard utility knife blades would be a start, as the blade would stand up higher, creating more of a barrier to help one guide the leather through. I used my aluminum gusset templates to cut off 2 4" wide strips along the top of the shoulder. i then ran one of these three times through the JS. The first two strips went fine, but slow going with using both hands to manipulate the leather through the JS. When it came to the third strip, I had perhaps slightly less than .25" of a waste margin, not enough firmness to provide solid and consistent slicing of the third 1.25" wide strip. Perhaps having a .5" margin would have been better. With the second 4" wide strip, I thought I'd try another approach to compare with the using the JS. This time I used a 1/8" thick by 1.25" wide by 51" long aluminum flat bar from which I cut my handle supports. I laid the flat bar on the edge of the 4" wide leather strip and carefully cut the strip off using a circular blade. This turned out to be the best method of all. Conclusion: nice to have the JS, but I'm boxing it up and putting it away for now. Someone ought to improve upon it. It wouldn't take much work. ed I agree Ed. I bought one of these app 30 years ago and it wasn't worth 20c then. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Romey Report post Posted January 16, 2008 I have to chuckle cause i have a good friend names jerry that used to be a male stripper back in our youth. I was glad you posted the link , was afraid he was selling himself now. Now that its straightened out , carry on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Drac Report post Posted January 16, 2008 hate to hear it didn't really work for you, but glad you let us know since I'm sure most of us have thought about getting one of those (I know I have). I have a 2" by 72" yellow painted measuring stick I got at home depot for about 15 bucks for doing all me long cuts with. just scraped the the paint off along one edge so me rotary cutter wouldn't catch it and it would actually be straight since it was painted by dipping. I've got a low table for working on so I can put a foot on one end to hold it in place and a hand on the other and cut away! for measuring from the edge of the leather I use a 24" "easy rule" in the middle, then check the ends while I hold the long one in place to make sure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolvenstien Report post Posted January 16, 2008 hate to hear it didn't really work for you, but glad you let us know since I'm sure most of us have thought about getting one of those (I know I have). I have a 2" by 72" yellow painted measuring stick I got at home depot for about 15 bucks for doing all me long cuts with. just scraped the the paint off along one edge so me rotary cutter wouldn't catch it and it would actually be straight since it was painted by dipping. I've got a low table for working on so I can put a foot on one end to hold it in place and a hand on the other and cut away! for measuring from the edge of the leather I use a 24" "easy rule" in the middle, then check the ends while I hold the long one in place to make sure. Drac, since you do alot of stripping for your floggers and what not... do you tape the back of the leather to keep it from stretching? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Drac Report post Posted January 16, 2008 wolvie, nope. I cut towards the base instead of away from it and use a 65mm blade fiskars rolling cutter opened to the first cutting size. after getting close to the base line (a scratch line 1 inch from the edge) I stop. once I've cut all the strips, I go back with an exacto blade and finish the cut to the line. um... any of that make any sense? actually been thinking about posting a step-by-step for floggers in the adult section. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted January 16, 2008 Hey Ed, i was wanting to tell you to save your $$$$$ on the J S, it will not work like you want it to. and i knew that you would not beleive me. I know how much you really go for that R & D. i have bought several alum strips from 1/2 "- to 1 -1/12" and i can get the width of strap i need on soft leather. I do use the ORIGINAL WOODEN Strap cutter for fitm leather. when i am cutting strips of soft leather i will clamp one edge of the metal to my bench top and there will be no slipage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paulanator Report post Posted March 19, 2008 Hey Drac, I have made a couple of floggers and similar implements, and would love to see a step by step of your process if you don't mind sharing. I took photos on the last one I made, maybe I can do the same. Mine has lasted for about 6 years, and has pretty intense and frequent use.. I mean display usage.... Also, am I missing the adult section??? could not find it.. Paul wolvie, nope. I cut towards the base instead of away from it and use a 65mm blade fiskars rolling cutter opened to the first cutting size. after getting close to the base line (a scratch line 1 inch from the edge) I stop. once I've cut all the strips, I go back with an exacto blade and finish the cut to the line. um... any of that make any sense? actually been thinking about posting a step-by-step for floggers in the adult section. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites