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Posted (edited)

Congratulations on the new machine!  I'm not sure if you're saying the belt slips in the pulley, or if the pulley turns and nothing else does.

A - If the belt is slipping - yep, you know. Tighten it.

B - More likely, you're saying the latter. If that's the case, I don't know anything about that machine, but I'd be looking for a safety clutch somewhere that needs a good smacking.

I'd agree, it has to be a simple thing.

[EDIT] Hang on - You said "...pulley stops and the belt spins". Seems like the belt has to be loose, doesn't it?

[EDIT AGAIN] Round 3 - will it hand wheel through full revolutions??  If not, I'd be looking for something binding up in the bobbin area.  Maybe something shook loose during transport.

Edited by AlZilla

“Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.”
- Voltaire

“Republics decline into democracies and democracies degenerate into despotisms.”
- Aristotle

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Posted
13 minutes ago, AlZilla said:

Congratulations on the new machine!  I'm not sure if you're saying the belt slips in the pulley, or if the pulley turns and nothing else does.

A - If the belt is slipping - yep, you know. Tighten it.

B - More likely, you're saying the latter. If that's the case, I don't know anything about that machine, but I'd be looking for a safety clutch somewhere that needs a good smacking.

I'd agree, it has to be a simple thing.

The belt slips inside of the pulley, as in it isn't turning the pulley but the belt spins.

As far as tightening the belt,I dont see any tensioners for it to tighten.

Posted
5 minutes ago, Spicytacoman said:

The belt slips inside of the pulley, as in it isn't turning the pulley but the belt spins.

As far as tightening the belt,I dont see any tensioners for it to tighten.

The motor mount should be on curved slotted supports.  Loosen the screws just enough so that you can move the motor and push/pull the motor until you have more tension on the belt.  Probably the screws weren't tight enough and they moved during transport.

And congrats on the machine!  I hope it serves you well.

 

Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted

Post a photo showing the motor and floor pedal. Every motor I've seen on an industrial sewing table has a bolt adjustment for raising or lowering the motor in its mount. There are usually locking nuts over and under the bracket the bolt feeds through. Set the motor so there is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deflection of the v-belt when the machine is upright in its operating position.

Do try turning the hand wheel before tightening the belt. If it's hard to turn without the belt, something has gotten jammed up inside the machine. It could simply be a thread birds nest from not pulling the top thread out of the needle and the needle went down from the machine being moved around. If this happened, you'll have to pull all the thread out of the shuttle around the bobbin case before you try powering on the machine again.

This birds nesting is caused by not holding onto the starting threads, especially the top needle thread. Industrial machines are fairly easy to jam up if the top thread gets pulled down and into the shuttle in the wrong manner. When moving or even tilting the head, pull the top thread out of the needle so it can't get jammed into the shuttle and bobbin case.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted
28 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

Post a photo showing the motor and floor pedal. Every motor I've seen on an industrial sewing table has a bolt adjustment for raising or lowering the motor in its mount. There are usually locking nuts over and under the bracket the bolt feeds through. Set the motor so there is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deflection of the v-belt when the machine is upright in its operating position.

Do try turning the hand wheel before tightening the belt. If it's hard to turn without the belt, something has gotten jammed up inside the machine. It could simply be a thread birds nest from not pulling the top thread out of the needle and the needle went down from the machine being moved around. If this happened, you'll have to pull all the thread out of the shuttle around the bobbin case before you try powering on the machine again.

This birds nesting is caused by not holding onto the starting threads, especially the top needle thread. Industrial machines are fairly easy to jam up if the top thread gets pulled down and into the shuttle in the wrong manner. When moving or even tilting the head, pull the top thread out of the needle so it can't get jammed into the shuttle and bobbin case.

So the thing is I dropped it downward more to put more pressure and that seemed to help the situation. Have thread tension issues im working through now with looping under the bottom so im slowly tightening it until the looping stops. I think im almost set to start sewing! 

1681938244964409418012687242758.jpg

Posted
14 minutes ago, Spicytacoman said:

So the thing is I dropped it downward more to put more pressure and that seemed to help the situation. Have thread tension issues im working through now with looping under the bottom so im slowly tightening it until the looping stops. I think im almost set to start sewing! 

1681938244964409418012687242758.jpg

Funny that it was sewing before you moved it and now you have looping.

Are you using the same thread, thread size, needle size, etc as when you tested it? Sewing the same material and thickness you tested?

 

“Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.”
- Voltaire

“Republics decline into democracies and democracies degenerate into despotisms.”
- Aristotle

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Posted
7 minutes ago, AlZilla said:

Funny that it was sewing before you moved it and now you have looping.

Are you using the same thread, thread size, needle size, etc as when you tested it? Sewing the same material and thickness you tested?

 

Lol right!?

Now my thread is slightly thicket than the one he used but barely. Im using #138 not sure the one he had but it is a tiny bit thinner.

But the amount I had to lower those nuts to keep that belt from slipping was like 3/4 of an in which I thought was excessive but what do I know.. lol

Posted
6 minutes ago, Spicytacoman said:

Lol right!?

Now my thread is slightly thicket than the one he used but barely. Im using #138 not sure the one he had but it is a tiny bit thinner.

But the amount I had to lower those nuts to keep that belt from slipping was like 3/4 of an in which I thought was excessive but what do I know.. lol

You've got a big learning curve ahead of you!  And I see you well on your way to being thankful you got a machine with safety clutch.  It's far too easy to forget to hold the thread back when you start to stitch and way too easy to get a thread jam on the under side or worse, in and around the bobbin.  And adjusting thread tension is a skill that some of us (pointing at myself here) had a hard time developing.  Changing brands of thread, thread sizes, and yes, even color often means that thread tension needs to be readjusted.  Do you know what the drop test is for bobbin tension?  You will also find that if you have proper thread tension with a white thread (of any size) and you then switch to the same size/brand with a black thread, you will usually need to readjust tension.  You'll do that by eye and by feel, which as I said, is a skill that needs to be learned.

Is v138 the thread size you plan to use most of the time?  And what needle are you using with it?  And what are you sewing?  Meaning do you use a 135x16 or 135x17 needle in the correct size?  All that has to be learned.  School of hard knocks coming right up!

 

Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, MtlBiker said:

You've got a big learning curve ahead of you!  And I see you well on your way to being thankful you got a machine with safety clutch.  It's far too easy to forget to hold the thread back when you start to stitch and way too easy to get a thread jam on the under side or worse, in and around the bobbin.  And adjusting thread tension is a skill that some of us (pointing at myself here) had a hard time developing.  Changing brands of thread, thread sizes, and yes, even color often means that thread tension needs to be readjusted.  Do you know what the drop test is for bobbin tension?  You will also find that if you have proper thread tension with a white thread (of any size) and you then switch to the same size/brand with a black thread, you will usually need to readjust tension.  You'll do that by eye and by feel, which as I said, is a skill that needs to be learned.

Is v138 the thread size you plan to use most of the time?  And what needle are you using with it?  And what are you sewing?  Meaning do you use a 135x16 or 135x17 needle in the correct size?  All that has to be learned.  School of hard knocks coming right up!

 

I think that is the main thread size I will use, im currently working for the last 2 hours of my shift but this is what I found in the packaging. Not sure if this is what is currently on the machine at the moment however.

That needle should work well for leqther and #138 right?

16819497610472578824173701873427.jpg

Edited by Spicytacoman

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