Sewing machine suggestions

[AlZilla]

That should be the one.  Here's a helpful chart:

https://tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

[MtlBiker]

50 minutes ago, Spicytacoman said:

I think that is the main thread size I will use, im currently working for the last 2 hours of my shift but this is what I found in the packaging. Not sure if this is what is currently on the machine at the moment however.

That needle should work well for leqther and #138 right?

That's not a leather needle.  You need a 135x16 (DPx16) for leather.  The 140 (size 22) should be about right for your 138 thread.

[Spicytacoman]

40 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

That's not a leather needle.  You need a 135x16 (DPx16) for leather.  The 140 (size 22) should be about right for your 138 thread.

Where can I find information on needle sizes and what they are used for? I know wiz has had to have made a guide somewhere! I couldn't find anything on Google.

What brand for industrial needles do  you all recommend for these new needles? I had no idea..

I tried looking up 140 / 22 dp x16  and can't find some. Im seeing 135?

Edited April 20, 2023 by Spicytacoman

[Spicytacoman]

6 hours ago, AlZilla said:

Congratulations on the new machine!  I'm not sure if you're saying the belt slips in the pulley, or if the pulley turns and nothing else does.

A - If the belt is slipping - yep, you know. Tighten it.

B - More likely, you're saying the latter. If that's the case, I don't know anything about that machine, but I'd be looking for a safety clutch somewhere that needs a good smacking.

I'd agree, it has to be a simple thing.

[EDIT] Hang on - You said "...pulley stops and the belt spins". Seems like the belt has to be loose, doesn't it?

[EDIT AGAIN] Round 3 - will it hand wheel through full revolutions??  If not, I'd be looking for something binding up in the bobbin area.  Maybe something shook loose during transport.

It handcrank sews fine. To be honest, I believe it has to do with the needle. When there is no material under the needle, it runs just fine. I guess it is the needle. Handcranking it with the material is doable however I do feel resistance.

I guess since the original thread was thinner and the sellers house it was easier to run when I first tried it before transporting?

Edited April 20, 2023 by Spicytacoman

[AlZilla]

Try sewing cloth. Maybe jamming the wrong needle in there is causing the thread to stay when the tension arm is trying to pull it up, causing your looping.

I get screwed up on needles.  I have a machine that uses TYPE 16 needles and 2 that use the same 135x16 as your machine.  

Picking the right machine was just warm up for the real challenge - getting the right needle!

[Wizcrafts]

5 hours ago, Spicytacoman said:

Sorry wiz! I forgot you wanted to see the foot pedal too!

Make sure that the floor pedal isn't bottoming out hard against the floor in the idle position. The two rods with the coupler are used to adjust the idle position. Set it so there is a little gap above the floor in the off position.

I have the same motor on my Singer 211G156 walking foot machine, and on my Techsew 2700. I like the rotary switch to set the top speed.

[Wizcrafts]

2 hours ago, Spicytacoman said:

Where can I find information on needle sizes and what they are used for? I know wiz has had to have made a guide somewhere! I couldn't find anything on Google.

The best needle and thread combination chart is on the Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines website.

[Spicytacoman]

1 hour ago, Wizcrafts said:

Make sure that the floor pedal isn't bottoming out hard against the floor in the idle position. The two rods with the coupler are used to adjust the idle position. Set it so there is a little gap above the floor in the off position.

I have the same motor on my Singer 211G156 walking foot machine, and on my Techsew 2700. I like the rotary switch to set the top speed.

Really? So not like a gas pedal position? Figured it would be easier to adjust pressure this way. So you mean to have it as flat as possible?

[Wizcrafts]

26 minutes ago, Spicytacoman said:

Really? So not like a gas pedal position? Figured it would be easier to adjust pressure this way. So you mean to have it as flat as possible?

No, that's not what I meant. It looked to me like the front edge of the pedal is hard in contact with the floor. It needs to miss the floor in the off/idle position. Forget I ever mentioned it. It's an optical illusion. Set the angle where your ankle is comfortable. Just make sure it is adjusted so it lets the motor be completely off when the front is all the way down. If the leading edge actually hits the floor, the motor will be partially engaged when you want it off. That's what I was talking about. It should have the back end up so you don't stress your ankle.

[MtlBiker]

11 hours ago, Spicytacoman said:

Where can I find information on needle sizes and what they are used for? I know wiz has had to have made a guide somewhere! I couldn't find anything on Google.

What brand for industrial needles do  you all recommend for these new needles? I had no idea..

I tried looking up 140 / 22 dp x16  and can't find some. Im seeing 135?

You've been given a great link about needle sizes.  What you should know that your "DPx17" is exactly what "135x17" is.  Just a different way to express the same thing.  That refers to the TYPE of needle used in your machine.  Also the "140" is just another way (Metric) to say size "22" (US). 

So, you need a 135x16 needle (in the right size) for leather and a 135x17 needle for everything else.  And in either of those, you need a #22 size (140) for your 138 thread.

A great source for buying needles and other sewing things is Wawak.  Especially when they have their sales (often!). 

As far as needle brands go, many folks have their favorites but I think that Schmetz, Organ, Groz-Beckert are all good.   Needles are cheap (especially from Wawak when on sale) and you should probably buy some size 22, 21 and maybe 23 and other sizes if you will use other than 138 thread.  And you should get the leather needles (135x16) if you're sewing leather.  And realize that needles need to be replaced often.  Depending on how much you're sewing, maybe as often as every day.  Or every 8 hours of sewing.  Or when the thread starts to fray when going through the eye of the needle.

Thread is another thing... I strongly suggest you stick with well-known brands and stay away from the cheap stuff.  And go for the large spools (one pound) rather than the smaller ones to minimize the "curl" effect.

Hope this helps.

Good luck!
 

Edited April 20, 2023 by MtlBiker