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Posted

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted
4 hours ago, karmazine said:

Also I have possibility to buy used but fully working Pfaff 335 H2 for very modest cost (210 Eur),

You may want to first compare the parts list for the H2 and H3 and see what parts are the same that you need. It maybe cheaper to buy the H2 just for the parts rather then buying new parts.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Posted

You are not the only one that writes to me for advise, I do the best I can on my time off.

I this is the only 345 H3 partlist I got. That's the only one I've seen. I see that the part # 91-010 378-45 isn't in the document. That's because the pdf is newer or older that the machine, they've changed the foot lift arm and use the parts in the pic below instead. If the document are older or newer than our machines, I don't know.

I doubt your able to find any of these parts new anyway. That means you have to search for the # 91-010 378-45 instead. If your going to use the other parts in the partlist below, you also have to change the arm. Alternately drill and tap for the new part. You just got to get what you find. All the geared levers in the pic 1 isn't necessary, don't use time on them; just run a chain directly from the end of the arm you have to a pedal. If you find them it's a bonus. The other parts you need are in the part list. In the world of industrial sewing machines, machines get changed all the time. Part lists gets updated by the producer only when it's supported. This machine is now obsolete, they don't support it any more and they're not obligated stock part for it anymore. Today Pfaff doesn't have anything for these of machines, the only ones that has something for them are companies like College I.s.m. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-books/pfaff-parts-books.html (They have pdf, aftermarket parts like hooks, feet's and common wear part)

When it comes to what feed dog it is in your machine, that's depending of those last numbers in your subclass number. It's the same feed dog in mine.  You best hope is to find a donor machine, non of the parts your looking for are made anymore. It shouldn't be to difficult to make these parts, the hand lifter and the angle iron can easily be made from a piece of flat iron, just som cutting drilling and filing. I believe your goal are to get it sewing, not get it in showroom condition. If your lucky to find some parts, be prepared to modify them to fit. That's how we all have to do it. Maybe you find something in Poland, if anywhere in the world that would be the best place to look yes. 

Good luck

Tor

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Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

Posted

Here are som pics from back if machine. Quality is what expected when there's limit space behind it, Im not moving it out from the wall to get better pictures. This is the needle plate this came with, the binder parts are extras.

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Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

Posted

Here are the binder parts. The binder plate attachment to the right in pic 2, I've made myself. The syncro plate in pic 3 is Pfaff. Pfaff quoted me these parts  some 10 years back and they wanted 1100 USD for the needle plate, feed dog and syncro plate. That's was about 10 years ago, imagine what they will cost today ( if they're available) Anyway, A friend gifted me the feed dog, the small binder and the back foot. Binders, front foot are Kwokhing. These parts where available then, I've haven't had the need for anymore Pfaff parts, so I don't know what's available today. Older Pfaff parts are very expensive, that's why I brought up the donor machine option. It could be that many of the parts you need are the same on other Pfaff model's. Old 335, 145 and 545 have the same upper arm, I believe some of the postbed models also have.

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Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

Posted
1 hour ago, kgg said:

You may want to first compare the parts list for the H2 and H3 and see what parts are the same that you need. It maybe cheaper to buy the H2 just for the parts rather then buying new parts.

kgg

I agree, I've been saying the same thing. If the country his searching in was all other than Poland. I would say; save your phone fare. It could be he finds something there. Otherwise buy that H2, that's would be the cheapest option. depended of how far it has to be shipped of course. Older Pfaff parts are expensive and he could use much from such a machine. 

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted

Hello Tor,

Thank you very much. I did not wanted to push you into complex reply (or into anything at all! It is your kindnes that no one can demand.). I am very grateful!

In your former post you were asking if I have 345 H3 parts list it seemed to me that you do have a different parts list than me (I thought that what I have is standard 345 non H3 specific list).

Therefore it seemed to me that I am reading data from "wrong" document.

Because the Poles are "sewing superpower" (at least compared to the Czech republic) I expect at least one of the two companies could have something. I have been told they both specialize in old machines. But situation when I buy costy parts that do not fit at all is obviously not desirable. Of coarse — my machine = my risk. :) 

 

I uderstand that for that antique machine I would be lucky to get anything at all. I am not hunting for original/new parts. Donor machine is ideal if it contains enough usable parts.

I am more than ready to adjust or even manufacture many things. The foot/presser hand lever is ok, I plan to cut it with laser from sheet metal. Much easier would be to get its photo and dimensions. I think I will be able to get dimensions from Pfaff 545 (hopefuly H3) which owns my online friend. Even easier it is with the tension release pin. I only need the dimensions, and even If I do not find them I can try it longer and grind.

KGG> Problem of comparing H2 vs H3 parts is a bit complicated. Since we do not have 345 parts list specific to respective H models I have to stick to 545 and other models parts lists where I can look up the part numbers of the particular H model. I would be easy in person, but that is something I can only dream about.. :-D

My current understanding is that H2 has lower lift, so the lifter handle (91-10 735-15) and Lshaped connecting part 91-010 738-45 (both from pfaff 545 list) will have different dimensions since the feet lift is different.

The H2 I was offered is relatively far away from me. And most important it is 335, not 345. So for now I would only possibly use the arm cover (91-10 617-75/995) and the bed extension. Since I do not need to keep everything original I will try to weld these two parts. Some of the other parts could be found usable in the future, so I am still considering buying the 335 H2 donor (I would also feel a bit guilty to salvage parts from machine head which works nicely, but that's life... :))

 

Thank you for the pictures. There are few minor different details, but your machine looks very similar to mine.

The binder adendum is also useful. Plan to try it in the future, but first I want to run the machine as is.

 

Thank you again!

 

 

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Posted

Sorry Trox, I forgot to reply to all of the hints..

On 6/8/2023 at 4:37 PM, Trox said:

The presser bar lifting lever/arm in your pic isn't the right one for the 345-H3

You mean that 31-010 735-15 ? It is from the 345 catalogue, I dont get it..

OR you mean Lshaped bar tension release linkage: 91-010 738-45 ? Since it is not in the 345 catalogue, I looked this up from the 545 H3. That is wrong?

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Posted
17 hours ago, Trox said:

I see that the part # 91-010 378-45 isn't in the document.

You mean 91-010 738-45? That is the one from 545 H3 catalogue

 

18 hours ago, Trox said:

If your going to use the other parts in the partlist below, you also have to change the arm.

 

lever_exchgange.jpg

Posted (edited)
On 6/8/2023 at 12:43 AM, karmazine said:

D) The arm cover and bed extension are broken. If I am not able to buy replacements I consider welding them. I have stick electrodes for cast iron or maybe is better to brass braze it to introduce less heat / warping? Since both are easily undoable from the machine I can pre and post heat them.

I’m more familiar with brass/bronze brazing so that’s what I’ve used in the past.  After beveling the joint and grinding out any small cracks, you’ll want to heat the area well to burn out oil that is hiding in the pores and small cracks you didn’t catch originally, then finish prepping the area before fluxing.

In general there is no big advantage to either brazing brass/bronze or welding with nickel welding rods - I’d use what you’re most familiar with.   On larger parts there is an advantage to welding with nickel since gas welding setups have a hard time producing enough heat in deep grooves and inside corners. 

Sewing machines are often made with ductile iron so it can bend a little before cracking - before sinking a lot of time and effort into fixing the small bits, I’d carefully check the alignment of the arm - it might not be worth fixing if you have to cut the arm off and reattach to fix an alignment problem due to a bend.

edit:  What do you mean by bed extension is broken?   Maybe I just missed that in the photos.

Edited by DonInReno

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