Are handmade watch straps better than mass produced? sometimes..

[Danne]

First, I need to clarify that I'm no expert on making watch straps, but I have spent many years analyzing straps, done prototypes, and I feel confident in saying that I can make high quality watch straps. (And these are my opinions, and if you have another opinion, I'm open to hearing it)

The biggest problem (in my opinion) when it comes to making straps, is to find a good balance between durability and comfort. It's not hard to make a durable strap, it's not hard to make a comfortable strap either. A first thought might be "Yes, it take a while to figure out a construction method with a good balance between durability and comfort" but it's not that simple, because it all depends on the type of leather used, and the thickness of the strap.

Let me take an example of a mistake, a very common one, something I've seen done by crafters/companies that sell or sold a lot of straps. (I will not mention anyone)

If we take a flat strap with top layer and lining layer, no padding.

Strap 1: Top layer - Cordovan or Bridle leather , lining - Zermatt/Vat alsavel/Swift/chevre goat or equivalent soft leather.

Strap 2: Top layer - Chevre goat or alligator, and the same lining as in my first example.

 

Both of these straps would be possible to reinforce, either with a dimensionally stable non-woven reinforcement, a nylon reinforcement, or a thinner top layer reinforced with a calf leather or high quality salpa (Like some versions from Salamander, I haven't use them, but looked at the properties as tear and tensile strength and elongation values) BUT strap 1 would still be a durable strap without reinforcement, especially with Cordovan. Strap 2 though, it would stretch at the lugs, it would stretch at the buckle pin hole, and the strap wouldn't hold up that long (One exception can be for a small watch, maybe a ladies watch sitting loose in the wrist) 

 

Let's instead say we make a thick strap (3-5mm in thickness) with padding, and we have to use a middle layer (either because the top or lining leather isn't available in thicker leather than let's say 1mm, or because the lug clearance doesn't allow thicker leather) now we need to find a new balance of materials depending on what leather we are using. If we use a soft leather that will stretch we still have to reinforce the folds at the lugs and at the buckle end of the shorter strap.

Should we reinforce the whole length of the strap? should we use a firm calf, a soft calf or a soft split calf as middle layer? what leather should we use as padding?

 

I believe the questions one have to ask is

1. What is the top leather and lining leathers properties, elongation, tear strength, and thickness of leather used.

2. How many layers of leather are used? how thick are the middle layer? is is suitable to use a soft split leather, a soft calf, a firm calf?

3. Do I use padding? is it full length padding? can I use soft split leather, a firmer more dense calf, do I need to shape the padding (which also will decide what leather to use.)

4. Should I reinforce the edges or the whole length? and what reinforcement? "Velodon" is a common reinforcement for watch straps, but Freudenberg Vildona and Jaeger 1961 is not the same, Vildona is way firmer (If we talk about the version with the same thickness around 0.2mm (SH-1220))

There seems to be a misconception out there, and it applies to some crafters and buyers. "If it's high quality top/full grain leather, then it's a high quality strap that will be durable" 

Just to clarify, I don't ask for construction advice here, I have figured out my construction methods, this was just to share my thoughts. Feel free to share your thoughts

Edited June 17, 2023 by Danne

[chuck123wapati]

my thoughts are ,, yes you are more of an expert than you realize.

The Top grain /full grain high quality thing has been a selling point for other leather products such as belts for example that buyers and crafters just use it without really knowing.  Its a marketing gimmik!

 I feel a watch strap is a highly misunderstood product in that no one really thinks about the construction of such a small article. they buy it for comfort, feel and the big variable question mark that no one can understand ( its just their "style").

Each type of leather obviously has different pros and cons so build techniques like reinforcement needs to change with those variables to produce a quality product which has both durability and comfort. 

[Klara]

Danne, aren't you the person who makes the straps with the glass-like edges? Then in my book you are an expert! 

I think that people should make their watch straps themselves (and for themselves, not for sale) and then they are free to experiment. I have tablet-woven them from handspun silk (not a good idea as silk does not stand up well to sweat),  and have now two different leather ones, which I had shown in this thread. They both work for me: The "ugly" one doesn't look so bad on the arm (and it's standing up very well to daily wear despite being of soft leather) and the uncomfortable one has gottem more comfortable as it has shaped itself to my arm (and water hasn't destroyed it either).

Based on these results I will continue to  make whatever takes my fancy - but only for me, not some unsuspecting customer.