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Singer 17-41 / presser foot swap = headache

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So the honeymoon phase with the Singer 17-41 is over and the pull my hair out phase has just begun. 

The trouble started right after I changed the original narrow presser foot to a large roller foot to use in shoemaking. 

I adjusted the roller, raised up the presser shaft and readjusted the tension.  The problem now is that the thread is getting jammed and cut up in the bobbin case assembly.  The top thread sets temporarily and then pulls out.  Eventually I have a birds nest in the assembly. Is there some other adjustment that needs to be made? 

On a different note; Is the thread supposed to have tension through the full motion of the take up lever ?  On my unit, the thread gets slack when the lever is on its way down.  Is this correct? 
 

Thanks for your help and patience! 

 

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Video of it sewing please.

glenn

Edited by shoepatcher
grammar

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Thank you. Great idea. Will take it tonight! 

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In most cases the stitching only skips occasionally with the roller foot on but I found that it happens very frequently when the wheel isn’t pushed in towards the needle all the way (to the point where it is scrapping the thread guide).  

The wheel also moves out of proper alignment when I turn the leather sharply. This leads to the missed stitches. 

I could braze the wheel in place which would solve the movement issue but would be an inconvenience.  I may just go back to the toe presser foot.  It was sewing perfectly. 

Any ideas would be appreciated! 

(I had to edit the video down)

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The roller feet I've had in the past had a spring that held them in position, and a screw to adjust the distance from the bottom of the wheel to the needle. I've found that they work best when the needle just misses the edge of the wheel. The farther away the wheel, the more the material/leather can lift with the ascending needle. This causes skipped stitches.

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4 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

The roller feet I've had in the past had a spring that held them in position, and a screw to adjust the distance from the bottom of the wheel to the needle. I've found that they work best when the needle just misses the edge of the wheel. The farther away the wheel, the more the material/leather can lift with the ascending needle. This causes skipped stitches.

:17:

I would also check the needle bar height (needle - hook timing). Could be that you have to lower the needle bar a tiny bit maybe just 1/4 - 1/2mm

Edited by Constabulary

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8 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

The farther away the wheel, the more the material/leather can lift with the ascending needle. This causes skipped stitches.

Thanks Wiz - This wheel also has the adjustment screw and spring.  The problem is that it moves around too much. I’m going to see if I can’t engineer a fix. Thanks for the insight. 
 

4 hours ago, Constabulary said:

I would also check the needle bar height (needle - hook timing)

Thanks Constabulary - I’ve been looking into that but I am a little hesitant because I don’t know what I’m doing and I don’t want to make a mess of it!  Can you recommend any videos?  Will research some more. 
 

As always, thanks for your responses! 

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No video that I know of but needle hook timing is very similar on most drop feed machines - however here is a Singer 17 manual. It also covers the 17-41

Singer 17-22.pdf

Edited by Constabulary

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2 hours ago, Constabulary said:

here is a Singer 17 manual. It also covers the 17-41

 

Many thanks Contabulary!  
I think I’ve figured out a work around that won’t interfere with normal operations.  Will post for posterity if it works out.  
 

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