Is there a difference between glycerine, yellow and white saddle soap?

[bruce johnson]

David,

Is that the same edge polyurethane that Bill Gomer used in his video? Where can it be bought in a decent quantity? I can justify gallons, but anything larger is overkill for me. Thanks.

[esantoro]

Bruce,

I read on ron's tool's website that he sells an edging/burnishing compound.

Ed

[David Genadek]

Bruce,

I'm not sure what Bill used but it is highly likely it was the same stuff. It is made by Dyo Chemical company however, Dyo recently blew up and I see John Mills ,the owner, has pulled the web site. I talked to him after the exsplosion and at that point he was trying to keep things going. He worked out a deal with LCI to make the product so I guess that would be the place to start. Your looking for Dyo Poly Cote Neutral. You can get it in colors too but I prefer to dye and rub it the traditional way and just use it as a edge finish. Dyo used to sell in Gallons but it has been so long since I have ordered anything other than 5s I can't say for sure. I would think a distributer would sell Gallons if they won't sell direct. In fact the shoe finders would probable carry in quarts. It is not cheap but it goes a long way.

David Genadek

[bruce johnson]

Ed,

I can't believe I left that one off. I bought a quart a few years ago, and used it up pretty quickly. I was in my experiemental mode then and tried other stuff, and finally replaced it the last time I saw him. A thinnish liquid that applies easily and does a good job, especially with a little friction like on the wooden burnisher. Not sure what all is in it. If you let it dry in the tub, it leaves a really hard wax. I like it for heavy edges on skirting that I am not going to dye. Good stuff.

Like Kevin, I use glue on some edges too. The white glue thinned just like he said. I rub it hard and build up some heat. It makes a great edge, but takes some work. I like it for things like saddlehorn and leather covered stirrup edges. I have had problems with it cracking on things that flex much like planners and belts.

[SACL]

I used white saddle sharp today to do the initial edging On my belts. I'm using a drum dyed leather. Anyway, I applied the saddle soap with a wet sponge and burnished my edges. I'm now noticing that where the soap smeared into the leather it is leaving dark spots. I tried wiping it away but it's not coming out. Any ideas? I really don't want to scrap this belt and start over. Thanks!

I used white saddle sharp today to do the initial edging On my belts. I'm using a drum dyed leather. Anyway, I applied the saddle soap with a wet sponge and burnished my edges. I'm now noticing that where the soap smeared into the leather it is leaving dark spots. I tried wiping it away but it's not coming out. Any ideas? I really don't want to scrap this belt and start over. Thanks!

[electrathon]

First, I did not know that white soap worked, have always used yellow.

I used white saddle sharp today to do the initial edging On my belts. I'm using a drum dyed leather. Anyway, I applied the saddle soap with a wet sponge and burnished my edges. I'm now noticing that where the soap smeared into the leather it is leaving dark spots. I tried wiping it away but it's not coming out. Any ideas? I really don't want to scrap this belt and start over. Thanks!

I used white saddle sharp today to do the initial edging On my belts. I'm using a drum dyed leather. Anyway, I applied the saddle soap with a wet sponge and burnished my edges. I'm now noticing that where the soap smeared into the leather it is leaving dark spots. I tried wiping it away but it's not coming out. Any ideas? I really don't want to scrap this belt and start over. Thanks!

When I do it I get the leather wet, then rub the bar of soap along the edge. As to the discolorization, I would soap up the whole piece. That is what it is made for. It likely will darken it, but it will be darker everywhere and well conditioned.

[Ben00]

On 12/22/2007 at 8:57 AM, David Genadek said:

I use edge and casing compund which is the base for antique stains. It is pretty much Gum tragacanth. I think the important concept here is that you really don't rub the edge you compress the edge and you use the edge product for two reasons. One to help bind the fibers together, and 2 to act as a lubricant so you can apply enough pressure to get the compression you need for a good edge.

I finish with a polyurethane that was designed for shoe refinishing to create a patent leather look. These edges hold up for the life of the product.

David Genadek

Hey David, 

 

can u drop the name of the polyethurane that you use as a reist? Also just confirming that your saying that this shoe finishing product is durable through essentially any environment? (Water, extreme heat, extreme cold, frequent bending, no cracking of paint?) do you know if it is more durable than a product such as neat-lac? 
 

thanks Ben N

[Ben00]

On 12/20/2007 at 10:02 PM, bruce johnson said:

Daggrim,

Gum Tragacanth is a gleatinous kind of mixture used in a lot of products from medicine to cosmetics. It is used on edges of leather and then rubbed to burnish them. It is usually sold mixed up, but some places sell it as a powder. Easier to buy it mixed, they add an antimicrobial of some time I think. I bought some powder (not cheap) and mixed it myself several years ago. It grew more mold by the end of a week than bad cheese in an unplugged refrigerator.

Billy,

I like the effects of gum trag. I never really found a decent way to apply it until about a year ago. I tried sponges, sponge brushes, rags, finger tips, envelope moistening pens, etc. They all work, but when you have a pile of work to slick, they take too long. You are applying some to a sponge, it runs out, reapply after 6" of edge, gain another 6". I hit a deal on one of the Heritage Dye Boxes that Weaver sells. I never liked it for dye, The reservoir is too deep and requires too much dye to bring it up the roller sponge level, It is a bit uneven in its application of dye, and a real pain to clean every time. I put gum trag in it and have never looked back. It puts the right amount on, continuously reapplies fresh GT to the roller, and I have never cleaned it since. I just snap on the cover and leave it sit. I replenish, stir with my finger, and go on the next time. For shorter runs, a small sponge paint roller might work.

To weigh in on saddles soap. I use that too. I only use the white now, and sometimes I apply it to leather before I tool it also. The yellow saddle soap can leave some lavender spots on some leathers. I use SS to slick edges on latigo and some strap work. A few things about it. For me it will lay down the fibers and look pretty smooth. I have a hard time generating the friction needed to burnish (and there is a difference between slicking and burnishing). Burnished edges will resist nicking more than a slicked edges. Burnished edges will look more glassy. SS will pull of my edge dye if I dye the edge first. SS will partially resist my edge dye if I dye after slicking. I have got some flaming purple edges. For straps like breast collar tugs and horse tack that I am not putting a sealer on or edge dyeing, I use SS to slick them. It will lay down the fibers on the fleshside too, and give a nice waxy feel. I have a damp rag that I saturate with SS and use that rag to slick with - rub on edges or wrap it around straps and pull them through. I store the rag in an empty SS can and keep it moist. Some guys will let them dry and use them drier than me. Personal preference.

I use wax sometimes too. About anything that will moisten an edge can be used to burnish - water, casing solution, alcohol. I was taught in one class early on to use spirit dyes. It works, but the golden period is shorter and I messed up some projects with spillage and dripping issues. I could probably use it now with some improved application methods.

Hi Bruce, 

 

you say there is a difference between slicking an edge and burnishing I’m a bit new to this, but anywhere online it says slicking and burnishing are the same. Is slicking more the process of compressing the fibers manually and burnishing is doing it by machine I ask as I’m considering buying a Dremel tool, or possibly a soldering iron. I’ve been told since I’m looking to edge very thin leather like exotic reptile skin, and i will be colouring my edges  then I should use the soldering iron. But if burnishing is the best way to go possibly that sounds tempting lmk thanks.

 

ben N