looking for a new stain/antique/finish combination

[CitizenKate]

I'm looking for a new stain/antique/finish combination that will work well for beginning leather crafters, which I hope to start teaching next summer.

Specifically, I need a finish that can be applied with a foam brush or cloth that won't smear the [expletive deleted] antique. I could just have the class use what I use for my own projects, but there are two problems with that. The stain/antique I use is not a prepared product that can be used right out of the package, and the finish works best if it's sprayed on. Most beginning leather crafters are not prepared to invest in spraying equipment. I'm also not a big fan of Pre-val sprayers.

I've tried all the stain products offered by Tandy (the gel antique, the color stain, even the all-in-one), and they all smear when I apply any water-based finish with a foam brush, even though the direction say they can be wiped on. The gel antique seems to hold up the best, but I chose not to use it for other reasons. And I know the all-in-one is supposed to be a one-step stain and finish, but when I tried it, it dried with a rather chalky surface texture that did not buff out. So in my opinion, for good results, it too needs a finish.

Also, all the finishes I've tried so far (*shene, Bee Natural, carnauba creme) yield the same results. Personally, I prefer wax over acrylic, but if I can find a stain/antique that won't smear with acrylic, I'll consider that as an option.

I just want to find one combination that is simple for beginners to use and produces nice results, and they can go on from that point and find things they may like better.

So what say y'all?

Thanks in advance for any input...

Kate

[Regis]

I use super shene a lot and was trying to figure out why I don't have smear problem with it after reading your post. Sooo, I just tried some scrap with Feibling acrylic dye and Delta Ceramcoat with TLF super shene on top and no smearing. Only thing I can imagine I may be doing different is that I dab it on and don't rub/brush it on. I got in that habit because it was the only way I could get down in cuts while using sponge rather than brush.

Now, if I can only get the underlying color neat to begin with [lol].

[ClayB]

I dont use antique a lot, but when I do, I finish it with Tan Kote. I put it on right after I wipe off the antique without even waiting for it to dry. That may be wrong, but I am impatient at that point. I wipe it on with a damp sponge. It might move the antique around a little, but I just wipe until it appears fairly smooth. It doesn't move the antique out of the impressions or cuts. I also dilute my antique quite a bit with Tan Kote before using it. Not sure how it would work for you but you could give it a try.

[CitizenKate]

I dont use antique a lot, but when I do, I finish it with Tan Kote. I put it on right after I wipe off the antique without even waiting for it to dry. That may be wrong, but I am impatient at that point. I wipe it on with a damp sponge. It might move the antique around a little, but I just wipe until it appears fairly smooth. It doesn't move the antique out of the impressions or cuts. I also dilute my antique quite a bit with Tan Kote before using it. Not sure how it would work for you but you could give it a try.

Hmmm... that's interesting. I'll give that a try.

Side note: the antique I normally use is mainly just tan-kote with some dye mixed into it, and a little neutral antique paste to soften the finish. When I wipe a water-based finish on over it, it stays put. Longer than the others, anyway.

Thanks for the tip,

Kate

[CitizenKate]

I use super shene a lot and was trying to figure out why I don't have smear problem with it after reading your post. Sooo, I just tried some scrap with Feibling acrylic dye and Delta Ceramcoat with TLF super shene on top and no smearing. Only thing I can imagine I may be doing different is that I dab it on and don't rub/brush it on. I got in that habit because it was the only way I could get down in cuts while using sponge rather than brush.

Regis,

Do you use any stains or antiques?

Kate

[Regis]

Kate,

Yes, but, for single color items so it would be less likely to see smearing. The guitar strap I posted today is done with the new med brown gel antique. I put super shene on it (but, I think after the photo). I've regularly used spirit & oil dye. I'm fairly new so my detailed coloring is only minor and I do use acrylic and don't see any smearing.

[CitizenKate]

How do you normally apply the shene to the gel antique? Paint it on, wipe it on with a cloth?

Thanks,

Kate

[Regis]

How do you normally apply the shene to the gel antique? Paint it on, wipe it on with a cloth?

Thanks,

Kate

I apply the gel and try to wipe off immediately (like the normal/older pastes). After the gel is dry (15 min or so), I dab super shene on, usually with a damp sponge. When I 1st started, I was not getting finish into the pattern so I started dabbing on a rather heavy coat. That way, it only takes one coat. I let dry for 5-10 minutes and buff. I've used the gel both over tankote and straight onto the leather.

[CitizenKate]

Okay, I'll give that a try, too. Thanks, Regis!

Kate

[abn]

Kate,

I've used All-In-One and gotten some really beautiful results with it. The way I apply it is to dampen a paper towel and wring every last drop of water out of it. Then put a healthy amount of All-In-One on that and wipe across the leather. Let that sit for maybe 5 seconds, then use a dry paper towel to wipe it off.

The reason I bring this up is that you might want to continue experimenting with All-In-One before writing it off. I've found it really easy to use, and it might be the perfect stain/finish combo for your class.

Regards, -Alex

[CitizenKate]

Okay, here are some results of my testing, if anyone is interested...

- It turns out, I was actually able to get some very nice results from the all-in-one. You just have to buff the heck out of it. I also discovered that it mixes very nicely with Tan-Kote to make lighter shades and add a little more protection. So this is the stain/antique I'm going to use for my classes. (I still prefer my own recipe for my own work, but this is something I've been testing for use in a class setting, that will produce nice results without much hassle.) With this product, you don't really have to use a sealing finish, but in case you want to...

- Tan-kote was the winner for the finish you can brush or wipe on water-based stains and antiques "with confidence" (i.e., you don't have to be too careful).

- Neutral shoe polish ended up being the best wax finish you can wipe on water-based stains. The antique was not disturbed at all when it was being wiped on, and you can create any kind of finish you like from mellow to high gloss, just depeding how much polish you put on, and how much buffing you want to do.

- Acrylic finishes can be used if you're careful enough. That is, work fast, make one pass (the second pass is what gets you), and avoid using too much pressure.

Thanks for all your input!

Kate

Edited December 2, 2007 by CitizenKate

[abn]

Thanks for sharing your results. Sounds like you've found a good combination.