Simple Chukka

[Wepster]

@Mablungyour work has motivated me to try them myself. Not that I think it looks easy, but it is doable. Just got a copy of shoes for free people used, (cheap! $7.80!). What have I got to lose? some time, some leather (if I really goof up, use the leather for key rings, bracelets!).

Thank you.

[rleather]

Man those look comfortable! Nice job.

[Mablung]

1 hour ago, Wepster said:

@Mablungyour work has motivated me to try them myself. Not that I think it looks easy, but it is doable. Just got a copy of shoes for free people used, (cheap! $7.80!). What have I got to lose? some time, some leather (if I really goof up, use the leather for key rings, bracelets!).

Thank you.

Oh, it really is easy. I didn’t make the pattern from scratch, but adapting one was simple. So you’re the one who swiped the cheap copies I found! Man, I had internet issues and missed getting one. Lol. Anywho, these things are not hard to make at all. Go for it! Glad I motivated you to try. 

43 minutes ago, rleather said:

Man those look comfortable! Nice job.

Thank you! They are very comfortable. The next iteration will be even better. 

[Wepster]

There was one on ebay, gone Monday morning, then I found one on Alibris, there and Second Sale are good used book sites. Sorry, sorta, that I scarfed one.

There was a leather vendor at the Ithaca NY farmers market last fall that had shoes. Basic stitch down chukka style. Similar to the Aurora shoes. That got me thinking, then your post.....

I do really like shoes......

[Mablung]

25 minutes ago, Wepster said:

There was one on ebay, gone Monday morning, then I found one on Alibris, there and Second Sale are good used book sites. Sorry, sorta, that I scarfed one.

There was a leather vendor at the Ithaca NY farmers market last fall that had shoes. Basic stitch down chukka style. Similar to the Aurora shoes. That got me thinking, then your post.....

I do really like shoes......

Well, I can’t blame you for the eBay one disappearing, then, as that was the only one in that price range I found. Wasn’t willing to pay the price asked for a few others I found. Anyway, I also like shoes, especially the kind that fit well and don’t cause joint misalignment. And bonus points if I can say I made them myself. 

[rleather]

4 hours ago, Mablung said:

Oh, it really is easy. I didn’t make the pattern from scratch, but adapting one was simple. So you’re the one who swiped the cheap copies I found! Man, I had internet issues and missed getting one. Lol. Anywho, these things are not hard to make at all. Go for it! Glad I motivated you to try. 

Thank you! They are very comfortable. The next iteration will be even better. 

Can't wait to see the next pair! 

 

[Mablung]

On 1/12/2024 at 6:02 PM, rleather said:

Can't wait to see the next pair! 

 

Hoping to get them done today and posted. How to do the dart @Aven described finally clicked in my head, so I tried it last night. I WAY overdid the dart, so I need to redo one upper, but I know now I got the idea basically right. I just need to tinker with the height and width of the dart to get it right. The leather I’m using is 5.5 oz., so I need to make it less dramatic than I thought I would. 

[Mablung]

Didn’t get everything done, but I at least got the dart right and did the butt joint to make the seam at the back. If I can ever get the 3/16” eyelets to set properly, I’ll be in business. For some reason, they keep coming out crooked and partially smashed. I think my setting anvil may be the wrong size, although the setter itself looks right. 

[Aven]

19 hours ago, Mablung said:

Hoping to get them done today and posted. How to do the dart @Aven described finally clicked in my head, so I tried it last night. I WAY overdid the dart, so I need to redo one upper, but I know now I got the idea basically right. I just need to tinker with the height and width of the dart to get it right. The leather I’m using is 5.5 oz., so I need to make it less dramatic than I thought I would. 

Shoes are so deceptive, 1/4" change is huge.  Darts like the one you have in your picture work well enough to bring in the top line or to tuck the leather up around the heel. Contrasting thread color will make them a cool accent.

If you find that they aren't quite what you need, I would suggest you go back to the Velle pattern and look at the curved heel. Use that pattern  Try it out on some scrap. No need to cut the whole side out, just the curve.  Cut it out on pieces that are at least two inches wide and sew it up. Put that up against your heel and see how it fits.  If the middle bit poofs away from your heel, make the curve a little bit flatter.  If the top/ bottom gap, make the curve a tiny bit tighter.  Putz around with scrap until you get the fit that works for your feet.  Don't forget to keep a copy of the curve so you can use it for all the other shoes you are going to make. (Insert big cheesy grin)  .  Thin box cardboard works okay.

Check out Kamsnaps. They have a grommet setters and the dies that might sort things out for you.  Its a tad bit spendy, but worth it in the long run if all the eyelets you set are set perfectly.   And remember its important that there is

 

[Mablung]

2 hours ago, Aven said:

Shoes are so deceptive, 1/4" change is huge.  Darts like the one you have in your picture work well enough to bring in the top line or to tuck the leather up around the heel. Contrasting thread color will make them a cool accent.

If you find that they aren't quite what you need, I would suggest you go back to the Velle pattern and look at the curved heel. Use that pattern  Try it out on some scrap. No need to cut the whole side out, just the curve.  Cut it out on pieces that are at least two inches wide and sew it up. Put that up against your heel and see how it fits.  If the middle bit poofs away from your heel, make the curve a little bit flatter.  If the top/ bottom gap, make the curve a tiny bit tighter.  Putz around with scrap until you get the fit that works for your feet.  Don't forget to keep a copy of the curve so you can use it for all the other shoes you are going to make. (Insert big cheesy grin)  .  Thin box cardboard works okay.

Check out Kamsnaps. They have a grommet setters and the dies that might sort things out for you.  Its a tad bit spendy, but worth it in the long run if all the eyelets you set are set perfectly.   And remember its important that there is

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I modified this heel pattern to curve a little bit more, at least at the top. I’m a believer in changing this incrementally, so I’ll probably go ahead and try just with the dart, then make another pair. I could use some low-top shoes as well, so I might as well continue to fiddle. Plus, I have a whole side of SB Foote to work with, so I can make a large number of brown shoes. Good thought on the Kamsnap setter. I’ll take a look. The weird thing is, my 1/4” eyelets set just fine, no problems. I’m going to look at the anvil again and at Tandy to see if part of my setup is defective—I can feel a little burr around the outside of the setting eye in the middle, so I may just need to polish it with a small, fine file.