Machine recommendation for best fwd/rev stitch matching

[sojourner999]

Hi everyone,

I have an older consew 206RB4 where the fwd stitch length does not match the rev stitch length.  Furthermore, with this model, there is no ability to match fwd and rev.  I also acquired a Juki LU-563, where the adjustment for matching stitch length cannot be done because the part is pinned (

)

I mainly sew textiles, but want to get into leather (deer and maybe elk leather) for pouches or shirts.   And I want to have a machine where the fed and rev stitch lengths are consistent at any stitch length.

I am looking at purchasing new, either a Seiko sth-8bld-3, Juki 1541s or Juki 1508ns.

which of these machines would be the most “accurate” matching fwd and rev stitches at any stitch length setting?

Much appreciated for any and all input.

 

[Uwe]

I’d recommend approaching this from a design standpoint. If the machine has a service manual section about adjusting FWD/REV balance, that’s a good sign. That means the engineers actually considered that you might want to adjust that detail and make it easy to do. If the adjustment involves an adjustment screw, that’s going to be a precise adjustment. 

If you can’t find any instructions in the manuals, then the machine design may not allow (or make it easy) to adjust stitch balance and may not be a good candidate for you.

Make sure you track down and read the service manual BEFORE buy a machine. If you can’t find a service manual, I’d say it’s a no-go. 

Regardless of how precisely you adjust FWD/REV stitch length, it’ll never be a mathematically precise setting in all situations. Factors like material thickness, type, layers, etc. still play a factor.

Here’s an example of what to look for. The adjustment section of the Dürkopp Adler M-Type 867 Service Manual shows adjustment steps. It’s one of the best flatbed leather machines I’ve worked with. It might be a candidate worth considering if you can afford it. They run about $5K new. Clones have started to appear as well. 

 

 

 

[1hp]

this is for RB5, maybe it will help.

[sojourner999]

Thank you @Uwe.  I am going to look at the service manuals for the models I am considering.  Sometimes I get “wrapped around the axle” trying to get precision that may or may not be there.   I’ll look at the Adler, but that may be out of my price range.  Much appreciated.  
 

@1hp thanks for the share.  Unfortunately, RB4 and prior do not have the parts that R/5 does when it comes to this adjustment.  I read a post on here about someone who had success on an RB3 and that did not work for me.  I also sent Seiko Japan an email and they responded with an adjustment for a different part.  That part does not exist on my RB4.   I believe I have exhausted all avenues for this RB4.  
 

I am off to find some manuals and do some more research.

 

all - if anyone has real world experience with the models I mentioned, please share.

 

thanks!

[sojourner999]

This is for both 1541 and 1508 1/2

This is 2/2

 

[sojourner999]

The instructions @1hp provided for consew 206rb-5 are exactly the same as the Seiko sth-8bld-3.  They appear to be same exact machines with the former made in China and the latter made in Japan.

Looking at the Juki adjustment, i am not sure the Juki “pin” would be as accurate as a screw.  And the Seiko/consew looks like the regulator rod would be similar in accuracy.   That is just from looking at the images.  I am thinking six of one and half-dozen of the other.  
 

the Adler 867 looks real nice, but way above my budget at this time (hobbyist looking to eventually move to part time creator).  
 

I am going to do some more research and see what I can find.  Also, anyone else here with experience may reply in a couple days.  Weekend and all.

 

Thanks!

 

[sojourner999]

I was able to remove the pin that keeps me from adjusting the fwd/reverse stitch length balance on my Juki LU-563.

First i pushed a thread through the pin to ensure the pin went all the way through.

Firt

Edited April 24 by sojourner999
added make/model of machine

[sojourner999]

Then I used a 3/32" roll pin punch to start punching it out.  

[sojourner999]

Then a couple more punches and it was out.   Easy, peasy, lemon squeezy.  I guess I have one of the machines where it is easy to remove.

I needed a 3/32" roll pin punch (1/16" too small and 1/8" too big).  Your mileage may vary.  I have no idea how every pinned machine gets pinned.

I bought it from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QV2JTXK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

tagging @Jhunter13

Edited April 24 by sojourner999
added amazon purchase link for those interested where i purchased it

[sojourner999]

I just wanted to share what worked for me.  I would never have thought there was a solution unless I had the support of members here and for members youtube videos.  Thanks all and special thanks to @Uwe!

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I still have the Consew 206RB-4 and am getting closer to selling it and getting a Seiko STH-8BLD-3 to replace it.  I see that has instructions for matching stitch length.

I feel my never ending Odyssey of matching forward and reverse stitch lengths is coming to a close.

Now I have to find some light leather to start on my idea (pick pouch for a banjo) and/or tan a hide of the next deer I take (season doesn't start until the fall).

Thanks all!