Enduro Servo Motor voltage requirements, 220v not required !?!

[Dave9111]

This has been mentioned a few times in various message threads regarding the Enduro motors that were/are sold on Ebay.   But I just wanted to put this down as a topic for you guys out there who grabbed some dirt cheap Enduro motors as I did a few years ago.  

I have a few Enduro 1050-2PF, 220 volts,  servo motors that I bought off Ebay a while ago.

They were dirt cheap on one point.  Like $35 each or so??   

I have 240 volts in my shop so it was no big deal to run some cords to feed these motors.   However some folks have mentioned that these can run ok on 120 AC.   I'm setting up a new to me Pfaff Chainstitch machine
so I dug out one of the 1050-2PF units and hooked it up.   I had to put a plug on the end, so why not try out 120 VAC?

It works fine.   I tried a wooden hammer handle torque test ( start the motor with a wooden hammer handle forced onto the edge of the V belt pulley ).  The motor has plenty of torque at 120 VAC to grind grooves into the hammer handle from a dead start.

I belted the machine to the motor and it all works fine at 120 VAC.   The display and control buttons are working just fine as well.  I have not tried hooking up the needle positioner sensor.  That is next.   This unit also has a 24 volt solenoid output for a foot lifter.  But I probably won't use that.

Obviously these motors were designed to operate on a range of input voltages.  Why these don't show that on the boxes?   I have no idea.

Note that I cannot find any laboratory testing approval of any kind (UL, etc) on these motors, the boxes or the paperwork, so make sure you turn them off when you are done sewing.  

I'm ok with that myself.

 

  

 

[kgg]

15 minutes ago, Dave9111 said:

Note that I cannot find any laboratory testing approval of any kind (UL, etc) on these motors, the boxes or the paperwork, so make sure you turn them off when you are done sewing.  

My suggestion is that you unplug them. If they are not plugged in there is no potential of a fire hazard. If they are not ULC or CSA approved and should something happen you may run into a problem with your insurance company.

kgg

[GerryR]

I have the SM645B-2P which is the smaller version of the 1050.  I haven't tried it on 120VAC.  There is a problem with the needle position sensor on the 645 in that the mache makes an extra revolution when it goes to stop.  The reason, I found, is that it is looking for a 2nd pulse to stop on.  I ventured into the sensor and modified it to give a second pulse rather than wait for a 2nd revolution.  There are 2 small holes next to each other and then a third hole 180 deg. away on the radius of the top hole.  I merely placed a piece of black electrical tape over the single hole (the one 180 deg. away) and drilled a hole approximately .75 inches away from the first top hole.  It now works fine, and can be set either needle up or needle down. (Picture attached)  You have to know which direction your wheel is turning; mine is turning CW, but I have the sensor on the back side (patcher) so the sensor is also turning CW.  The hole I added is as shown in the picture.  If your sensor is turning CCW, the added hole will have to be on the opposite side.  I don't know if the 1050 has the same problem, but if it does, this is the fix.

[Dave9111]

6 hours ago, GerryR said:

I have the SM645B-2P which is the smaller version of the 1050.  I haven't tried it on 120VAC.  There is a problem with the needle position sensor on the 645 in that the mache makes an extra revolution when it goes to stop.  The reason, I found, is that it is looking for a 2nd pulse to stop on.  I ventured into the sensor and modified it to give a second pulse rather than wait for a 2nd revolution.  There are 2 small holes next to each other and then a third hole 180 deg. away on the radius of the top hole.  I merely placed a piece of black electrical tape over the single hole (the one 180 deg. away) and drilled a hole approximately .75 inches away from the first top hole.  It now works fine, and can be set either needle up or needle down. (Picture attached)  You have to know which direction your wheel is turning; mine is turning CW, but I have the sensor on the back side (patcher) so the sensor is also turning CW.  The hole I added is as shown in the picture.  If your sensor is turning CCW, the added hole will have to be on the opposite side.  I don't know if the 1050 has the same problem, but if it does, this is the fix.

Nice!  

Thanks