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About GerryR

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  • Birthday 08/11/1949

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  • Location
    VA, USA
  • Interests
    mechanics, electronics, guns, hunting, leather work, woodworking, etc., etc., etc.

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    no specialty
  • Interested in learning about
    Machine sewing of leather and anything pertaining to leather work.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

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  1. I used an AC variable frequency drive on a Singer 153 that I had and was quite happy with it. The drive ran a 1 hp 3 phase motor (definitely overkill) and you could make the needle crawl, so you could stop the needle anywhere and didn't need a positioner. When running an AC drive at slow speed (lower than line frequency) it runs in "constant torque" mode, so there is plenty of drive to penetrate thicker materials (over line frequency, it runs in constant hp mode). DC drives tend to run at much higher RPMs, and there torque curves are different than AC drives. I think that is why people use speed reducers, to get the motor to a more acceptable RPM-torque level and get more range from the foot pedal. I personally prefer the AC Variable Frequency Drive (VFD) over the DC drives that I have used, but your mileage may vary. It might be worth a look at though. One other point: AC VFDs can run off single phase power, but put out 3 phase power for 3-phase motors.
  2. For thinner leather, I would temporarily stick the leather to a piece of cardboard to stiffen it for cutting. I have a bench-mounted scroll saw and a band saw. Thinner materials always benefit from a stiffer backing, especially on the scroll saw, where the blade is reciprocating..
  3. You can use a standard 3 phase AC motor (1725 rpm) with a 5 to 1 gear reducer attached and use a VFD (variable speed drive) for speed control. The VFD only requires single phase input (220, 1ph input VFD's are readily available) and generates the three phase output for the motor. This gives zero to 345 rpm, and depending on the output pulley diameter ratio to the pulley on your machine, can be reduced even further. The VFD's provide constant torque to the rated motor rpm, so there is no issue with being able to sew the thickness you require with a 1/2 to 3/4 hp motor. (I am actually using a 1 hp motor that I had.) Foot pedal control can be obtained by using a TIG welder foot pedal, which can be had from Ebay; the motor and speed reducer can be had from Ebay, as well. Of course you need to have someone around that is comfortable making the setup, but I like it as well as the DC servo's available. I just thought I would mention another option
  4. I don't have a leather sewing machine from Sew Line, but I did purchase a portable blind-hemmer from them. It is the same exact machine as a Consew and a couple of other makers, just with a Sew Line label on it, and at quite a reduced price from the other brands. It came in the factory box, was lubed and worked out of the box with no issues. It had a sew-off sample still mounted on the machine when I received it. So, I expect that the machine you are looking at is the same as several other brand name machines, with the Sew Line label on it. The Sew Line people were easy to deal with. As I do my own setup and maintenance, that would not be an issue for me. ymmv. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them, as I think there machines are the same as many other brands and at a savings. I will add that if you do not do your own setup and maintenance, the difference in price you are talking about for the Cowboy would be worth the support you would get, if needed.
  5. I have a 153W103 and can sew 207 top, 138 bottom. No strain at all, and found it can handle a #25 needle, though I mostly use a #24 with 207 thread. An additional spring in the tensioner helps in pulling the bottom thread up, and when sewing the thicker stuff (5/16"), the #25 needle helps a little more. Parts are fairly easy to come by as I have picked up several extras to have on hand, hook assembly gears, etc. I use a gear reducer and a VFD (variable frequency drive) for speed control for a 1HP motor, which I topped off at about 300 SPM. I don't think you will go wrong with the 153.
  6. I assume it is easier if the snake is dead ? Interesting about the descaling, but how is the skin tanned? Just curious.
  7. Thank you for detailing all that. I am challenged when it comes to restoring wood pieces. In fact, I am challenged when even trying to get a good finish on new wood. Thanks again
  8. I'm interested in how you restored the wood handle, Including the brass ferrule?
  9. Very nice. Great idea about the second set of holes for more "squeeze" power. I don't remember ever seeing that on other ponies or horses.
  10. I don't know if they ship overseas, but Meader Supply Corporation has always had a good supply of hardware. Flip through their online tack catalog, and you may find what you are looking for. http://www.meadersupply.com/Tack-Catalog-V-L/Tack-Catalog-V-L.html#p=1
  11. I cut 3 coils off of a flat-wire recoil spring that I have for 1911 pistols (I'm a gunsmith, actually a pistol smith). The flat-wire spring fits inside the standard spring. I can send you a length of spring, if you would like one, and you can cut it using a Dremel with an abrasive cutoff disk. Offer to you, Doug, as well. Send me an email with your address, if you would like one. (totalautomation1 at gmail dot com)
  12. Frankqv, I have not had that problem. Presently I have a 135 x 16 TRI (180/24) Organ needle in the machine with 207 on top and 138 in the bobbin. Thread is bonded polyester. It would be interesting to see the eyes under magnification to compare the Organ vs. Schmetz needles. Curious, I had to add an additional spring to the tensioner to get the machine to consistently pull the bottom thread (138) into the leather. Did you have any problems with tension with the 207 thread?
  13. The feed dogs that I have contain an elongated slot. Even though the manual states that 24 is the largest needle, I have used a #25 when using 207 thread on top (138 on Bottom). (I added a supplemental spring to the thread tensioner to increase tension when using the heavier thread and sewing thicker leather.) No problems so far.
  14. The Singer part numbers for the feed dogs on my machine (153W103) are 240674-46 and 240675-40 and the plate number is 240676. The -46 dog has teeth behind the needle hole and nothing (a step-down) in front of the hole (This is what is on my machine.). The -40 has teeth front and rear of the hole, which would give more "bite." Many people grind the teeth off, and polish the dog, to prevent marking the leather. It hasn't been an issue with me, and I have no feeding problems. I believe you can get these parts from Sharp Sewing Supplies in California (no affiliation). Hope this helps.
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