GerryR

I have the SM645B-2P which is the smaller version of the 1050. I haven't tried it on 120VAC. There is a problem with the needle position sensor on the 645 in that the mache makes an extra revolution when it goes to stop. The reason, I found, is that it is looking for a 2nd pulse to stop on. I ventured into the sensor and modified it to give a second pulse rather than wait for a 2nd revolution. There are 2 small holes next to each other and then a third hole 180 deg. away on the radius of the top hole. I merely placed a piece of black electrical tape over the single hole (the one 180 deg. away) and drilled a hole approximately .75 inches away from the first top hole. It now works fine, and can be set either needle up or needle down. (Picture attached) You have to know which direction your wheel is turning; mine is turning CW, but I have the sensor on the back side (patcher) so the sensor is also turning CW. The hole I added is as shown in the picture. If your sensor is turning CCW, the added hole will have to be on the opposite side. I don't know if the 1050 has the same problem, but if it does, this is the fix.

Very nice!! Looks like with that speed reducer you can make a stitch every 30-days or so .

Do you have a picture of what they look like now? Osbourne has two-prong thronging chisels; they have hardened prongs and should be used over a board, or something reasonably soft, so as not to damage the tool when punching through leather. Lacing "needles" are a different animal altogether.

I assume you clamp it to a bench??? I made mine so you can "attach" it to a chair and sit on it to stabilize it. It is adjustable for different height chairs.

I seem to favor AC servo systems. They are 3-phase motor systems (with 1-phase power input) using a variable frequency drive (VFD). I have built a couple of different systems. They are more expensive than the Enduro DC drive systems, and you need an "Inverter" rated motor to run at low speeds (to handle the extra heat). I mention this because using a proximity sensor and a metal flag on the hand-wheel, for example, they can be made to stop in any position, depending upon the location of the metal flag, regardless of the speed reducer used. They, generally speaking, are very reliable systems, as well. A general DC servo system can be made to do the same, however the systems made specifically for sewing machines do not seam to have this option. I'm just tossing out another option when considering motor drives for sewing machines.

xxx found the videos.

Verry nice. (I used stainless steel caps on the jaws on mine. It will defleck the needle and protect the jaws if I get too close when stitching.)

I need things that are portable, as well as functional, because of space requirements. I made a table/stand for my Chinese Patcher from 2" PVC pipe. It has ball rollers at the bottom of the pipes and a handle to shift the weight to the rollers when I want to move it; functional and portable! I made "T-nuts" from steel stock and used long bolts to fabricate the table using the pipe; not as sturdy as a weldment, but good enough for a small patcher.

The best "critique" you are going to have is when you actually use the finished product. Then you will say, "I should have done this or I could have done that; all the shoulda, woulda, coulda's. That looks very nice and very sturdy and already looks like a lot of thought has gone into it! I took the easy way out and adopted a cheap work station from Harbor Freight to do the job:

With all the stuff recommended, he will need a roll-around tool box!!

Looks pretty complete, though I don't know why a small set of 1/4" (or nut-drivers) or 3/8" sockets wouldn't come in handy. Also, a couple of "C" or "E" clip tools might come in handy, as well.

Sorry, that unit has been sold, but I can post some pictures from the cast iron version that I have. It isn't a portable but everything is nearly identical. I'll take some pictures of a belt I made and post them. May be a little hard to see the black-on-black, but you should be able to get the idea. Edited to add pictures; last picture is the backside which is brown but doesn't show it in the picture. The buckle end pictures shows the beginning and end of a 45 inch long belt done with one bobbin with thread to spear (92 thread).

Here is a "portable" patcher I put together. It does need 220VAC to run, though. Much quicker than sewing by hand, and it can be clamped to any bench. The stitch quality is quite good IMO. This is the aluminum alloy patcher, not the cast iron one. The foot pedal speed control is made from a bicycle hand brake.

I have a "Chinese Patcher" and put a servo motor/controller on it. It cost me about $150.00 total. Maybe I'm not as fussy as others, but I think the stitching is fine. I changed the needle system to 135x16 so I have more options, and can sew up to 138 thread size. The change was rather minor; the needle bar had to be adjusted. I have a way of putting a flat on the needles like the HAx1 that the standard machine uses, but I have read where others modify the groove in the needle bar to accept the round 135x16 needles. The real negative I find to be is the small bobbin size, but I have been able to do the complete perimeter of a belt with no problems. Still the best buy to get one into a machine! (I had a Singer 153W103 and sold it as this sewed just as well. YMMV!) It will do up to 5/16" (20 oz.) leather, depending of course on the temper.

Nice tiger skin pattern!! Unique mag holder.