Edge beveled size for various leather thicknesses

[Aventurine]

I don’t understand how edge bevelers are sized.  What bevelers should I get for 5 oz (2mm) veg tan?  6oz?  7, 8, 9, 10, 12 oz? 

[billybopp]

Unfortunately, there's no standard for beveler sizes.  In all cases, the smaller the number the smaller the cut and the thinner the leather you'd use it for, but one brand's #1 might be another brand's #3.  It's frustrating!

- Bill

[zuludog]

As mentioned by billybop, and no doubt others to come -

Sometimes the manufacturers list the size of tiny blade inside an edge beveler, either in mm or fractions of an inch, but to make things easier they give them a size number ..... so far, so good

The problem is that there is no common standard, each maker has their own system or standards ...... so, for example, a size 3 might be bigger or smaller than a size 3 from other makers. The only way to obtain a consistent grading or progression in sizes is to buy all of the same type of tool 

However, the general rule is that you use a smaller number size on thinner leather. Some makers, but not many, give suggestions for which number to use on which thickness, but you have to search their Websites

Then there's the preference of each leather worker - some might like to remove a small amount of leather, some a lot, and so they will use different bevelers on the same piece of leather ..... and then you have the choice of a grooved or flat beveler

Fun, isn't it?!

Search YT for Choosing the size of leather edge bevelers, there are a few videos, though I haven't watched any

My guess is that you are a beginner. All I can suggest is that you buy one or two of the smaller sizes  of the simple, basic, cheap beveler for about $10 to $15 that you often see, and take it from there ..... watch videos on sharpening & using ..... and videos on things you'd like to make, so you'll see what sort of bevelers they use on what thickness of leather, they might even list them.

You get a better idea of the size needed if the beveler is very sharp - the key to good leatherwork is to have razor sharp tools. Search YT for appropriate videos -- this is a good one

 

Edited July 12 by zuludog

[chuck123wapati]

it depends on what you want your edges to look like. Full round, partial round, square etc. 

[fredk]

I used to fuss about this then I wised up and use these wee edgers on all thicknesses of leather then finish the job with a carrot slicker

I get them off ebay at 10 for less than £/$5

[Aventurine]

Hmm.   Quite chaotic.  Well I will forgive myself for being baffled.  To be specific, if I want to use between 6 oz and 10 oz leathers and give them fully rounded edges, would this set of Wuta tools probably do the job?   And Fred...do you mean an actual carrot slicer?  OR do you mean the skiving tool with the blade in a little square frame at the end of the handle?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S9QL37X/

[fredk]

[zuludog]

There are a few Japanese/Chinese/Korean  manufacturers of leatherworking tools that are good quality and reasonably priced, including Seiwa; Craft Sha; Oka; Kyoshin Elle; and Wuta ..... so yes, the set you have shown will do the job, probably with a bit of sanding & burnishing to obtain a smooth rounded edge. You could also get a rounded edge by using grooved edgers, but the Wuta set will do the job and are cheap enough, though you will almost certainly have to sharpen them as shown in my earlier reply

Most leatherworking tools only come with a basic finish, to keep the price down to a reasonable level; it is only the expensive custom made tools that you can use straight out of the box 

Read FREDK's post carefully, he mentions a carrot SLICKER, not SLICER --- edge burnishers or slickers are usually of two designs; one is made from turned wood, has a few grooves, and is tapered; it is called the carrot type for obvious reasons to distinguish it from the other main type, which is flat and sometimes called the slipper type. See here, forget the small disc, that is intended to be used on a rotary tool such as a Dremel

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Leather-Slicker-Multi-Size-Burnisher-Handworking/dp/B07H2HNZWN/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?crid=OO4SJTSY7E3H&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.0Kh9hbdzio5Td_BvaeF2Ft8zz9B1-KSBStQjdvbwQreaoIkL1f9CjcgnS0eE-t8-qZDtVdV6pdbpdnpire-nFe69ZiQQf7Sp3Qcv9BabGvlm_qfro5SZtBJIU8BhwhIFlz9CYwdQbELv7NHvYk_v0exCwvV-ZSTNvgEnmms-X0h9TMrHutFjauZo7AYMQjlJH-34Bkg61iLByisJTqLrOiMHhR2UCVe3rmnEAuF6jxH-3FCsHAt-qPm1Jg55lRibO1_ejKeCRasPQU_h8ZjufjfWTDhYttCt9HlvzuaDA8c.EuKn1Sq3bKaraeDoGRNBp1S-iAId8USKdcJwZClAmjs&dib_tag=se&keywords=leather%2Bedge%2Bburnishers&qid=1720803082&sprefix=%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-11-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&th=1

Hmmm .... please excuse this question, but I have to ask -- just how much experience do you have in leatherwork? .... as some of your questions here and in other Posts are quite basic

I suggest you Search YouTube for categories such as beginners leather tools - each video will be slightly different, reflecting the choices of the individual worker, but watch a few and you'll get the general idea. There are also videos on techniques such as edge beveling & finishing, saddle stitch, skiving, sharpening, and so on. Watch videos on making the items you fancy, and also simple items such as key fobs & card holders, and you'll see what other people use and how they do things. (and make some yourself!) You'll quickly realise that most leatherwork uses the same sort of methods & tools whatever you're making, so watch as many as you have the stamina for and you'll pick up instant experience

You need to make a few items, starting simply then building up, to get a feel for handling leather, cutting, stitching, edge finishing, and all the rest of it

These channels are good, but there are many others - JH Leather; Corter Leather; Nigel Armitage; Leodis Leather

Oh, and have fun!

Edited July 12 by zuludog

[Aventurine]

Ah!   It's called a *carrot* !  Now I know!  I've used  one and for some reason only knew it as a burnishing pin.

Yes my questions are sadly and utterly newbish.   Apart from Sheridan-style decorative leather tooling (for  which I never had to do the cutting and stitching, only the decoration) my experience is limited to buckskin.   The only tools I ever needed for that were some awls, some needles, and a sturdy pair of shears.  I am never quite sure where to post my questions --- under the newbie general rubric or under the specific sort of skill or tool I need to know about.  I hope when I err the admin will move me to the right place.

[Mablung]

Definitely nothing wrong with asking questions, but you’ll learn a bit more at a time and a bit faster if you read through the existing threads as well. I don’t say that to be “that guy” who doesn’t like it when new people ask questions—never feel bad about asking questions. But, you will be able to find a lot of information in previous threads and on YouTube, and faster than someone can give you a comprehensive answer. 

[Aventurine]

Thank you.   I have looked around quite a bit and I just don't find the specifics I need -- "With *this* weight leather use *this* size of *this* tool".  It's mostly "Here's the kind of tool I use to do this kind of thing".   I'm grateful for the more specific advice here.

Regarding using tools straight out of the box -- I expect the usual sharpening.  What I am unwilling to deal with is the need to grind off burs,  or smooth the ridges between tines of poorly manufactured stitching chisels,  or modify the width of a beveling blade,  or smooth the inside of the eye of a sewing awl, or re-set the position of an awl blade so that it is angled properly  to the flat side of the handle.  I need basic good craftsmanship from the manufacturer.

Edited July 12 by Aventurine

[Littlef]

The sizes really are not standardized.  I've found that if you look at 5 different makers, each one numbers them sequentially, but the widths are different.  I have found that typically the makers do give specs on their websites to give a little clarification.  They normally give specs in how thick of leather for the tool, shown in in mm, versus showing it in Ounces.  A quick google search should yield charts with corresponding thicknesses compared to ounces.  Also - There's not a hard set rule on how much you have to bevel.  In general, the thicker the leather, the wider the bevel, but it comes down to making a bevel, and determining if you like how it looks.    I keep 3 bevels on hand.  A skinny one, a medium one, and a larger one (I have no clue what the numbers are), and they  cover pretty much anything I'm doing. 

Edited July 12 by Littlef

[zuludog]

26 minutes ago, Aventurine said:

Thank you.   I have looked around quite a bit and I just don't find the specifics I need -- "With *this* weight leather use *this* size of *this* tool".  It's mostly "Here's the kind of tool I use to do this kind of thing".   I'm grateful for the more specific advice here.

As you do leatherwork you'll learn for yourself what combination of size/weight/type of leather & tool & thread you'll need, and it will come naturally -- it's called 'gaining experience'.

But you already have an advantage over me - I don't do carving/stamping/moulding/tooling, and I've never used buckskin or rawhide

Search YT for Harry Rogers. He has videos on general leatherwork, including beginners, and also a series on making handmade shoes

Edited July 12 by zuludog

[Mablung]

As alluded to already, there’s a lot of “art” and feel to this stuff. You’ll learn what you like using and what produces the look you want. I even do some beveling with my round knife, if my push beveler doesn’t produce the effect I want. 

[SUP]

@Aventurine , just a thought...

It appears you are so new to leatherwork that you are still learning about the tools. Making buckskin moccasins is very different from making structured shoes.  I understand that you want to jump in there but why not try something simpler so that you get the hang of leatherwork itself, get the knowledge and then think of moving to making shoes. You can start with a few simple tools, get an idea of stitching other leather, cutting it, working with it, (so different from buckskin - I know - I went that path too but not to other shoes) and then work your way to shoes. You 

 

Edited July 12 by SUP

[Aventurine]

@FredK....those look like...manicure tools??  Brilliant!

[fredk]

Yup, they are also sold as 'cuticle cutters' in the beauty section of ebay. They are sold as leather working tools at about £/$5 each but as cuticle cutters they are cheaper at under £/$5 for ten. Those ones are actually £3.80 for ten

[Aventurine]

Billy, Zulu, Chuck, Fred, Mablung, Little, Sup, Thank you all!