Edge beveled size for various leather thicknesses

[Aventurine]

Thank you.   I have looked around quite a bit and I just don't find the specifics I need -- "With *this* weight leather use *this* size of *this* tool".  It's mostly "Here's the kind of tool I use to do this kind of thing".   I'm grateful for the more specific advice here.

Regarding using tools straight out of the box -- I expect the usual sharpening.  What I am unwilling to deal with is the need to grind off burs,  or smooth the ridges between tines of poorly manufactured stitching chisels,  or modify the width of a beveling blade,  or smooth the inside of the eye of a sewing awl, or re-set the position of an awl blade so that it is angled properly  to the flat side of the handle.  I need basic good craftsmanship from the manufacturer.

Edited July 12, 2024 by Aventurine

[Littlef]

The sizes really are not standardized.  I've found that if you look at 5 different makers, each one numbers them sequentially, but the widths are different.  I have found that typically the makers do give specs on their websites to give a little clarification.  They normally give specs in how thick of leather for the tool, shown in in mm, versus showing it in Ounces.  A quick google search should yield charts with corresponding thicknesses compared to ounces.  Also - There's not a hard set rule on how much you have to bevel.  In general, the thicker the leather, the wider the bevel, but it comes down to making a bevel, and determining if you like how it looks.    I keep 3 bevels on hand.  A skinny one, a medium one, and a larger one (I have no clue what the numbers are), and they  cover pretty much anything I'm doing. 

Edited July 12, 2024 by Littlef

[zuludog]

26 minutes ago, Aventurine said:

Thank you.   I have looked around quite a bit and I just don't find the specifics I need -- "With *this* weight leather use *this* size of *this* tool".  It's mostly "Here's the kind of tool I use to do this kind of thing".   I'm grateful for the more specific advice here.

As you do leatherwork you'll learn for yourself what combination of size/weight/type of leather & tool & thread you'll need, and it will come naturally -- it's called 'gaining experience'.

But you already have an advantage over me - I don't do carving/stamping/moulding/tooling, and I've never used buckskin or rawhide

Search YT for Harry Rogers. He has videos on general leatherwork, including beginners, and also a series on making handmade shoes

Edited July 12, 2024 by zuludog

[Mablung]

As alluded to already, there’s a lot of “art” and feel to this stuff. You’ll learn what you like using and what produces the look you want. I even do some beveling with my round knife, if my push beveler doesn’t produce the effect I want. 

[SUP]

@Aventurine , just a thought...

It appears you are so new to leatherwork that you are still learning about the tools. Making buckskin moccasins is very different from making structured shoes.  I understand that you want to jump in there but why not try something simpler so that you get the hang of leatherwork itself, get the knowledge and then think of moving to making shoes. You can start with a few simple tools, get an idea of stitching other leather, cutting it, working with it, (so different from buckskin - I know - I went that path too but not to other shoes) and then work your way to shoes. You 

 

Edited July 12, 2024 by SUP

[Aventurine]

@FredK....those look like...manicure tools??  Brilliant!

[fredk]

Yup, they are also sold as 'cuticle cutters' in the beauty section of ebay. They are sold as leather working tools at about £/$5 each but as cuticle cutters they are cheaper at under £/$5 for ten. Those ones are actually £3.80 for ten

[Aventurine]

Billy, Zulu, Chuck, Fred, Mablung, Little, Sup, Thank you all!