Littlef

That's neat. I've seen similar patterns on etsy. It would make a fun Halloween costume.

I think I might be tempted to use a product like a Sno-Seal, used to waterproof hiking boots and other leather outdoor equipment; especially if it'll be worn for extended periods through rain and weather. Adding any product can change coloration (usually darkening), and could potentially cause leather to bend or flex, so it's always advisable to test it first in an inconspicuous place.

YEA, that's beautiful!

Looks like a good functional holster. that's do the job. well done.

Good Luck! - One thing on doubling the foam. What I was finding is the foam can fold and make almost a 90 degree turn, whereas leather makes a larger curved radius when folding it, which takes more material to round the bend. When I glued 2 foam sheets together its much stiffer, and makes a larger radius when folding it over. It was more a factor of how the dual layers bend and fold that helped me, versus just a matter of really how thick they are. Although when I make holsters, I'm using 8-10 oz weight + 2-3oz liner, so its pretty thick.

One thing I do when I make a foam mock up of a pattern, I bond two sheets of foam together. The extra thickness, and stiffness of the two layers, makes a more realistic radius when I fold over the holster to sew the two sides together. - Another thing I've found, if I happen to cut out a holster, and it winds up being too short to sew when I fold it over. I can add a welt .... a thick welt up to like 1/2 inch, and make up the difference. Then the two sides don't have to stretch so much to come together.

something like this. a brand name doesn't matter. RYOBI Metal Cleaning Compound Set (6-Piece) A92601 - The Home Depot . Home Depot has a little set with various compounds for different metal types.

No, I don't have a recommendation on a type of polish. just look for a metal polish that is for iron and steel. - the aggressiveness of the polish is typically categorized by the hardness of the metal they are intended to polish. You could buff the handle/shaft of the stamps to clean them up, but I would avoid the face. you could use a polish or a wax to give them some protection. I would avoid putting wax or polish on the face of the stamp. I would expect that would just attract dirt that would get transferred to the leather.

+1 on evaporust for rust removal. I use it all the time. From there, I would possibly go over it with some finish sandpaper - 400 grit would probably do it. Or, if it doesn't need sanding, I'd hit it with some metal polish and a felt buffing pad on my dremel. If its iron, you'd want to use a more aggressive polishing compound. probably green -- or whatever color the compound manufacturer made for iron/steel. I wouldn't buff out the ends of stamps. That would only round off the details in the stamp. Evaporust would still remove rust, but if they don't work satisfactorily after that, they might be at the end of their service life. You could always try buffing them, but just keep in mind, the more buffing, the more definition in the stamp would be lost.

looks like etsy has a couple pages of variations. I didn't see a pattern, but they might give ya some ideas.

that's really neat. I'm sure she's thrilled with it.

That is really neat. Well done. I love it! Ballad of Buster Scruggs is a good movie. I've been thinking of trying to make a gun belt like his.

I've never done it on a knife sheath. I've added a toeplug with a magnet in it to a holster, which worked well. I can't image it would collect any more dirt than a regular sheath.

That is nice!

yea, that's a very similar in concept! looks good. thanks.

Those look really good!. I like it. I just picked up an 1858 Remington. When I get some conversion cylinders I want to make a Pale Rider rig with loops for the swapable cylinders.

That's definitely a unique knife, and a good looking rig. I'm not sure why she would want to have the gun behind her back. Having a gun in the small of your back is a good place for concealed carry, but its not very concealed when wearing a full gun belt. As long as it works for her. It looks great, and I'm sure she'll be thrilled with it.

That looks nice. Its a tank. That construction should make it last forever.

I haven't ever seen plated rivets. I would guess that plating might be compromised when setting a rivet. They do make brass rivets. I know some people cut a thin leather washer, and glue it over a rivet sometimes. That can be helpful on a rivet head inside a holster, to ensure it doesn't scratch a firearm. For an exterior rivet head, I normally take a needle file and clean off any burrs. If I'm feeling ambitious, I might take some fine sand paper and lightly sand the head to smooth any edges. to color a copper rivet you can use brass black or cold bluing to subdue it. I'd recommend doing the cold blue first, then clean up the rivet, and then set it. I had a rifle stock cheek riser that I riveted some bullet loops on it. I used the cold blue after the fact. Copper oxidation is green. some of that green bled into the surrounding leather. Live and learn that its best to oxidize first, clean up the copper, and then set it. - another option might be to use a Chicago screw instead of a rivet. Those come is many different finishes.

since its basically trash, as-is, you could always cut the seams and see if you could take it apart. once you got it apart you could determine if its worth even attempting to replicate. It doesn't look like a real saddle for use on a horse. If its just going to be more of a decoration type piece, it wouldn't have to be 100% structural. - Or you could just trash it, and move on with life.

Mold is really hard to get rid of. It grows roots/tendrils that grow and extend throughout an area. you can try vinegar. bleach can help, but then you are bleaching the leather. There are anti mold products at the hardware store that you could try, but they might also discolor the leather. That leather also looks like is rotting (from what I can see in the photo.) I think the damage is done, and at this point, I don't think there's a way to return the leather to an acceptable state. It would probably have to be rebuilt from new leather.

That's really neat. Glad to hear the class went well.

I do the same basic thing. I learned by not leaving enough space. I set my stitches in further than they need to be, and then that gives me room to sand the edges even and bevel. (hopefully.)

People are ridiculous. She knew 20 bucks wasn't remotely in the ballpark.

If you don't have everything, maybe you could pick up a handful of pieces that seem most interesting/useful to you, to try and get the most out of the class. also, there's a lot of similarities in the types of stamps. Maybe if you don't have the exact stamp listed, but have a similar style/type, you could substitute it, to work on the technique, even if its not the exact stamp. If you show up with "most" of the stuff, he "might" have a few extra tools, and he might let you borrower one. I wouldn't bank on it, but if you get in the class, and they are working with a tool you don't have, it doesn't hurt to ask, and say that a tool you haven't bought yet. -just a few thoughts.