Littlef

I've never done it on a knife sheath. I've added a toeplug with a magnet in it to a holster, which worked well. I can't image it would collect any more dirt than a regular sheath.

That is nice!

yea, that's a very similar in concept! looks good. thanks.

Those look really good!. I like it. I just picked up an 1858 Remington. When I get some conversion cylinders I want to make a Pale Rider rig with loops for the swapable cylinders.

That's definitely a unique knife, and a good looking rig. I'm not sure why she would want to have the gun behind her back. Having a gun in the small of your back is a good place for concealed carry, but its not very concealed when wearing a full gun belt. As long as it works for her. It looks great, and I'm sure she'll be thrilled with it.

That looks nice. Its a tank. That construction should make it last forever.

I haven't ever seen plated rivets. I would guess that plating might be compromised when setting a rivet. They do make brass rivets. I know some people cut a thin leather washer, and glue it over a rivet sometimes. That can be helpful on a rivet head inside a holster, to ensure it doesn't scratch a firearm. For an exterior rivet head, I normally take a needle file and clean off any burrs. If I'm feeling ambitious, I might take some fine sand paper and lightly sand the head to smooth any edges. to color a copper rivet you can use brass black or cold bluing to subdue it. I'd recommend doing the cold blue first, then clean up the rivet, and then set it. I had a rifle stock cheek riser that I riveted some bullet loops on it. I used the cold blue after the fact. Copper oxidation is green. some of that green bled into the surrounding leather. Live and learn that its best to oxidize first, clean up the copper, and then set it. - another option might be to use a Chicago screw instead of a rivet. Those come is many different finishes.

since its basically trash, as-is, you could always cut the seams and see if you could take it apart. once you got it apart you could determine if its worth even attempting to replicate. It doesn't look like a real saddle for use on a horse. If its just going to be more of a decoration type piece, it wouldn't have to be 100% structural. - Or you could just trash it, and move on with life.

Mold is really hard to get rid of. It grows roots/tendrils that grow and extend throughout an area. you can try vinegar. bleach can help, but then you are bleaching the leather. There are anti mold products at the hardware store that you could try, but they might also discolor the leather. That leather also looks like is rotting (from what I can see in the photo.) I think the damage is done, and at this point, I don't think there's a way to return the leather to an acceptable state. It would probably have to be rebuilt from new leather.

That's really neat. Glad to hear the class went well.

I do the same basic thing. I learned by not leaving enough space. I set my stitches in further than they need to be, and then that gives me room to sand the edges even and bevel. (hopefully.)

People are ridiculous. She knew 20 bucks wasn't remotely in the ballpark.

If you don't have everything, maybe you could pick up a handful of pieces that seem most interesting/useful to you, to try and get the most out of the class. also, there's a lot of similarities in the types of stamps. Maybe if you don't have the exact stamp listed, but have a similar style/type, you could substitute it, to work on the technique, even if its not the exact stamp. If you show up with "most" of the stuff, he "might" have a few extra tools, and he might let you borrower one. I wouldn't bank on it, but if you get in the class, and they are working with a tool you don't have, it doesn't hurt to ask, and say that a tool you haven't bought yet. -just a few thoughts.

My impression is that Jim Linnell isn’t teaching a beginner class. Tandy might provide tools for their classes, because they expect beginners will need tools, and will buy tools. Jim is teaching a class to help experienced leather workers refine their craft. He’s there to teach and not peddle Tandy tools. It’s hard to teach how to use a tool, if you don’t have the tool. It would be a pain to lug the slab, but also Jim isn’t going to haul around 30 slabs of granite. there always books and youtube if this particular class requisites don’t work for you. Maybe at some point in the future you will build up the tool chest where having the requisite tools isn't overwhelming to buy at once. They certainly add up fast.

I don't pitch mine. every now and then I strain out any big junk floating in it. It can turn reddish and murky, but I've not noticed that changes how it works. If it seems like its weakening, I add a little more vinegar, and a bit more steel wool. BUT, in only takes 2-3 days to bring a new batch up to a workable strength, if you don't feel like hanging on to it.

If mine develops rust or sludge, I run it through a strainer to get any big junk out of it. If I use it and it seems to be not as potent, I Just top it off with more vinegar and stuff in some more steel wool. In a couple days it back to regular strength. it’s vinegar so it has that smell, but it dissipates with time. If you put nose on it and look for vinegar, you’ll probably pick up hints of it. But using the leather and storing it with other gear, I don’t notice the smell. I've seen it used at mild strength, to purposely give a gray aged look, and when adding some distressing it can really give the been-there historic look.

The dyeing isn't ever exact, cause it has to do with the amount of tannins in the leather, and the concentration of the vinegarroon. I always use distilled white vinegar, but that part probably doesn't change anything. You can always soak the leather in it longer. You can also do multiple dips in the vinegarroon. If you think its not dark enough, dip it again. Another ting worth experimenting with is brewing some black tea, and applying the tea, and letting it soak in before dipping in the vinegaroon. Tea has tannins, so that can help intensify the effect. I've never needed to the that on leather, but I use that when aging wood with vinegarroon. I've noticed leather usually looks a little grey until I oil it with neatsfoot. Once I oil the leather, it significantly darkens, and mine is usually winds up very deep black with no grey left. Make sure after dipping it in the vinegarroon to also run it through water and baking soda to neutralize the acid. Also I normally let it dry about 8-12 hours or so, and then I oil it. Once I didn't oil it for a several days, and the leather turned hard and brittle.

I regularly mix lamb tallow and beeswax. It's a traditional lubricant for black powder firearms. I tweak the consistency with olive oil depending on outside temperatures, and how dense/hard I want it to set up.

Nice lookin strap. I'd be proud to have that on any of my instruments.

That's a good looking note pad! I need to make something along those lines to track all my load date when I go to the range.

That’s really nice, I’m sure he will be thrilled.

You’re welcome sir. Glad to help.

Looks like leathers crafters journal has it. https://leathercraftersjournal.com/product-category/dvds/?product_orderby=popularity&add-to-cart=17742&product_order=desc&product_view=list

This forum has an "Items for Sale" section. I would recommend checking there.

good clean lookin rig. Its built like a tank. love it.