Littlef

That’s really nice, I’m sure he will be thrilled.

You’re welcome sir. Glad to help.

Looks like leathers crafters journal has it. https://leathercraftersjournal.com/product-category/dvds/?product_orderby=popularity&add-to-cart=17742&product_order=desc&product_view=list

This forum has an "Items for Sale" section. I would recommend checking there.

good clean lookin rig. Its built like a tank. love it.

I dig it. That's cool!

A pair of channel lock/water pump pliers or a pipe wrench should give you the torque twist off the cap. - be careful not to crush the sheet metal can. I've learned to wipe the threads inside the lid, and the threads on the can with a solvent every couple of uses. I use acetone to clean the threads. It does a good job dissolving contact cements.

Looks like this thread was resurrected from a decade ago. If looking for pine tar, if you search under boat restoration or rifle stock restoration you’ll get hits. I have pine tar I used to when restoring an old Finnish rifle. I Bought it years ago and I don’t remember where I ordered it from. https://www.pinetarworld.com/product-category/pine-tar/

I think it still looks really cool. I dig it.

My guess, for what it's worth, is that the laser is not what is coloring the leather. I did a quick google, and found some industrial manufacturing lasers that can etch metal and glass with some sort of coloring process included, but I found no references to being able to do that to leather. Nor have I ever heard of laser type machine being marketed with that ability. I wind up in the same place. I got nothing.

Me too. Left handed, but right eye dom. I shoot pistol left, but I shoot rifle and shotgun right.

Good lookin' holster Chuck.

I was referring to a resist such as this image. Its used when antiquing leather. It seals the leather so that antiquing gel only adheres to the areas that are tooled, and the antiquing gel will wipe back off of the portions of smooth leather. It might work.... it might not.

Another untested thought... seal the leather with a resist. Then burn your image through the sealant, and wipe the color over the image and wipe off, similar to how you'd apply an antique. maybe?

I gauge how much oil is needed by how fast it absorbs. I put on light coats. The first couple coats soak in almost immediately. After a couple coats, it starts taking longer to soak in. It's not an exact science, but once it starts taking several seconds to soak in, I decide that's probably enough. I typically only oil the grain side and not the flesh side. I've noticed If I oil the flesh side , it gets saturated and mushy. I can better control it by just applying to the grain side.

I mainly use the cheap disposable paint brushes from the hardware store. I have lambswool/fleece, but I mainly use those for applying dye. I also have a bag of old t-shirts that I cut into rags that I use sometimes.

that's really cool. Well done.

Well Done. Stick it to'em.

Those are nice!

I do the same, mix tallow and bees wax. In the winter I might add a bit of olive oil if the mix is too hard in the colder temps.

wow, 3 gallons of Tallow would keep me stocked for black powder for a long long time.

I've never seen a metal quick disconnect - The photo looks like those are standard attachments for a backpack. I think if you were needing the strength of metal, you have to re-work it for a regular buckle or a frog, like on a military rifle sling. You could also possibly make a carabiner go through a loop of leather. (Trying to think outside the box.)

cool, thanks!

that's kinda cool. I'm planning on making a tool roll, and canvas cover in duck cloth. That would be helpful working out how to hem all the edges.