Littlef

I don't pitch mine. every now and then I strain out any big junk floating in it. It can turn reddish and murky, but I've not noticed that changes how it works. If it seems like its weakening, I add a little more vinegar, and a bit more steel wool. BUT, in only takes 2-3 days to bring a new batch up to a workable strength, if you don't feel like hanging on to it.

If mine develops rust or sludge, I run it through a strainer to get any big junk out of it. If I use it and it seems to be not as potent, I Just top it off with more vinegar and stuff in some more steel wool. In a couple days it back to regular strength. it’s vinegar so it has that smell, but it dissipates with time. If you put nose on it and look for vinegar, you’ll probably pick up hints of it. But using the leather and storing it with other gear, I don’t notice the smell. I've seen it used at mild strength, to purposely give a gray aged look, and when adding some distressing it can really give the been-there historic look.

The dyeing isn't ever exact, cause it has to do with the amount of tannins in the leather, and the concentration of the vinegarroon. I always use distilled white vinegar, but that part probably doesn't change anything. You can always soak the leather in it longer. You can also do multiple dips in the vinegarroon. If you think its not dark enough, dip it again. Another ting worth experimenting with is brewing some black tea, and applying the tea, and letting it soak in before dipping in the vinegaroon. Tea has tannins, so that can help intensify the effect. I've never needed to the that on leather, but I use that when aging wood with vinegarroon. I've noticed leather usually looks a little grey until I oil it with neatsfoot. Once I oil the leather, it significantly darkens, and mine is usually winds up very deep black with no grey left. Make sure after dipping it in the vinegarroon to also run it through water and baking soda to neutralize the acid. Also I normally let it dry about 8-12 hours or so, and then I oil it. Once I didn't oil it for a several days, and the leather turned hard and brittle.

I regularly mix lamb tallow and beeswax. It's a traditional lubricant for black powder firearms. I tweak the consistency with olive oil depending on outside temperatures, and how dense/hard I want it to set up.

Nice lookin strap. I'd be proud to have that on any of my instruments.

That's a good looking note pad! I need to make something along those lines to track all my load date when I go to the range.

That’s really nice, I’m sure he will be thrilled.

You’re welcome sir. Glad to help.

Looks like leathers crafters journal has it. https://leathercraftersjournal.com/product-category/dvds/?product_orderby=popularity&add-to-cart=17742&product_order=desc&product_view=list

This forum has an "Items for Sale" section. I would recommend checking there.

good clean lookin rig. Its built like a tank. love it.

I dig it. That's cool!

A pair of channel lock/water pump pliers or a pipe wrench should give you the torque twist off the cap. - be careful not to crush the sheet metal can. I've learned to wipe the threads inside the lid, and the threads on the can with a solvent every couple of uses. I use acetone to clean the threads. It does a good job dissolving contact cements.

Looks like this thread was resurrected from a decade ago. If looking for pine tar, if you search under boat restoration or rifle stock restoration you’ll get hits. I have pine tar I used to when restoring an old Finnish rifle. I Bought it years ago and I don’t remember where I ordered it from. https://www.pinetarworld.com/product-category/pine-tar/

I think it still looks really cool. I dig it.

My guess, for what it's worth, is that the laser is not what is coloring the leather. I did a quick google, and found some industrial manufacturing lasers that can etch metal and glass with some sort of coloring process included, but I found no references to being able to do that to leather. Nor have I ever heard of laser type machine being marketed with that ability. I wind up in the same place. I got nothing.

Me too. Left handed, but right eye dom. I shoot pistol left, but I shoot rifle and shotgun right.

Good lookin' holster Chuck.

I was referring to a resist such as this image. Its used when antiquing leather. It seals the leather so that antiquing gel only adheres to the areas that are tooled, and the antiquing gel will wipe back off of the portions of smooth leather. It might work.... it might not.

Another untested thought... seal the leather with a resist. Then burn your image through the sealant, and wipe the color over the image and wipe off, similar to how you'd apply an antique. maybe?

I gauge how much oil is needed by how fast it absorbs. I put on light coats. The first couple coats soak in almost immediately. After a couple coats, it starts taking longer to soak in. It's not an exact science, but once it starts taking several seconds to soak in, I decide that's probably enough. I typically only oil the grain side and not the flesh side. I've noticed If I oil the flesh side , it gets saturated and mushy. I can better control it by just applying to the grain side.

I mainly use the cheap disposable paint brushes from the hardware store. I have lambswool/fleece, but I mainly use those for applying dye. I also have a bag of old t-shirts that I cut into rags that I use sometimes.

that's really cool. Well done.

Well Done. Stick it to'em.