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Littlef

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Everything posted by Littlef

  1. lol, that you sir. With great knowledge comes great responsibility.
  2. wow, that's a slick simple solution to follow the curve. Thank you for showing this Dwight!
  3. Surfing around on etsy is good for brainstorming ideas.
  4. Thats really nice stewart!
  5. Thanks y'all, I appreciate it!
  6. Thank you very much!! I took my time on this to really work out little issues in the design. I think the extra time and effort paid off.
  7. I made this shoulder holster for a friend of mine. It my interpretation of Doc Holiday's shoulder holster from the movie Tombstone, (with a few tweaks with my own creative license.) This is first time I’ve made something for someone else. It kind hurt to give it up, lol. I started with a pattern from London Jacks on Etsy. Then, I found auction photos of the actual holster, and I modified it enough that there is almost no part of the purchased pattern left. Also, Chakotay has a nice YouTube video where he makes his version. I used his idea of how to make the belt loops on the back. My friend picked up the holster over the weekend. He was thrilled, which was a good feeling.
  8. Holy Mackerel those boots are incredible. - The purse is as well. I need to re-think my whole game.
  9. Sounds like you just "made" $500 bucks. right place at the right time.
  10. Thats spectacular
  11. I don't think RTC resist was formulated to go over the top of paint. Normally a resist is applied to unfinished leather to keep dye and antiquing from absorbing into the leather. I think both the acrylic paint and the rtc are water based, which is why its bleeding the red from the paint. Reds are typically pretty potent, and are challenging with bleeding. This is probably going to take some experimentation. I think I might experiment with an acrylic varnish on some scrap to see if you can achieve the needing sealing over the top of the paint.
  12. This is really an opinion question and not a true rule. You've made them out of 5-6 oz, so you know what those look like, and how they function. In my opinion, 5-6 is really light for an axe, that will get packed in an offroad vehicle amongst other steel tools. Its gonna get banged around in transport, and truly carried in the forest to clear trails. I've made plenty of 8-10 oz holsters, which would be suitable for an axe. Heavier leathers will be more durable over time. 9/10/11 would be even better for durability. I would not recommend going any lighter than the 5-6 oz you've already been using, and I think you'll find over time, the 5--6 oz will get beat up pretty quick.
  13. like with most things, a little maintenance goes a long ways.
  14. Thats good to know Fred. I expected that the leather formula probably had more flexibility. I'll have to try it sometime.
  15. acetone does a good job cleaning up barge. I learned if I take a q-tip ..or even a piece of paper towel, and wipe the inside of the lid, and the threads of the can with acetone, after every couple of uses, the lid doesn't stick anymore. Before that, it stuck once, and I had to use a pipe wrench to unscrew it.
  16. One thing to add, which may be obvious. - Make sure your work surface is nice and clean, so you don't beat up the nice stamping while slicking the back. It might be worth laying down a soft t-shirt type material to prevent any scrapes or abrasions. As long as the top -stamped side is dry, it shouldn't affect the stamping. I'd probably be a little more gentle than normal, knowing that the other side is the nice pretty outward facing side.
  17. For a spur, I'd check dimensions on my boots. I'd place the spur on my boot, and use a tailor's tape measure to verify the distances from post to post. (I actually plan to make some spur straps, maybe this fall, and will have to work that out.)
  18. Baking soda neutralizes the acid, not the smell of vinegar. I don’t think there’s much you can do. It dissipates over time. I use it quite a bit, and I don’t even notice the smell of vinegar after a few weeks. I think if it bothers you, use a black dye instead of vinegar
  19. I use Barge, but the only place I've found it locally is at the Tandy Store. I also have some Aquilium 315, which works, but the original barge makes a significantly stronger bond. I'm getting close to the bottom of my can of Barge. Next time I go into Tandy, I plan on picking up a new can. If I couldn't get it locally, I'd probably try Weldwood, but as long as its available at Tandy, I'll keep using it.
  20. My guess is that the powdery substance might be mold spores. I occasionally buy historic military rifle slings / ammo belts, etc. I see powdery mold spores on them from time to time. If its mold, it can be difficult to remove. The mold actually can have a root system that grows into the leather. you clean it off, and it grows back in a few weeks. I would first just try to clean it off with a 50-50 mixture of water and vinegar. I'd also test the leather first some place inconspicuous to make sure it wont affect the finish. You could also try the same thing with bleach, which is stronger..... but also might have an affect on the leather finish. Hardware stores have fungicides. If you try those and the mold keeps coming back, I'd try a specific fungicide. As always. Test it in an inconspicuous place before treating the whole case to make sure its not going to affect the leather color/shade/finish quality.
  21. well done!! you did an awesome job replicating it. Packing Iron is such a great book.
  22. I have not had that problem. I recommend trying it and checking to make sure it printed correctly.
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