painting leather Leather prep before acrylic paint application

[Herbie]

I have been you tubing and searching this site for a generally accepted way to prep leather before adding acrylic paint. 

This is what I have come up with:

tooling

apply neats foot oil or other treatment if needed

deglaze

dye and or stain

apply acrylic paint

I am not sure about doing anything over the paint as I do not want it to be removed by antique or resolene or whatever as I have read can happen. 

I am unsure of these first steps and unsure of when to apply antique and a sealer.  If anyone or several could chime in with all the steps in an acceptable order and any precautions I will

be very grateful and appreciative! 

 

[fredk]

I do nothing to 'prep' the leather. I paint straight on the raw leather, whether its been stamped or not, or on dyed leather. imo  the application of nfo before painting may inhibit the paint adhering

After painting I apply a couple of coats of thinned acrylic varnish , and only then apply any antique if required, but very carefully 

I've been doing it this way for 24 years now

[TomG]

I mainly make straps of various sorts.
I almost never use NFO as I never mastered putting it on thin enough to not get blotchy.
I case, stamp and dry. Then Dye.
I use Fiebings Pro dyes and dip dye 99% of my stuff.
Once dry, I buff either by hand or, in the case of black or dark brown, with a buffing wheel in a bench mounted buffer.
I then apply Leather Balm with Atom Wax to the back, liberally, and then to the front. I avoid waxing any lettering or places that I'll paint. I use a Q-Tip or small rag to apply it to the outline of the letters or design.
After the front, I put the strap over a round bar in a "U" shape, and pull tight and pull it back and forth a few times, front and back. This breaks up the fibers a bit and in most cases, make the strap limp and limber.
If there looks to be any gloss, I may hit the letter surfaces with a piece of sandpaper or scratch it lightly with an Exacto blade.
I then apply the acrylic paint using little disposable 5ml, needle tip bottles (Amazon).
I try to use Angelus paints now. I used to use the $2/bottle ones from Hobby Lobby/Michaels. I found that I usually had to mix a little Liquitex PouringMedium in (not too much) to make is flow properly. I do the smae on the Angelus. if needed. But, they produce virtually no brush marks.
Another product I've used is Ready-To-Pour acrylic paint. Those need no additives.
Have fun!

 

[Herbie]

20 hours ago, fredk said:

I do nothing to 'prep' the leather. I paint straight on the raw leather, whether its been stamped or not, or on dyed leather. imo  the application of nfo before painting may inhibit the paint adhering

After painting I apply a couple of coats of thinned acrylic varnish , and only then apply any antique if required, but very carefully 

I've been doing it this way for 24 years now

Thank you for the help and good info.

16 hours ago, TomG said:

I mainly make straps of various sorts.
I almost never use NFO as I never mastered putting it on thin enough to not get blotchy.
I case, stamp and dry. Then Dye.
I use Fiebings Pro dyes and dip dye 99% of my stuff.
Once dry, I buff either by hand or, in the case of black or dark brown, with a buffing wheel in a bench mounted buffer.
I then apply Leather Balm with Atom Wax to the back, liberally, and then to the front. I avoid waxing any lettering or places that I'll paint. I use a Q-Tip or small rag to apply it to the outline of the letters or design.
After the front, I put the strap over a round bar in a "U" shape, and pull tight and pull it back and forth a few times, front and back. This breaks up the fibers a bit and in most cases, make the strap limp and limber.
If there looks to be any gloss, I may hit the letter surfaces with a piece of sandpaper or scratch it lightly with an Exacto blade.
I then apply the acrylic paint using little disposable 5ml, needle tip bottles (Amazon).
I try to use Angelus paints now. I used to use the $2/bottle ones from Hobby Lobby/Michaels. I found that I usually had to mix a little Liquitex PouringMedium in (not too much) to make is flow properly. I do the smae on the Angelus. if needed. But, they produce virtually no brush marks.
Another product I've used is Ready-To-Pour acrylic paint. Those need no additives.
Have fun!

 

Thanks for the good info and help.

 

I am more confident going into my first paint project now. 

 

 

[HandyDave]

I do alot of painted details using acrylic paints I get at the hobby store. If you don't allow the paint to cure good it can streak or lift a bit when applying finish of choice. I usually let my painted pieces set for couple days before adding 50/50 resolene or other top coats. Black and white seem to be the most likely to have any issues in my experience. If black paint is used on a light or natural color leather and you don't let it cure good I've had it streak lightly as I've done top coat. If it I cured good then no problems. And I've had plain white kinda yellow after adding topcoat. My fix I've found for this yellowing is I add just a drop or 2 of a super light beige/tan paint to my palette and mix it into the white. It doesn't change the color enough so it's not white anymore but something about adding that slight bit of different pigment and I don't get no yellowing after doing top coat.

[Herbie]

9 hours ago, HandyDave said:

I usually let my painted pieces set for couple days before adding 50/50 resolene or other topcoats.

What other topcoats do you use, and which is preferred?

Thanks for the info in the post above!

[HandyDave]

12 hours ago, Herbie said:

What other topcoats do you use,

I use 50/50 resolene or leather sheen thinned down just slightly. Those are the main 2 top coats I use for everything. I've tryed a few other types and brands but those 2 are what I've found to work the best for me. 

[Herbie]

I will try the 50/50 resolene, I already have some mixed up.  Thanks for the info all of you!