WriterSteven Report post Posted October 7 I’m trying to simplify my life a little, but I’m not sure if what I’m thinking about would even work. I have several sleigh bell door hangers that are stamped and ready to be dyed. I’ve experimented with several Pro Dye color combinations and I have the color about where I want it, but I’m super worried about starting the dip dyeing process. My samples pieces sometimes come out looking nice, then I’ll try the same colors, same dye on a second piece and it might be patchy or a little uneven. (Same hide.) Since I already have a couple dozen of these cut and stamped, I’ll have to pray they all come out ok. I bought a couple of Preval sprayers to try as well. So my original question… In the future, can I just buy a nice light brown 8 to 9 Oz veg tan, cut, stamp and dye a dark border around it? Does anyone sell such a thing dyed, but without a top coat so I can add my border dye and stamps. I’m not sure if I could wet and stamp finished leather…? Thanks for any advice you guys have on any of the above. I sure appreciate it. Steven Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DieselTech Report post Posted October 7 I have heard some of the well known professionals say. Just because 1 piece of leather dyes the way you want. Don't always expect another piece of leather to dye the same, even thou it was cut from the same hide. I think you might like the Preval sprayers. You can spray dye different effects & colors. I broke down & bought a cordless air brush for applying dye. I have only used it twice but really like it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted October 7 3 hours ago, WriterSteven said: In the future, can I just buy a nice light brown Your answer is right there in that statement. Light brown. I do not know why . . . only know it happens . . . light browns . . . especially saddle tan . . . have a habit for some reason to like to come out a bit splotchy. The cure I found for that is to get a 1 inch bristle brush . . . some genuine neatsfoot oil . . . put a light but wet coat on the hair side of the leather . . . leave it for 24 hours . . . come back and dye it. I've had no more splotchy dye jobs since I started this. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted October 7 You can buy pre-dyed VegTan, And yes, you can wet it and stamp it. Just make sure that they have not pre-sealed it with anything. I dip dye almost all of my VT leathers. In general, I use Fiebings Pro dyes and dilute 50/50 with 90% alcohol. That works well, in general. Blues, Greens, Reds, etc, I usually have to so test dips whenever I buy a new bottle. I have had to dilute up to 80% for some colors like a Pink. The problem with that is that it gets too transparent and the leather shade comes through. I found a fix for that color by using Angelus Rise, cut 50/50. I don't use NFO, like Dwight mentioned, solely because I have never been able to apply it evenly enough to NOT make it blotchy <g>. You do NOT want me to ice your birthday cake, LOL. But, maybe if I had the time and patience to try it more and a few times, I'd develop a 'touch. But, yeah.. Try Dwight's method. I know a lot of the masters use it for their work with great success. Oh, Use PURE NFO, not the neatsfoot compound. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WriterSteven Report post Posted October 7 Thank you all for the information. When I go to buy dyed leather, does the non-sealed (for lack of a better term) have a name to be looking for? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mablung Report post Posted October 8 If you’re looking at veg tan, you’ll usually be able to tell by the surface finish appearance and texture whether it’s been sealed or not. Words like “glazed” are dead giveaways, too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yukonrookie Report post Posted 13 hours ago On 10/7/2024 at 9:32 PM, Dwight said: The cure I found for that is to get a 1 inch bristle brush . . . some genuine neatsfoot oil Pardon my barging in on the topic. I’m fairly new to leatherwork and have been putting on NFO before dying as well. Except I put it on with a cloth. Is there a specific reason to using the bristle brush? Also would you still deglaze after the NFO! Thank you kindly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted 5 hours ago 7 hours ago, Yukonrookie said: Pardon my barging in on the topic. I’m fairly new to leatherwork and have been putting on NFO before dying as well. Except I put it on with a cloth. Is there a specific reason to using the bristle brush? Also would you still deglaze after the NFO! Thank you kindly. I use a brush so I don't get it on my hands . . . no other reason. I've done leather for over 20 years . . . never found a reason to deglaze anything . . . other than when I'm gluing the hair side to something . . . then I seriously "deglaze" with a wire brush and some elbow grease. Far as I'm concerned . . . deglazing products were invented to sell a product that fulfills an imaginary need. Kind of like selling blinker fluid. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yukonrookie Report post Posted 2 hours ago 3 hours ago, Dwight said: I've done leather for over 20 years . . . never found a reason to deglaze anything That’s great to know. Until now my procedure was NFO, then after at least a few hours I’d deglaze with isopropyl and then apply my diluted dye. I had read comments and saw in YouTube videos people casing with diluted Isopropyl (50/50 to 75/35 ISO/Water) and I thought this could serve as my casing and deglazing solution, both at the same time. Any thoughts on this? I was wondering if it made sense to first apply NFO and later apply Alcohol. Wouldn’t that defeat the purpose? Oh, I got so much to learn lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
