Regis Report post Posted February 20, 2007 I've been picking up tips here and have gotten some offline help. I decided to post this "work-in-progress" so other beginners may pick something up from the responses. I decided to work on the cougars on page 13 of Stohlman's Figure Carving Finess book (thanks for the book tip Clay). Here is my latest effort. Please comment on how I can make more realistic and enhance mussle lines. Hopefully Clay or others will send some tips on this one. Below are links to couple of previous practices. last-cougar Painted cougar mentioned in other post Regis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan Hammons Report post Posted February 21, 2007 Hi Regis, One important thing to remember when figure or pictorial carving s when and where to reverse and double bevel. For most all of your fine detail and muscle tone work you will want to use a modeling spoon. Peter Main is a big fan of the modeling spoon and has designed one that you can purchase from him directly on his website. They were $35 when I bought mine and I feel that it is worth having if a person is serious about figure carving. It will come in handy for all your carving also and is very well made. I made a nice case for mine when I got it but the case never gets used . Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Johanna Report post Posted February 26, 2007 I love this place! Look what Clay did today! Clay's Cougar step-by-step Clay demonstrates and explains things so well sometimes I even think I could learn to carve! Johanna Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oscar B Report post Posted March 11, 2007 Hi Regis, One thing that help me to think of what part of design is closest to the viewer (or highest part of design what I want the viewer to see first) and start the carving there. Bevel that part then the next closes. This will give your design sense depth. I agree with Don comment. You may want to lighten (fade out) the ending of bevel not a abrupt cut off. This is also good for pare shading. Oscar Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolvenstien Report post Posted March 11, 2007 Two constructive comments, not ment to be harsh... in the botton of the tail... bevel deeper... and where you beveled along the back... it is nice and deep, but you want to roll your tool alittle bit so the back of the tool doesnt imprint into the leather... I am not sure how to word this to where you can understand it, cause if I heard someone telling me, I would be like HUH? if you look at your beveling on the back of the cat, you can see the entire surface of the tool and it is causing the entire tooled area to be below the top of the untooled leather.... look at Clays step by step and see how the back is deep, but it isnt the entire width of the tool, you want that slope to come up and meet the top of the leather, not come up a slop then dead end into a shelf, then come straight up to the top. Does that make since? This is something that I am still having issues with then i am not paying attention, and I have to remember to keep the tool at an angle so I sont allor the full surface to appear on the leather, just the tip and most of the surface.... Other than those two things, looks good.... I guess thow things speak out to me most cause they are things that I am working on myself... Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
