is there a way to fully cover a belt (1 1/2" wide), a belt bag and leather belt cover on a ligther shade?

[Patrice]

I finished a order for a customer, but the color on the belr, leather buckle and belt bag is far to dark, than it was supposed to be

Before a re-do de whole order again, is there a way to fully cover a belt (1 1/2" wide), a belt bag and leather belt cover on a ligther shade? I don't have a airbrush, only dauber and sheep wool scrap.

The guy want Fiebing dy "British Tan", but even if i try to used the least dy on the dauber, it's alway doing a job with streaks. When i want to do a more uniform finish, i'm ending with a piece of leather far more darker than i'm expecting.

So, i would like to know what can i use ? I'm willing to buy paint brush too...

I read back and forth The art of coloring leather from Al, but it seem that i cannot achivied a ligth color finish

So, please, help me I don't want to re-do the whole thing 5-6 times

P.s. I'll be posting pictures tonight or tomorow morning.

Edited February 23, 2007 by Patrice

[pepin1948]

I have the exact same problem - streaking or too dark - with Fiebing's British Tan. It's such a beautiful color when it works right.

[ClayB]

I finished a order for a customer, but the color on the belr, leather buckle and belt bag is far to dark, than it was supposed to be

Before a re-do de whole order again, is there a way to fully cover a belt (1 1/2" wide), a belt bag and leather belt cover on a ligther shade? I don't have a airbrush, only dauber and sheep wool scrap.

The guy want Fiebing dy "British Tan", but even if i try to used the least dy on the dauber, it's alway doing a job with streaks. When i want to do a more uniform finish, i'm ending with a piece of leather far more darker than i'm expecting.

You might try reducing the dye about 50 % with dye reducer or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol before you apply it. That should give you a lighter color. If it is too light, you can apply another (or several) coats. You can always make it darker, but not lighter.

I came across an article in an old magazine awhile back that I found interesting on spirit dyes. It said that they saturate the liquid with pigment and whatever can't be absorbed, settles to the bottom of the bottle. If some of the liquid evaporates, more pigment will settle to the bottom, keeping the color the same. It said that if you shake a bottle you will suspend more pigment into the liquid and make the color darker until the extra pigment settles back out. The article said to never shake your dyes before using them.

It's been said here before already, but always try your finishes on scraps before applying it to your finished projects. It's usually not fun to get surprises at that point.

[whinewine]

You might try bleaching??? Oxalic acid, which tandy no longer carries, or wood bleach from Lowes or Home Depot, might (or certainly might not) work to lighten it up. I believe there are other posts on this site on using bleach (maybe even one about using lemon juice). Unfortunately, the damage may be already done, and nothing may help at this point, but good luck. (Fiebing dyes tend to be dark, anyway.)

I find it better to spray my dyes, rather than use a dauber or a paintbrush. Daubers always streak and one ends up doing more applications of dye to try to even out the color- hence, the very deep colors. Spraying makes the colors go on lighter, uses less dye and you can spray multiple coats till you get the deepness you want. And the coverage seems to be more uniform on today's leathers which (tend to take dyes less evenly). For coverage of a large area, you can use a spraygun (which I don't have), or you can use the Preval units, which consist of a glass container (holding about 8 oz, or so) and a throwaway power unit. Tandy's prices are a little steep for them- i get mine at places that cater to autobody shops exclusively. For the price of what tandy charges for 1 power unit, i can get an entire unit (glass AND power unit) and have some money left over. Suggestion is to buy several complete units, plus extra power units- that way you can have several different dye colors ready, each in their own separate bottles, ready to go.

Edited February 23, 2007 by whinewine

[abn]

It said that if you shake a bottle you will suspend more pigment into the liquid and make the color darker until the extra pigment settles back out. The article said to never shake your dyes before using them.

I've found, especially with the 4 oz. dye bottles, that if you don't shake them, then you have to throw away the last 25% of the bottle because it's so pigment-loaded. Otherwise, the pigment-loaded dye gives the leather a glazed-over look, and you'll literally wear yourself out trying to buff all that stuff off the surface.

I always shake the bottle... I always use the dauber... and consequently, I always end up with really dark shades. I think the combination of cutting the dye with dye reducer and using an air brush are probably the best options for folks wanting a lighter color.

-Alex

[whinewine]

By the way, I should have clarified my post: the preval units are NOT airbrushes. (I do have an airbrush, which I use for close- in dyeing, but they are NOT good for large areas.- so I use the Preval units). I just feel that the dauber puts on too much dye, which, if it is spirit dye, tends to make the leather too hard & stiff because it removes too much of the oils in the leather. I've had customers even complain that the carved, but lightly sprayed leather was 'too hard'- so i worked in lots of lexol for them.

[pepin1948]

I always shake my stain and dye bottles, and almost always use a dauber. British Tan is the only dye I've ever had a more frequent than rare problem with.

If you want to remove the color all together and start over, I've successfully used a dye remover that Tandy sells. Sorry that I can't remember the product name.

[Patrice]

I always shake my stain and dye bottles, and almost always use a dauber. British Tan is the only dye I've ever had a more frequent than rare problem with.

If you want to remove the color all together and start over, I've successfully used a dye remover that Tandy sells. Sorry that I can't remember the product name.

I'm a bit limited when it comes to order chemicals products form USA. I'm not full time in the leather industrie and don't have a tax number, so, i can't import everything.

So, my only source is Tandy Leather in Barrie Ontario.

If you can give the name of the dye remover Wildorse, i would appreciated it!

The guy i'm making is order is comming sunday or monday. I'll show what the piece look like and he will decide if he'll all the thing!

[Patrice]

you can use the Preval units, which consist of a glass container (holding about 8 oz, or so) and a throwaway power unit. Tandy's prices are a little steep for them- i get mine at places that cater to autobody shops exclusively. For the price of what tandy charges for 1 power unit, i can get an entire unit (glass AND power unit) and have some money left over. Suggestion is to buy several complete units, plus extra power units- that way you can have several different dye colors ready, each in their own separate bottles, ready to go.

I foud a place near Montréal wher they sale preval spay unit in a box of 12. The kit contain' the power unit and a 8onces bottle. For a box of 12, the price is 84,50$ candian, and, if paid cash, i'm not paying taxes

So, you can be sure that i'll be heading to this place monday evening!

[abn]

By the way, I should have clarified my post: the preval units are NOT airbrushes. (I do have an airbrush, which I use for close- in dyeing, but they are NOT good for large areas.- so I use the Preval units). I just feel that the dauber puts on too much dye, which, if it is spirit dye, tends to make the leather too hard & stiff because it removes too much of the oils in the leather. I've had customers even complain that the carved, but lightly sprayed leather was 'too hard'- so i worked in lots of lexol for them.

Whinewine, thanks for clarifying. Now, a question on the Preval units -- is this something that should be done outside? I might like to try something like that, but would prefer not to blast the whole room with a new coat of British Tan...

[whinewine]

Whinewine, thanks for clarifying. Now, a question on the Preval units -- is this something that should be done outside? I might like to try something like that, but would prefer not to blast the whole room with a new coat of British Tan...

ABN:

Oh, yes- absolutely! The dye spread is relatively large, compared to an airbrush, and more coarse, too. Take it into an area outside where it is protected from wind (especially the wind that changes direction & blows back on you), & spray lightly (start OFF the leather & end OFF the leather...). Make several light coats rather than 1 heavy one. You'll find that sometimes some areas may take dye more readily than others, & that's not a bad thing, as you can stress the 'natural' qualities of leather rather than the boring uniformity of plastic or vinyl. I spray both sides of the project & I always do use a dauber to dye up the edges when I'm done spraying. Again, I don't know how they would compare to a spraygun, since I don't have one, but for a quick, nice overall dye job, they are perfectly fine

Patrice:

I paid $4.98 USD (including Pennsylvania State tax of 6%) for a complete unit just today. Your price quote works out to about $7.042 per each (Canadian $$). I don't know how that compares to the US-Canadian exchange rate of today...[ usually 75-80%]... if the rate is 75%, you'll be paying approximately the equivalent of $5.28 per kit- pretty darn good, if you ask me.

Anyway, Patrice: good luck! If you stress the qualities of leather (non- uniformity) he may be very happy with it as is. I always try to stress that we try to get the color match, but there is no guarantee, because of the aforementioned factors involved.

Also, you may also want to google "Preval" to see if there are any additional dealers in your area to see if you can get a better deal.

[Dale]

You may also consider using a folded rag. Fold it into a pad, get some dye on it (don't saturate it), and rub it into the leather in a circular motion. What doesn't get onto the leather eventually spreads out into the pad. At some point, your pad will become saturated, but you'll be able to judge how saturated it is by that time and more evenly apply it to the leather. When using this method you'll probably need to apply it several times. The benefit is, you'll be able to stop when you reach the color you're looking for.

[pepin1948]

I finally found it on the Tandy website: Fiebings Deglazer 4 oz., it's stock number 2105-01. It stinks to high Heaven, so make sure to use it outdoors.

My first experience with it was when I was making a matching set of tri leg stools for my parents' horse show barn stall front. I had used Super Shene as a resist and forgot to apply it to the carving's legs! This became REALLY obvious when I applied the stain to the rest of the project : Anyhow, I applied the deglazer to remove all the stain, redid the resist and reapplied the stain, and all was well!

I know sometimes one can convince a customer that leather can have a "unique" look, but I for one can't stand much streaking - call me a perfectionist...

[freak]

I did a guitar strap using British Tan after seeing the color on a wallet at TLF. Mine came out so much darker then the wallet, i thought no way was it the same color. I too used it with a dauber. I'm starting to notice evertime i use a dauber it comes out dark.

I've always had a hard time getting the desired shade of a color i'm after.

A few days later i tried my hand at the British Tan again. This time i cut pieces of a sponge up into ruffly 2"X2" squares. I would get the pieces and get them both moist. Add stain to one and rub it on and if needed go back over it with the other one. It came out much, much lighterr in color and even. Of course this would not work very well for small areas but it's been working well for me.

Know take note i'm still new to this so i'm just telling what has worked for me on something i've had the same results with.

Your friendly neighborhood freak

[wolvenstien]

If I bought 12 power units with glasses, TLF number 2019-00, at the club price of 5.59 each, it would come to 73.63 after 9.75% tax added. This wouls be a total of 85.39 canadian. Plus shipping to the border and re-shipping at the border to advoid customs.....

You are getting yourself a deal at 84 total.....

[K-Man]

I always mix reducer in with my dyes (other than black). The amount I use is 25-50% depending on what color I'm using - the most common amount of reducer is 25%. As ClayB mentioned, you can then apply the dye in "layers" to achieve the shade you're looking for.

I mix a gallon of dye with a quart of reducer and pour both into a large container. I then kind of mix/jiggle the container. I then spray the item with water from a spray bottle a couple of coats. Then I just dunk/dip the item (holster, in my instance) in the container. Pull it out, let the dye soak in, and then most often will dip it in again. I've learned how many "dips" it takes to bring the leather to the shade I want. I use nothing but Hermann Oak, so I've learned how it reacts with the dye. (Sometimes I'll use a different type of leather if I have a two-layer holster. This will give me a slight two-tone effect from the dye.) You get a much more consistant finish with dipping than trying to use a dauber or other applicator IMO. I then wipe off whatever excess dye there is and let it dry overnight. Then in the morning I buff off the remaining excess. Here's an example:

Here's a brown colored holster:

Edited February 24, 2007 by K-Man

[Patrice]

ABN:

Anyway, Patrice: good luck! If you stress the qualities of leather (non- uniformity) he may be very happy with it as is. I always try to stress that we try to get the color match, but there is no guarantee, because of the aforementioned factors involved.

Could you explain what do you mean by ''stress the qualities of leather''? I don't understand what you are saying

[whinewine]

Could you explain what do you mean by ''stress the qualities of leather''? I don't understand what you are saying

I mean, that, because it is leather, it has certain characteristics that plastic does not... there are brands, there are range markings from the animal scratching itself on brush or barbed wire, the thickness varies, the dye sometimes doesn't take as evenly or as uniformly throughout, etc, etc, it's all natural versus man made... in other words, "...if you want it absolutely the same throughout, go to walmart, buy plastic. If you want the character that leather offers, then by all means stick with leather. Feel it! Smell it! There is absolutely nothing quite like the real thing..."

[$$hobby]

what ive found to apply dye to large projects is to use a large SS pan. you can find them at you local outlets. we have a place here that gets alot of surplus, excess stuff and i found them there.

i just pour the dye into the pan and if possilbe dunk the whole piece in it and then remove it and let it drip the excess. i just finished 2 gun belts for my friend and they were the British tan color. they turned out fine too.

[Patrice]

:biggrin:

My client just came up today and guess what? He loved the product!

Even thoug the leather was far more darker, he love it!

Finally, everything went well! But rest assure that i will dilute my dye next time!

Thank's again for all of your tips, and rest assure that i will put them to the test!

I'll be sleeping well tonigth, better than teh lats time that i wrote my first post

Edited February 26, 2007 by Patrice

[whinewine]

Great, Patrice! I'm happy that everything turned out well! Russ

[Patrice]

Then I just dunk/dip the item (holster, in my instance) in the container. Pull it out, let the dye soak in, and then most often will dip it in again. I've learned how many "dips" it takes to bring the leather to the shade I want.

Great tip BUT, how do you hold the article you dunk in the dye solution? Did you drop the item or do you hold it, dip it and get it out? I can't figure... Perhaps because of an exhausive day at work, and because english is my second language Anyway, could you explain it a bit more to me?

[K-Man]

It depends on what I'm making. Basically every piece is held by its edges. This prevents any extra dye accumulating on the piece itself by the placing of my fingertips on the main portion of it.

If I'm doing a holster I place it in the dye so that it's completely covered/submerged. I usually will hold it there for a couple of seconds and move/swish it around. This will ensure to catch any areas where an air pocket area has been created from the molding of the holster. Then I pull it out and let it drip dry for a moment. If I'm just doing one dip, then I wipe off any excess with a rag. If I'm doing a second dip, then I just repeat the above steps.

If I'm doing a belt, I will take and run/pull the belt through the dye, starting at one end and until I get to the opposite end. Sometimes doing the belt is a two-person job because of the length. The second person will be on a step-stool/ladder right next to me, and as I run the belt through the dye, I will hand off the end to them to raise it up. I can usually do a belt that's less than 50" by myself, but I've had a couple that have been 70"+.

Hope this info helps.

[Patrice]

So, basically, you put on latex gloves, hold the piece by the edges then either dip-it or submerge the whole piece?

But, what about the leather where your fingers was? It must leave a blank spot? Do you change side and dip the part you where holding the moment ago?

Sorry for being so stupid, but i can't figure it

[K-Man]

Correct, I put on powder free latex gloves, grasp the piece by the edges, and dunk/submerge it in the dye. I don't necessarily have a really tight grip on the piece, as not much is needed. I've not had any spots on the edges where the dye has not taken. Part of that may be contributed to by the ability of the leather itself to absorb the dye. In addition, I use either oil based dyes or what's referred to by the company as professional grade dyes. On rare occasion I'll use spirit-based dyes.