Members Beehive Posted February 11 Members Report Posted February 11 1 minute ago, Klara said: Do you mind explaining that? The leather watch strap I am wearing right now is only from this summer, and I don't sleep wearing my watch, so it should be good for 2 years. But still... Other leather items I have owned have lasted for years and decades, and when something wore out, it was hardly ever (never, maybe?) the leather, but stitching, hardware, plastic parts... If you're wearing an investment. A watch worth thousands and thousands. For security, you should be replacing a leather strap every year under constant use. I know the strap will physically last a little longer. But buying a fresh strap is insurance against not losing the watch. San Martin, Citizen, Seiko, Orient, Casio. You can get away with using a worn out strap. Two years give or take. Quote
Members Cumberland Highpower Posted February 11 Members Report Posted February 11 On 2/10/2025 at 12:58 PM, dirk87 said: Just sharing the buildup of my latest strap. from top to bottom: Buttero leather Velodon (folded over) Salamander salpa Zermatt leather And a quick stitching test. 2.7mm pricking irons opened with 1.8mm flat awl. M40 is meisi linen M40 0.4 is Hua linen 0.4mm 0.4P is Hua poly 0.4mm O.3 is Hia line 0.3mm I admire this member's dedication to the craft. All that hand stitching just to showcase a sample. Only in Japan! lol Quote
Members dirk87 Posted February 12 Author Members Report Posted February 12 On 2/11/2025 at 4:47 AM, Beehive said: Yeah, watch straps are no joke. If you plan on selling them. It needs to survive being on the wrist. 24 hours a day, 7 days a week for 1 year. Then it'll be worn to the point it'll need to be replaced. Replaced for the security of the watch. You do excellent work. True, as mentioned i have no intention in selling. However the quality aspect interests me thats why im experimenting with reinforcements. So far i think Velodon is pretty durable. 15 hours ago, Beehive said: One of my most expensive watches. 22mm lugs. Extremely heavy watch. Ain't no dress watch band gonna hold it. What band could you make me, that'll hold this beast? What band is going to sooth my soul from fearing it ripping a leather strap? Because I'm the customer buying your stuff. Satisfy me. Because like I said. Watch bands are no joke. Nice watch! 11 hours ago, Beehive said: If you're wearing an investment. A watch worth thousands and thousands. For security, you should be replacing a leather strap every year under constant use. I know the strap will physically last a little longer. But buying a fresh strap is insurance against not losing the watch. San Martin, Citizen, Seiko, Orient, Casio. You can get away with using a worn out strap. Two years give or take. Sound true however i think there are allot of differences in construction which can really influence strap degradation. for example a fully veg tan only folded and stitch at the folds is not gonna last as long as a multi layer strap with reinforcement in between. Quote
Members dirk87 Posted February 12 Author Members Report Posted February 12 On 2/11/2025 at 10:09 AM, LeatherLegion said: Excellent work. A smaller flat awl for the lighter thread would be the only advise. Looks great regardless Thank you! yes agree, was trying to check which thread size looks the best with my awl. i feel like something in between 0.3mm and meisi M40 would be ideal. Maybe i should try M30 which is supposed to be 0.35mm i also noticed that with a high color contrast thread size looks bigger than with low contrast. Sounds logical but i didn’t realise so far Quote
Members dirk87 Posted February 12 Author Members Report Posted February 12 15 hours ago, Darren8306 said: I had one of those spring bars lose me a garmin watch a few years ago. I doubt I'll ever use them again. Not that I'm your target market anyway. I have lots of leather to play with, and won't even do it myself. Your work is beautiful, and probably not at all suitable for daily sweating and abuse I wish I could sew as carefully as you have. Thank you! Interesting topic because i dont understand mechanically the difference between normal and qr spring bars. I only can imagine the spring bar comes undone due to something catching or moving the lever thingy while wearing. Sounds indeed horrible to lose a watch like that. Quote
Members dirk87 Posted February 12 Author Members Report Posted February 12 (edited) 19 hours ago, Scoutmom103 said: you're watch straps are beautiful. Did you design the 3d printed folding jig? Thank you! Yes, i’m using allot 3d printed tools like cutting templates and jigs. I like it because i can redesign them on the go and make small improvements or adjustments. For example cutting templates. I like to cut and partially finish edges, then measure and adjust/reprint my template. A few tenths of a mm can be a big difference on the strap width. downside is i have box full of NOK tools LOL. I will post some pictures later of my process and tools. I guess for flat straps i kind of found a structured way to make them. Can also share design files if there is interest Edited February 12 by dirk87 Quote
Members dirk87 Posted February 12 Author Members Report Posted February 12 11 hours ago, Cumberland Highpower said: I admire this member's dedication to the craft. All that hand stitching just to showcase a sample. Only in Japan! lol It had more to do with me being unsure and indecisive and didn’t want to mess it up… maybe thats in line with Japanese culture LOL Quote
Members Klara Posted February 12 Members Report Posted February 12 13 hours ago, Beehive said: If you're wearing an investment. A watch worth thousands and thousands. For security, you should be replacing a leather strap every year under constant use. You still haven't said WHY. Good quality leather lasts a very long time. (And, IMHO, if you are buying a watch as an investment, you shouldn't wear it at all, definitely not 24/7, because it will get swirls or even scratches, which knock quite a lot off the future price. Even if the watch boom should hold, unlike stamp collecting or model trains...) @dirk87 Sorry for highjacking your thread! Your watch straps are beautiful! Quote
Members dirk87 Posted February 12 Author Members Report Posted February 12 9 minutes ago, Klara said: @dirk87 Sorry for highjacking your thread! Your watch straps are beautiful! Thank you and no problem highjacking, its an interesting discussion. I also agree a watch should be worn and there are always risks. Otherwise take an insurance or keep it in a safe as investment but i think there are better things than watches for that. A well constructed watch strap is a very low risk to fail imo, it should hold up well beyond after the stitches completely fail. I also deconstructed 2 older (~5 years) straps from oris and certina both were still intact but once opened i could see the reinforcement degrading(some kind of cotton weave i think). Not failing. Hard to test but i’m sure velodon will hold up much longer. The whole strength of a strap is based on the reinforcement, if its in the right places the leather will not be stretched and should last a very very long time. Quote
Members dirk87 Posted February 12 Author Members Report Posted February 12 (edited) 3D printed templates i’m using. Most of them are not really necessary but its part of the fun for me. i glue my straps complete in 30mm width, then cutout the buckle pin notch on the short strap, then line up and cutout the outer profile 1. 115mm strap cutting outer leather and reinforcement 2. 115mm strap cutting lining and inner layer 3. 115mm strap template 4. Different length gauge for glueing/lining up liner to the folded edge. 5. Gauge to mark fold and skive line at 5/10/20mm 6. 75mm strap template 7. template for glue liner at the fixed keeper side 8. 75mm strap cutting liner 9. 75mm strap cutting inner layer 10. 75mm strap cutting outer layer and reinforcement Glueing jig for outer/inner layer Curved jig to glue liner Edited February 12 by dirk87 Quote
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