Members AlanLessing Posted February 26 Members Report Posted February 26 Hello! Ive recently gotten into sewing and id like to take a deep dive into leather working. Now to be more specific on what im looking for; I primairly wish to work with leather suitable for clothes such as jackets and shirts and maybe even shoes. Now i do see the need for a sewing machine and id like one that meets the need for leather. I have found what appears to be a Singer 211u166 however i cant seem to find that model anywhere online. Now my search hasnt concluded and if any of you know some sources for budget sewing machines in the west coast please let me know! But i'd also like some clairification in regards to the needs for a machine. As ive skimmed some forums in regards to machines ive found talking about the need for different outlets and such for more industrial machines? How to slow down the machine if its too fast, and maybe some small issues in regards to some machines. Now i do wonder if i should snatch up that Singer 211u166 immidiately, or are there better options out there for what im looking for? Quote
AlZilla Posted February 26 Report Posted February 26 (edited) Go to the stickies for this subforum and read The Type of Machine You Need To Sew Leather. After that you'll have a much better idea what you should be looking for. I'll add that shoes are a whole different animal to most leather working. Oh, and in addition to your primary anticipated use, consider your heaviest anticipated use. A garment machine, for instance, probably isn't going to be any use for a knife sheath. EDIT: actually, here's a thread asking about that very machine. Might be worth reaching out to that member for their experience. Edited February 26 by AlZilla Quote
kgg Posted February 26 Report Posted February 26 9 hours ago, AlanLessing said: I primairly wish to work with leather suitable for clothes such as jackets and shirts and maybe even shoes. Keep in mind that NO one machine will do everything that is why some of us have more then one or six machines. You need to figure out: i) your max budget dollars ii) what is the thickest thread you want to sew with, V69 (domestic), V92, V138, V207, V277, V346, V415? iii) what is the thickest you want to sew including the seams? iv) what are the articles you are planning on making the most? v) You need to read this article to help figure what would work for what you want to sew. kgg Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted February 26 Moderator Report Posted February 26 @AlanLessing, Since you are just coming out or a hand sewing environment into a sewing machine environment, you need to assess how each item you assemble would be sewn on a machine. Obviously, flat seams and things that will be sewn while laying flat can be sewn on a flat bed machine, which is the most common. But, if the pieces become curved, or have shapes on the bottom on one or two sides, a flat bed won't do. Those may require either a cylinder arm or a post bed machine. In order to give you any accurate advice, we'd need to see the items you want to sew. Since you mentioned wanting to make shoes, you're already into the realm of needing two or three different machines at a minimum. I have a friend who delved into bespoke shoe making. He bought an old Singer 107 zig-zag machine to start. Then, he added a flat bed walking foot machine with reverse. Next, he discovered he needed a post bed machine, then a cylinder arm. He acquired a sole stitcher along the way. I thought he was done until he called and asked me to help find a suitable side-seam stitcher! Crime-n-Ebblies! When does it stop! If it turns out that you're going to need multiple types of machines, forget your imaginary budget! Poof, it's gone! Be prepared to spend lots of bucks. Even if you find every machine used and in good condition, it will end up costing several thousand dollars. Ask me how I know. Quote
Members AlanLessing Posted February 27 Author Members Report Posted February 27 On 2/26/2025 at 8:08 AM, kgg said: Keep in mind that NO one machine will do everything that is why some of us have more then one or six machines. You need to figure out: i) your max budget dollars ii) what is the thickest thread you want to sew with, V69 (domestic), V92, V138, V207, V277, V346, V415? iii) what is the thickest you want to sew including the seams? iv) what are the articles you are planning on making the most? v) You need to read this article to help figure what would work for what you want to sew. kgg I. max budget dollars i would say around 500 II. here i dont know much about thread thickness and im sorry i can answer this. III. Same issue here im not entirely sure IV. If i were to become expirenced and comfortable id probably focus on jackets and shirts. V. And thank you for guiding me to this article as well Quote
Members AlanLessing Posted February 27 Author Members Report Posted February 27 On 2/26/2025 at 8:25 AM, Wizcrafts said: @AlanLessing, Since you are just coming out or a hand sewing environment into a sewing machine environment, you need to assess how each item you assemble would be sewn on a machine. Obviously, flat seams and things that will be sewn while laying flat can be sewn on a flat bed machine, which is the most common. But, if the pieces become curved, or have shapes on the bottom on one or two sides, a flat bed won't do. Those may require either a cylinder arm or a post bed machine. In order to give you any accurate advice, we'd need to see the items you want to sew. Since you mentioned wanting to make shoes, you're already into the realm of needing two or three different machines at a minimum. I have a friend who delved into bespoke shoe making. He bought an old Singer 107 zig-zag machine to start. Then, he added a flat bed walking foot machine with reverse. Next, he discovered he needed a post bed machine, then a cylinder arm. He acquired a sole stitcher along the way. I thought he was done until he called and asked me to help find a suitable side-seam stitcher! Crime-n-Ebblies! When does it stop! If it turns out that you're going to need multiple types of machines, forget your imaginary budget! Poof, it's gone! Be prepared to spend lots of bucks. Even if you find every machine used and in good condition, it will end up costing several thousand dollars. Ask me how I know. If shoes are an entirely different animal that'd probably be wayyyyy down the path of my journey here. However to give you a list of items i wish to make would be primairly clothes such as jackets and shirts. For a reference of thickness id say that of suede. I appreciate your advice and if you feel as if there is anything more i should know please do tell! Quote
AlZilla Posted February 28 Report Posted February 28 7 hours ago, AlanLessing said: If shoes are an entirely different animal that'd probably be wayyyyy down the path of my journey here. However to give you a list of items i wish to make would be primairly clothes such as jackets and shirts. For a reference of thickness id say that of suede. I appreciate your advice and if you feel as if there is anything more i should know please do tell! Based on that, one very common machine to study up on would be a Consew 206RB5. There are tons of other machines in that range that are almost the exact same. Singer 111W, for example, to name just 1. Most will sew up to v138 thread, some 207. With some luck, you could score a used machine in the $500 range. New, you'd be about 3+ times that. Plenty, plenty of other types and styles of machine would fit your stated need. This is just a suggested starting point to maybe focus your search. Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted February 28 Moderator Report Posted February 28 16 hours ago, AlanLessing said: i wish to make would be primairly clothes such as jackets and shirts. For a reference of thickness id say that of suede. You'll want a compound (triple) feed walking foot machine for multi-layer garment or chap leather jobs. If the shirts are also made of leather or suede, the same machine can be used. However, if the shirts are made of cloth, and it is anything lighter than heavy denim, a walking foot machine may eat the fabric! For these projects, a bottom feed machine is better. There are plenty of those out there. Every alterations shop has tailoring machines that are bottom feeders with a flat presser foot. I have a bottom feeder at home. It's a Singer 31-15 that was made in the early 20th Century and still runs just fine. My Dad had one for his entire professional life as a tailor. He bought his new in 1920 and retired in 1975 or 76. These machines have interchangeable feed dogs and throat plates. Some feeders are for fine work, like dress shirts, and others are more aggressive for heavier materials, like coats. The 31-15 machines are able to sew chaps and even shoe and boot uppers if you use a roller foot. There is another type of walking foot machine that just has top and bottom feed. It is commonly used to sew vinyl, canvas and webbing. There are teeth on the presser foot that claw the work on top in sync with the feed dog on the bottom. The needle only moves up and down in dual feed machines. While they are great for use on materials that don't hold tooth marks, they shouldn't be used to sew veg-tan leather. Ask me how I know. Quote
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