First nice headstall

[JDFred]

When I first started leatherwork I made a couple headstall that were less than great.  I needed a new one for a new horse I got, so I decided to try again. I used 8-9 oz for the outside and lined it with 2-3 oz.  It’s hand sewn with Maine thread and I used a 3/4” cart dome buckle.  Then gave it a good coat of neatsfoot oil. Let me know what you think and what I can do better on the next one. Thank you for any input.

[Mulesaw]

Looks really good.

The sewing looks very consistent, and also the buckle fits very nicely in regards to colour, size and shape. 
Admittedly I have zero experience with western type headstalls, so there might be a reason, but considering your quality of hand sewing, I think you should have stitched the buckle in place instead of using that type of rivets (can't remember their English name). 

Brgds Jonas

[TomE]

That's a handsome piece of work! Nice design and execution.  I second Jonas' suggestion of sewing the buckle instead of using rivets that can pull out.  Another idea would be to dye the edges a darker brown and burnish them smooth.  Look forward to seeing more of your work.

[JDFred]

4 hours ago, Mulesaw said:

Looks really good.

The sewing looks very consistent, and also the buckle fits very nicely in regards to colour, size and shape. 
Admittedly I have zero experience with western type headstalls, so there might be a reason, but considering your quality of hand sewing, I think you should have stitched the buckle in place instead of using that type of rivets (can't remember their English name). 

Brgds Jonas

Thank you.  I recently found some Nigel Armitage videos that really helped me with my stitching.  You’re right about sewing in the buckle.  It is the one regret I have about the project.  They are called tube rivets, they are not as strong as rivet and burrs. It was the only colored rivet I had to match the buckle.  As to my reason for using them instead of sewing I don’t know.  Probably it is how I’ve done it before and I see a lot of headstall made this way, admittedly the were more production type headstall.  Also I’ve never sewn in a buckle so I’m not really sure how to do it.  I use stitching chisels rather than an awl so not sure how to get all my holes to line up.  I’m sure I can figure it out I just need to sit down and try.  Thank you again for the guidance.

[JDFred]

15 minutes ago, TomE said:

That's a handsome piece of work! Nice design and execution.  I second Jonas' suggestion of sewing the buckle instead of using rivets that can pull out.  Another idea would be to dye the edges a darker brown and burnish them smooth.  Look forward to seeing more of your work.

Thank you. I agree with you and Jonas about the buckle I’ll have to try that the next time.  Do you have any good tips on edge dying as I always make a mess of it and get it on the front a back of the project, so o try to stay away from it.  However you are right it would make it look a lot nicer.  As for my burnishing I use glycerin saddle soap and water.  I’ve been thinking of trying Tokenol or similar product, would that be a good direction to go?  Thank you again.

[TomE]

13 hours ago, JDFred said:

Thank you. I agree with you and Jonas about the buckle I’ll have to try that the next time.  Do you have any good tips on edge dying as I always make a mess of it and get it on the front a back of the project, so o try to stay away from it.  However you are right it would make it look a lot nicer.  As for my burnishing I use glycerin saddle soap and water.  I’ve been thinking of trying Tokenol or similar product, would that be a good direction to go?  Thank you again.

My favorite dye applicator is a small block of needled felt held in a clothespin.  About 3/8" thick x 1-1/2" x 3/4".  I bought the felt from Beiler's Manufacturing for a repair job and found it holds a lot of dye without dripping.  Other applicators I have used are a block of Magic Eraser foam, and a regular wool dauber with the loose fibers removed by singeing in a flame.  When dyeing an edge I hold the strap vertically so any drips tend to run down the edge.  You might find it easier to dye the edge after an initial round of burnishing with saddle soap so that the applicator runs smoothly along the edge. 

I typically start with dyeing the edges, waiting a few minutes for the surface to dry then adding a bit of saddle soap and burnishing with canvas or a power burnisher.  If needed,  I'll do a bit of light sanding with 320 or 400 grit abrasive paper while the edge is still damp.  I finish with tokonole or Martin's Edge Solution.  Ron's Tools sells an edge rub solution that I have been meaning to try.

Edited 14 hours ago by TomE

[JDFred]

2 hours ago, TomE said:

My favorite dye applicator is a small block of needled felt held in a clothespin.  About 3/8" thick x 1-1/2" x 3/4".  I bought the felt from Beiler's Manufacturing for a repair job and found it holds a lot of dye without dripping.  Other applicators I have used are a block of Magic Eraser foam, and a regular wool dauber with the loose fibers removed by singeing in a flame.  When dyeing an edge I hold the strap vertically so any drips tend to run down the edge.  You might find it easier to dye the edge after an initial round of burnishing with saddle soap so that the applicator runs smoothly along the edge. 

I typically start with dyeing the edges, waiting a few minutes for the surface to dry then adding a bit of saddle soap and burnishing with canvas or a power burnisher.  If needed,  I'll do a bit of light sanding with 320 or 400 grit abrasive paper while the edge is still damp.  I finish with tokonole or Martin's Edge Solution.  Ron's Tools sells an edge rub solution that I have been meaning to try.

Thanks for the tips.  I like the felt idea I think I’ve got some pieces from a saddle pad where I cut a wither relief out that might work.  Maybe I’ll take the plunge and get some tokonole next time I’m in town.