making belts- need tips

[pete]

It's been a billion years since I made belts. A friend wants a tooled 1 3/8" belt with a trophy buckle, no tip and no keeper (no taper) but doesn't want it so long that the tip hangs or looks bad.

He is 39" from the bend to the most used hole. How long should I make the standing part?

thanks

pete

[Blake]

Hi Pete

For trophy buckles I have always used 7 1/2" from the most used hole which is usually the center hole with 3/4" spacing.

This works well as it allows the front loop on the jeans to be the keeper and the excess is minimal so you get no flop or twist. It also leaves just enough to add a tip if he desires at a later date.

Blake

[bruce johnson]

Pete,

From the measurement you have, you will need to know two more measurements. You will need the length from the hook on the buckle to the heel. This may be up to 4" on a monster trophy buckle with a standard hook, or only 1-1/2 or 2" on a "reverse hook" buckle. This plus the 39" you already have should give you the measured waist size. Then you will need to add the amount he wants the tip of the belt to extend past the fold (overlap).

I make most of my belts to the measured waist size and then add the overlap they want. A shorter overlap may be 2", I like 3-1/2" personally. I then punch the holes if they bring me the buckle, or send it unpunched for them to punch to fit. Most of my customers have or have access to a leather punch. When I was wholesaling belts I never punched them, the sellers punched them to fit the buckle. This allowed them to custom fit for the guy who wanted 2" overlap, or the kid who liked 6" with the strap of appropriate length.

If they are prepunched and the buyer likes a shorter overlap and has a short buckle, then they have 4 holes past the buckle tip. Looks like they have progressivley gained weight and are in the last hole. Kind of a vanity thing, but many folks don't like to appear that way.

Bruce Johnson

[pete]

thanks Blake. I really appreciate it.

ps. about 2" for the fold and snaps/chicago screws?

pete

[Blake]

Hi Bruce

I like your method, It is certainly safer and more accurate. I may never pre punch another belt again.

Blake

[Blake]

thanks Blake. I really appreciate it.

ps. about 2" for the fold and snaps/chicago screws?

pete

CORRECT.

Blake