removing Leather Sheen

[Steel Dragon]

I have a couple of items that have two light coatings of Fiebings spray on Leather Sheen. I'm trying to remove it enough for a coat of dye to penetrate. So far I've tried nail polish remover and alcohol with no luck. I was wondering if there is anything else that I should try, or if I should just keep going with either of the two I have already tried.

Thanks,

Alex

[Art]

Hi Alex,

Here you might have to go the deglazer route, ethyl acetate and a little acetone. Weaver sells it and Tandy handles Fiebing's, get it locally as there is a Hazmat upcharge for shipping it.

Art

I have a couple of items that have two light coatings of Fiebings spray on Leather Sheen. I'm trying to remove it enough for a coat of dye to penetrate. So far I've tried nail polish remover and alcohol with no luck. I was wondering if there is anything else that I should try, or if I should just keep going with either of the two I have already tried.

Thanks,

Alex

[The Major]

I have a couple of items that have two light coatings of Fiebings spray on Leather Sheen. I'm trying to remove it enough for a coat of dye to penetrate. So far I've tried nail polish remover and alcohol with no luck. I was wondering if there is anything else that I should try, or if I should just keep going with either of the two I have already tried.

Thanks,

Alex

When I have had to strip Saddle Lac, I have used deglazer to break the finish, then xylene to do the final stripping. The only thing is it kills the oils in the leather, so just try not to flex the piece before you re-oil it.

[Steel Dragon]

Well I used that Fiebings Deglazer #12. Used it VERY light each time. It broke down the Leather Sheen. At least enough for me to apply some oil and then some Fiebings oil based dye. The dye seems to have taken really well and the leather seems just as flexible as before.

Thanks.

[Steel Dragon]

Hi,

Thought I should add this...

I emailed Fiebings yesterday afternoon. Turns out I did the right thing. The Deglazer was what they recommended.

I also have to mention that I was wearing those blue nitrile gloves and by the end of the first set of arm bands my finger tips started to get a tingling / burning kind of feeling (which stopped after removing the gloves). A few hours later after scrubbing my hands and seeing how the first set went I tried the 2nd set. Fresh gloves on and went to work. Same thing happened to my finger tips by the end of stripping the Leather Sheen. So really heavy gloves might be something to take into consideration. These were the single layer nitrile gloves which worked fine in the past for gasoline and paint thinner.

[Art]

Hi Alex,

Ethyl Acetate is the solvent used in deglazer among others. The normalized breakthrough time (NBT) for nitrile (exam type gloves, 4mil) is one minute. Also nitrile which is a cyano group product can break down to a cyanide ion so this could have been the tingling. For longer contact butyl rubber gloves would be the best bet (still a short time period

As always you have to do your homework here as it's your body at risk.

Art

Hi,

Thought I should add this...

I emailed Fiebings yesterday afternoon. Turns out I did the right thing. The Deglazer was what they recommended.

I also have to mention that I was wearing those blue nitrile gloves and by the end of the first set of arm bands my finger tips started to get a tingling / burning kind of feeling (which stopped after removing the gloves). A few hours later after scrubbing my hands and seeing how the first set went I tried the 2nd set. Fresh gloves on and went to work. Same thing happened to my finger tips by the end of stripping the Leather Sheen. So really heavy gloves might be something to take into consideration. These were the single layer nitrile gloves which worked fine in the past for gasoline and paint thinner.