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  • Contributing Member
Posted

How to get this stitch length mechanism freed up?

In this first photo of the main shaft, we have the timing cog on the right, the feed shaft cap in the middle, and the stitch length mechanism on the left. The large hole in the middle of the stitch length mechanism is for a set screw which I have removed. The smaller hole (upper right) of the stitch length mechanism is where I have removed the lock screw. so that the adjustment can actually be made.

feed-eccentric-1.JPG

Then I rotate the handwheel some, and now we see a different set screw (lower left, already loosened) and the big adjustment screw next to it.

feed-eccentric-2.JPG

The adjustment screw can move about 200 degrees from left to right before it binds. I've soaked the adjustment screw and the hole where the lock screw goes with marvel mystery oil, and even squirted some between the adjustment mechanism and the feed shaft cap. I've tapped on the adjustment screw with a hammer (using a metal screwdriver as a go-between). I've tapped the feed shaft with a hammer. Still nothing budging.

Is there anything else I should try (or shouldn't try) to get this to move?

 

singer-harness-2.jpg

friquant. Like a frequent, piquant flyer.

Check out my blog: Choosing a Motor for your Industrial Sewing Machine

  • Contributing Member
Posted

Here is the relevant section of the manual.

I assume that turning the adjustment screw clockwise is meant to bring the ex-center closer to the center of the shaft.


20250817_19h09m26s_grim.png

friquant. Like a frequent, piquant flyer.

Check out my blog: Choosing a Motor for your Industrial Sewing Machine

Posted

There's 2 ways to fix it,replace it OR try sewing & using it w/o locking it up should make the part rock in the grooves to get it to free up,you need to tighten the smaller screw since that is what connects the stitch cam to the shaft.

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

toledo-banner-2.jpg

Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, friquant said:

Here is the relevant section of the manual.

I would get a wire brush and scrap all round the unit particularly around the feed eccentric seam and then add a few drops of good old fashion diesel around the feed eccentric seam. Wait about 24 hours to let it soak in, a few light tabs with a hammer and without any needle or bobbin run it at different speeds for a few minutes. If it hasn't freed up start over with a few more drops of diesel. Once freed oil the heck out of it with some synthetic transmission oil.

If you can't get it freed like @CowboyBob has suggest replace the unit. 

kgg

Edited by kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

  • Contributing Member
Posted
3 hours ago, CowboyBob said:

try sewing & using it w/o locking it up should make the part rock in the grooves to get it to free up

That sounds good! I'll do that as soon as I get the set screws sorted...both set screws (both the one that goes in the main-shaft-groove and the one that does not) have one ear broken off. Planning to cut a groove in the top of each set screws to make them serviceable again and put them back in for now.

3 hours ago, kgg said:

add a few drops of good old fashion diesel around the feed eccentric seam. Wait about 24 hours to let it soak in, a few light tabs with a hammer and without any needle or bobbin run it at different speeds for a few minutes.

Tempting...we just got the machine back to smelling good again after its initial bath in P'Blaster. 👃 I guess we could relegate it to the porch for a few days..

 

friquant. Like a frequent, piquant flyer.

Check out my blog: Choosing a Motor for your Industrial Sewing Machine

Posted

@friquant  The new stitch length cam I have in stock uses allen screws to the shaft.the others are still slotted.

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

toledo-banner-2.jpg

Posted
3 hours ago, friquant said:

we just got the machine back to smelling good again after its initial bath in P'Blaster.

I have had great success with diesel and so so with penetrating oils. Once you give it a go with synthetic transmission oil the smell usually is gone. Another suggestion is to use heat like from a heat gun or propane touch and when it is hot hit it with oil for a fast cool down. That may free it.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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