Replacing girth please don't

[TomE]

18 hours ago, jcuk said:

Funny enough I had to replace some dressage billets last week the previous person who had done the, who I don't  know not only machine stitched them way more than needed (not back stitched them) which led me to believe they were not sure of they were doing but also used a rivet too through the saddle webbing, never seen this before so before I started the repair I checked with the local tack shop who gave me the saddle  if the owner wanted the rivets replaced too which they did, the webbing was still safe to use but I wanted a email saying the owner had said yes to the stitching and rivets before I started the repair.

I recently encountered double cap rivets on the webs of a 25+ year old dressage saddle that was stamped Continental Walsall England. My online search didn't turn up anything specific about a maker.  The client was the original owner of the saddle and I believe these were the original billets.  The billets were machine sewn and I suggested that the rivets weren't necessary with hand sewn billets.  She wanted the rivets.  I guess they look strong.  I used #9 copper rivets.

[jcuk]

26 minutes ago, TomE said:

I recently encountered double cap rivets on the webs of a 25+ year old dressage saddle that was stamped Continental Walsall England. My online search didn't turn up anything specific about a maker.  The client was the original owner of the saddle and I believe these were the original billets.  The billets were machine sewn and I suggested that the rivets weren't necessary with hand sewn billets.  She wanted the rivets.  I guess they look strong.  I used #9 copper rivets.

Glad someone else has seen it too, I was going to replace the rivets with copper rivets but thought no they are a pain in the rear end to remove maybe damaging the saddle webbing in doing so making it a much bigger repair. So I decided to  use a method that I had learned from repairing some race exercise reins for a American trainer who was training in the Middle East when I was there, the bit end was attached with Chicago screws, must add also the reins were double thickness lined with a strong metal insert bent around to make the bend. That's what I used for the billet with a good thread locker knowing the restitch was enough to of a repair in its self. Also forgot to mention who ever had replaced them previous billets before had stitched across the billet as well, that is a big no no. On the saddle you repaired I would think in a saddle of 25 years plus would have had the girths billets replaced a few times over the years before, but you never know sometimes. Just don't like the thought of a bigger hole in the saddle webbing that is needed that's why I checked before that the webbing was still okay and ran it by the tack shop owner who then contacted the owner of the saddle that they wanted stitching and rivets which they did also showed them where it had failed where previous repair had been stitched across the billet, yes that is where it had failed.

Hope this helps

JCUK

[TomE]

The Chicago screws are a good idea - for the next one.  This older client's saddle was in good shape, and I am guessing that she had taken a break from riding and was returning to it.  

[Mulesaw]

22 hours ago, jcuk said:

I meant to ask a the time of the previous thread concerning sliding reins by that do you mean draw reins.

Yes, I just googled it, and draw reins are what I am talking about. I just gambled with a direct translation from Danish :-) Here they are called: glidetøjler. glide = slip or slide, tøjler = reins.

Brgds Jonas

[jcuk]

8 minutes ago, Mulesaw said:

Yes, I just googled it, and draw reins are what I am talking about. I just gambled with a direct translation from Danish 🙂 Here they are called: glidetøjler. glide = slip or slide, tøjler = reins.

Brgds Jonas

Thought so, I have seen them made full leather backs in one piece also from two pieces spliced together just make the join is not in the part that will be sliding through the bit ring as is will wear on the stitching. Also seen them made with webbing and leather. The ones I do not like are the ones made from Biothane because they become very tatty very quickly with wear and the other thing with certain pieces of tack made from Biothane if the gets loose the reins can some times can get wrapped around the horses legs resulting with a badly injured horse at times as the Biothane will not break first the horse will, that's why I like leather for tack over anything else, having said that Biothane can be useful for areas of safety in tack.

Once it was held up as a cheap alternative to leather tack but I have noticed how the prices have crept up and are a par price wise to leather tack and for certain pieces of tack or in some cases more expensive, how did that happen especially as with all plastic it will not break down once thrown away  like leather tack stitched with linen thread.Sorry not wishing to sound like some hippie eco warrior or something, good leather tack looked after well will last a very long time I have seen this, Biothane will crack and look very untidy eventually and then just gets thrown in the bin not worth repairing.

Regards

JCUK