NFO and topcoats

[ThisIsMyFirstRodeo]

Hey all,

Has anyone experienced any issues with NFO and topcoats, whether NFO is applied before or after?

Products used: Tandy’s econo veg tan shoulder, dyed with EcoFlo deep violet leather dye, Dr. Jackson’s pure NFO, EcoFlo super sheen)

Backstory:
After becoming accustomed to the juicy vibrancy of Angelus’s purple leather dye, I’m unimpressed with the EcoFlo, in depth of color as well as polished sheen (I did 3 coats total). Finally got my hands on some NFO (oil not compound), and figured I’d give it a try to see if it helped either color or sheen. 
Then it caught water spray while I was working another piece, and bled onto my hands and the paper towel I was using to dry it. And remembered that it’s water-based and I hadn’t sealed it yet so I grabbed the super sheen. No matter how many coats ive tried, it simply runs off.
Deciding that the issue might be the NFO, I used some saddle soap to try to remove it, let it sit a couple minutes, and rinsed off before trying again. Super sheen still just rolled off.
And that brings us up to now.

I really don’t want to deal with unhappy wife or customers dealing with stained skin and clothes, so I’m looking for a solution. Thoughts? 
 

TIA,

AZR

[kgg]

1 hour ago, ThisIsMyFirstRodeo said:

Tandy’s econo veg tan shoulder, dyed with EcoFlo deep violet leather dye, Dr. Jackson’s pure NFO, EcoFlo super sheen

 

1 hour ago, ThisIsMyFirstRodeo said:

I really don’t want to deal with unhappy wife or customers dealing with stained skin and clothes, so I’m looking for a solution. Thoughts? 

I have used Angelus dye and it is an excellent product just to expensive to use on a regular basis. I mostly use Fiebing's dye with good results. The econo leathers I think tend to be a bit drier then the more expensive ones. 

I also don't use NFO oil for many reasons and prefer JoJoba oil as it is the closest you can get to sperm whale oil. I oil first before applying any dye and let sit for 24 hours to soak in and spread out opening the fibres of the leather. 

This link to a topic maybe of some help or give you some ideas on your dying process.

kgg

[ThisIsMyFirstRodeo]

3 hours ago, kgg said:

 

I have used Angelus dye and it is an excellent product just to expensive to use on a regular basis. I mostly use Fiebing's dye with good results. The econo leathers I think tend to be a bit drier then the more expensive ones. 

I also don't use NFO oil for many reasons and prefer JoJoba oil as it is the closest you can get to sperm whale oil. I oil first before applying any dye and let sit for 24 hours to soak in and spread out opening the fibres of the leather. 

This link to a topic maybe of some help or give you some ideas on your dying process.

kgg

Thank you. Fiebings is definitely my go-to as well. And the Angelus is awesome, but it also feels like busting out the Pappy Van Winkle 9yr on a weeknight to me, if you know what I mean. I’ll give your method a try and see how it works for me. 
 

— AZR

[kgg]

37 minutes ago, ThisIsMyFirstRodeo said:

I’ll give your method a try and see how it works for me. 

Hope it helps and I would be interested in knowing how it works out.

kgg 

[Dwight]

I've been messing with leather for 25+ years so far . . . NEVER have had any thing I made give me problems with Resolene . . . it goes on . . . stays on . . . and works.

I was really . . . REALLY . . . mad at a belt I made one time using USMC black . . . I think I could have wire brushed that thing and black would still have rubbed off.

Grabbed the Resolene . . . 2 light coats . . . END of problem.

Try it . . . you have nothing to lose at this point . . . if you've never used it . . . make sure to dilute it . . . 50 / 50 Resolene and tap water. 

Stir well and put on with a bristle paint brush (I use the little cheap 1 inch wide throw away ones . . . rinse the resolene out of it . . . use it for months) . . .

You kind of slop it on to start with . . . then give it the up/down . . . left / right . . . right angle . . . left angle . . . put enough on that serious brushing will cause a bit of foam to come up  . . . then brush it until all the bubbles are busted . . . that is one coat. 

Give it 20 minutes to rest and add a second coat . . . and you should be fixed all and good.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited October 6 by Dwight

[ThisIsMyFirstRodeo]

1 hour ago, Dwight said:

I've been messing with leather for 25+ years so far . . . NEVER have had any thing I made give me problems with Resolene . . . it goes on . . . stays on . . . and works.

I was really . . . REALLY . . . mad at a belt I made one time using USMC black . . . I think I could have wire brushed that thing and black would still have rubbed off.

Grabbed the Resolene . . . 2 light coats . . . END of problem.

Try it . . . you have nothing to lose at this point . . . if you've never used it . . . make sure to dilute it . . . 50 / 50 Resolene and tap water. 

Stir well and put on with a bristle paint brush (I use the little cheap 1 inch wide throw away ones . . . rinse the resolene out of it . . . use it for months) . . .

You kind of slop it on to start with . . . then give it the up/down . . . left / right . . . right angle . . . left angle . . . put enough on that serious brushing will cause a bit of foam to come up  . . . then brush it until all the bubbles are busted . . . that is one coat. 

Give it 20 minutes to rest and add a second coat . . . and you should be fixed all and good.

May God bless,

Dwight

I should pick some Resolene up on my next Tandy run. I actually just made a bag using USMC black for the straps and billets, but I gave them a healthy coat of ProResist. Hopefully it’ll do the trick…

— AZR

[wizard of tragacanth]

Use Tandy Pro Dye, there is virtually no rub-off. USMC Black... nightmare... but it is black. The Pro Black has a bluish, purplish sheen at certain angles, or so I have found. I still use it though.

[ThisIsMyFirstRodeo]

13 hours ago, wizard of tragacanth said:

Use Tandy Pro Dye, there is virtually no rub-off. USMC Black... nightmare... but it is black. The Pro Black has a bluish, purplish sheen at certain angles, or so I have found. I still use it though.

I’m assuming that you’re also familiar with the Fiebings Pro black. What’s your preference?

AZR

[ThisIsMyFirstRodeo]

For those curious, the Pro Resist seems to have sealed. 
 

KGG — I oiled a piece last night. This morning, the color of the leather is just slightly little darker, but even across the piece. Seems to be a perfect blank canvas. Usually I tool before I dye, but today I plan to dye and tool tomorrow, along with a piece I didn’t oil, and we’ll see how much dye bleeds as I case it…

AZR

Edited October 7 by ThisIsMyFirstRodeo
Extra detail

[wizard of tragacanth]

On 10/7/2025 at 8:00 AM, ThisIsMyFirstRodeo said:

I’m assuming that you’re also familiar with the Fiebings Pro black. What’s your preference?

AZR

Sorry about the confusion. I am getting rather feeble minded, lately.

Yes, Fiebings Pro Black is what I meant. I wouldn't use anything else. 

Nick