Singer 18-2 Problem with part 3037

[friquant]

How about diesel or other penetrating oil on the stud?

How about tapping the tip of the stud with a long steel rod and a light hammer?

[AlZilla]

1 hour ago, Ghoust6 said:

. I was looking for a hidden super small bolt in the fork holding it so tightly. As I said I was trying everything and no luck. If someone ever

Yeah, this is the challenge. That 18-2 isn't one of the common machines that everyone's seen a hundred times. 

I'm hoping someone will check in who's done that job.  Maybe @Wizcrafts knows something?

[friquant]

The parts list for my Singer 31-15 shows more of these parts together as a group, which might be useful.

Have you tried removing the stitch length adjustment screw (818D in this screenshot) ? With that removed maybe the whole cluster will slide out toward the camera..

[friquant]

Here's a video where someone removes that fork from a Singer 31k15:

 

[Constabulary]

I think the fork is attached to part no 3033 (feed fork connection link) from the rear with a screw (the one which thread you see on your last picture) and the part 3033 is attached to the 6459 (feed regulator = Stitch length adjuster) and to the machine body with a screw and I think this is screw the read arrow is pointing to (see picture below). So I think you have to remove this screw first. The rest is trial and error. I recall it was similar on my Singer 45D91 back then.

Look at these parts from the rear side, you should see the parts through the hole. Move the stitch length lever up and down and I think you will notice what I have described.

EDIT:
I just noticed the video - it shows what I mean.

 

Edited December 12 by Constabulary

[Ghoust6]

Constabulary the screw you are pointing is 375 i think and its locked by 1518 nut so Im unable to unscrew it. First I would have to unscre the nut but there is no way i can reach it. I think that lowering the fork or position it in a place so i can unscrew 58 screw will do the trick. Bonus for everyone mix of strong alcohol 45% + naphtha 45% + sewing oil 10% will do magic with old rusty screws. I think the only stronger  thing than that is hot naphtha. Also that mixture won't destroy shelac or paint. Ofcourse it's just for losen everything and after that you must use sewing oil only. Friquant thank you so much I think you might just solve the problem but when I try I will say. 

[Ghoust6]

Problem solved friquant is right. Thank you all!!

[rmdorman]

Hah did you send this to Florida? I just received a 18U222 from Poland and think this machine or its cousin might be mine now  

Is a neat old machine. I have seen several Japanese bespoke shoemakers prefer them as they allow you to sew right along a top edge with the work supported, and I figured I would see if I could put this one back into service for the same

I was going to ask if anyone knew if parts from the more common right-hand cylinder arm light leather machines like class 17 might be interchangeable eg needle plate, accessory work table. ISMACS suggests they are mirror copies. 

[friquant]

9 hours ago, rmdorman said:

I was going to ask if anyone knew if parts from the more common right-hand cylinder arm light leather machines like class 17 might be interchangeable eg needle plate, accessory work table. ISMACS suggests they are mirror copies. 

You'll have better luck if you start a new topic 😉