What sewing machine should I purchase?

[J Kellar]

I have a few questions regarding machines. I mostly sew wallets, belts, and knife cases, but I would also like to do bags at some point. As far as belts and sheaths go, I use Hermann Oak Saddle Skirting Leather.

Should I use 207 or 277 size thread, or both?

Is the Cowboy 797 from Tandy powerful enough to sew through 2 layers of 10-11 oz Hermann Oak without pre-punching the holes?

If not, what machine should I look for? I've looked at the CB3200 and the Cobra Classes 3 and 4 sewing machines, but those are a tad out of my budget for now.

[AlZilla]

You'll get plenty of good feedback here. For the moment, let me direct you to an epic thread on this very subject that should get you started: 

 

 

[friquant]

On 12/8/2025 at 12:44 PM, J Kellar said:

I have a few questions regarding machines. I mostly sew wallets, belts, and knife cases, but I would also like to do bags at some point. 

What machine should I look for? I've looked at the CB3200 and the Cobra Classes 3 and 4 sewing machines, but those are a tad out of my budget for now.

What machines are you sewing with now?

What kind of triple feed machines come up often in your local marketplace ads?

 

[J Kellar]

Friquant, I'm not using any machines. I'm hand-sewing and frankly, I'm getting tired of it.

[kgg]

8 hours ago, J Kellar said:

I'm not using any machines. I'm hand-sewing and frankly, I'm getting tired of it.

An alternative to the class 441 machines like the machines you listed ( CB3200 and the Cobra Classes 3 and 4 ) would be the one armed bandits. Those that are currently available are the Tippmann Boss (~$1000), the Cowboy Outlaw (~$1500) and the Weaver Master Tool Cub (~$2150).  

kgg

[J Kellar]

4 minutes ago, kgg said:

An alternative to the class 441 machines like the machines you listed ( CB3200 and the Cobra Classes 3 and 4 ) would be the one armed bandits. Those that are currently available are the Tippmann Boss (~$1000), the Cowboy Outlaw (~$1500) and the Weaver Master Tool Cub (~$2150).  

kgg

Thanks, kgg. I’ve looked into all three, trying to find them used is a nightmare. 

[friquant]

You could ease into the machine sewing world with something cheaper and more common like the pfaff 545. That would at least get your wallet party going.

[Wizcrafts]

@J Kellar

There is another class of heavy duty sewing machine that can handle thick and dense leather, large thread and big needles. I refer to these machines as the 45 Class because they are based on the ancient Singer model 45. That machine was available with a fixed flat foot and with a flip up roller foot and had bottom feed only. I had one for a while when I first got into sewing heavy leather. It could handle #346 bonded thread with a #26 needle The maximum thickness was about 3/8 inch, although it could sew 7/16 in less dense leather. 

The modern equivalent would be the Cowboy CB2500, shown on this web page. You can read the full description there. It is a less expensive option if you don't expect to sew stacks of leather over 7/16 inch, or if tooth marks on the bottom and foot tracks on the top won't be a problem. Those marks can be pounded or rubbed out to a large extent.

The main difference between a 45 class and a 441 class machine is that the 441s have triple feed that can walk up and down different layers without difficulty. The flat or roller foot would need you to lift the foot with the foot or hand lifter to climb up onto new layers. It would certainly handle knife sheathes and pancake holsters that only have two pieces being sewn together.

Having had a Singer 45 and now having a Cowboy CB4500 gives me a good reference about the differences between these classes of machine. The only way I'd acquire another 45 machine was if I was going to be sewing tow straps or something else made of heavy webbing. 

You also asked about the best thread size for securing two layers of 10-11 ounce skirting. You'll definitely want to use #277 on the top and bottom. This calls for a #25 leather point needle and a lot of foot pressure.

[J Kellar]

12 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

@J Kellar

There is another class of heavy duty sewing machine that can handle thick and dense leather, large thread and big needles. I refer to these machines as the 45 Class because they are based on the ancient Singer model 45. That machine was available with a fixed flat foot and with a flip up roller foot and had bottom feed only. I had one for a while when I first got into sewing heavy leather. It could handle #346 bonded thread with a #26 needle The maximum thickness was about 3/8 inch, although it could sew 7/16 in less dense leather. 

The modern equivalent would be the Cowboy CB2500, shown on this web page. You can read the full description there. It is a less expensive option if you don't expect to sew stacks of leather over 7/16 inch, or if tooth marks on the bottom and foot tracks on the top won't be a problem. Those marks can be pounded or rubbed out to a large extent.

The main difference between a 45 class and a 441 class machine is that the 441s have triple feed that can walk up and down different layers without difficulty. The flat or roller foot would need you to lift the foot with the foot or hand lifter to climb up onto new layers. It would certainly handle knife sheathes and pancake holsters that only have two pieces being sewn together.

Having had a Singer 45 and now having a Cowboy CB4500 gives me a good reference about the differences between these classes of machine. The only way I'd acquire another 45 machine was if I was going to be sewing tow straps or something else made of heavy webbing. 

You also asked about the best thread size for securing two layers of 10-11 ounce skirting. You'll definitely want to use #277 on the top and bottom. This calls for a #25 leather point needle and a lot of foot pressure.

Thank you so much, Wiz! I was actually just looking at the CB2500 when I figured I'd check notifications. Some time in February I'll call Bob and ask if they have a used one in stock. I mostly make cowboy style wallets and knife cases, but I have a couple belts I'd like to sew a liner onto and I simply don't have the time to hand sew everything. 

[J Kellar]

13 hours ago, friquant said:

You could ease into the machine sewing world with something cheaper and more common like the pfaff 545. That would at least get your wallet party going.

I looked for one, I couldn't find one on eBay.