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Posted
6 hours ago, toxo said:

Seems like a foolproof way to do it.

Downside I think is getting the bobbin tension adjusted. The Juki style is where the bobbin is placed in the top half part of the bobbin assembly, threaded and tension adjusted while still in your hand and then dropped in place. Personally I like being able to adjust the bobbin tension this way as I can do a bobbin tension drop test. 

kgg 

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Posted
10 hours ago, kgg said:

Downside I think is getting the bobbin tension adjusted. The Juki style is where the bobbin is placed in the top half part of the bobbin assembly, threaded and tension adjusted while still in your hand and then dropped in place. Personally I like being able to adjust the bobbin tension this way as I can do a bobbin tension drop test. 

kgg 

I've read about this drop test but it never occurred to me that the bobbin must  be different to be able to do it. I always go with a try first. Because my hobby uses different types and thicknesses of leather I'll always test on a bit of scrap first to check tension and needle size. I'll always use the 45 degree slide test as a starting point for needle size and adjust if necessary.

Posted
13 hours ago, toxo said:

I've read about this drop test but it never occurred to me that the bobbin must  be different to be able to do it.

The bobbin is the same it's the bobbin case that is different. Here is a good video on doing a drop test on a flatbed machine. The same applies for a Juki compliant bobbin case on a cylinder arm.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted

I never did that drop test, the manuals show how to set the tension right. That works for decades, just follow it. But as always - many roads lead to Rome - or each to his  own. 😉

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Constabulary said:

I never did that drop test, the manuals show how to set the tension right.

Yes and No. The manuals do show how to wind a bobbin, load/unload a bobbin, what direction the bobbin should turn when the bobbin thread is pulled and what screw to adjust for increasing or decreasing the tension just not how not how to get the tension close to what is needed for a given thread size or what not to do when adjusting the tension screw.

Note:

1) Juki LS-1341 can have it's bobbin tension adjust while in your hand and not in the machine and you can do a drop test like a flatbed machine since it is a split case setup.

2) The manuals indicate the bobbin should turn clockwise NOT counter clockwise.

Here are three examples from the Juki manuals. Other Brand Name and Clone machines may differ. :

i) Juki LS-1341 (compound walking foot cylinder bed)--> threading a bobbin

ii) Juki LS-1341 (compound walking foot cylinder bed) --> adjusting bobbin tension

iii) Juki DNU-1541S (compound walking foot flatbed)--> threading a bobbin

iv) Juki DNU-1541S (compound walking foot flatbed) --> adjusting bobbin tension

v) Juki DU-1181N (walking foot flatbed) --> threading a bobbin

vi) Juki DU-1181N (walking foot flatbed) --> adjusting bobbin tension

 

 

kgg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

juki ls-1341.JPG

juki ls-1341 setting tension.JPG

Juki DNU-1541S setting tension.JPG

juki dnu-1541S.JPG

juki du-1181N setting tension.JPG

juki du-1181N.JPG

Edited by kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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