Neat Trick for Needle Sizing

[gtwister09]

When visiting a home sewing machine shop, I watched the following tip. I thought how clever it would be for people having issues with the wrong needle thread sizing. I know that many of us have charts but this is a quick and dirty method.

This lady carted in with a machine, a cigar box FULL of needles, about 10-12 spools of thread, some light fabric, some heavy denim and some suede (4-5 oz). Turned out that this machine was given to her by her Mom and that she had seen her sew all these materials on it with no issue. She was constantly breaking threads and thought that the machine was the issue so this guy had already cleaned, oiled and tuned it up for her. However she still had issues so he was going to help her set up needles and thread to match materials.

First thing they did was look at about 20 needles from the cigar box and throw some of them away due to burrs. He told her that she would have to go through the rest of the box but showed her how to do that.

Next they selected one of the threads for the leather and started to select a leather needle. He picked out a diamond shaped one and told her to cut 3 foot of thread. He then "tested" it and said that this one will create issues. He picked another one and said this combination of thread and needle will work. He did it for 3 other pieces of thread and finally came up with some combinations that would work. Then he tried it on her machine andn it worked perfectly with her sewing without any issues.

Correct Thread - Needle Sizing Tip

(1) Cut about 3 feet of thread that you are going to use

(2) Select the needle that you are going to use

(3) Thread the needle on one end and leave about 8 inches past the end of the needle (If the needle sticks at this point it is too small)

(4) Hold the needle in one hand (thumb and forefinger) and wrap the excess thread around the forefinger

(5) Take the opposite end of the thread in your other hand and drop it down so that it makes approximately a 45 degree angle

(6) Make sure that the thread is tight between your two hands

(7) Release the needle from your thumb and forefinger and watch the motion that occurs

If the needle sticks at the top, it is too small - try the next largest needle.

If the needle is jerky as it slides, it is too small - try the next largest needle.

If the needles slides rapidly, it is too large - try the next smallest needle

If the needle slides steadily & evenly, it is the correct size.

Here's a chart from Excel.

Regards,

Ben

[RawhideLeather]

Thanks for the tip. The information you give just before the chart looks correct but the chart is incorrect and should be deleted or corrected to avoid confusion.

[gtwister09]

Thanks for the proofing... I have sent off an updated snapshot so it should be updated. Thanks again

Regards,

Ben

[Johanna]

Pic fixed. Good info, Ben, thanks!

~J

[Davidstryingtosew]

I love the great info here.

Thanks Ben!!

David

[georgeandgracie]

Thanks! This is information I can really use.

[Bertil]

Thanks! It really works!

[barra]

i was taught this method by master motor trimmers and passed it on when I was teaching. Great quick reference.

[nascenta]

I'm a newbie and i think that this tip is going to save me lots of aggrevation. Thank you! 

[Massive]

It may work to tell you that a needle will work, but not that a needle won't work.  There are many needle thread combos that work, well actually that don't work, and the eye size is only one factor.  What I do is basically just follow the rules, and test combinations. 

In one of the type of sewing I do, outdoor gear, there are lot of people who want to get the strongest thread through the smallest hole.  Not a great approach, the needle bends, and the point strikes something and the process fouls up.  Any reason they had for doing it is no longer valid because the material is all snarled up.  This happens with leather also.  Either people want to run machines and therefore smaller needles than they should because it is all that they have.  or they want to minimize the size of holes in the work.  Just sticking to the normal set up is usually the best solution.

 

Jeans are an interesting example, size 16 needles and fat thread for top stitching, works great in denim.  But with leather the needle is the tool that applies tension, and there is often more than it can take required to close a seam.