Consew 205 rb-1 for garment making

[Hinch]

Hello and thanks for the add. I have the opportunity to purchase a Consew 205 rb-1 for $650. The machine appears in very good condition and the seller says he has installed a speed reducer. I'm primarily interested in making leather jackets with a couple layers of 3-4 oz chrome tanned at most. I understand the 205 is not a compound feed but is that really necessary for lighter weight projects? I would also like to use the machine for heavy denim projects, with 18-21 oz fabric. Is it worth picking up or should I hold out for a 206 or similar? Thanks for any input!

[nejcek74]

It's very much a question of garment construction. Jeans trousers and jackets can mean crossing flat felled seam with 16 layers of heavy denim. That's a lot. Classic approach was a chain stitch machine with a heavy puller. A triple feed machine works well, albeit a little bit slower. But people manage to do it also with old tailor's sewing machines, a hammer and careful construction, i.e. avoiding crossing flat felled seams.

My leather garments were always kind of basic so I had less problems with them than with denim trousers.

Edited 17 hours ago by nejcek74

[Hinch]

Yeah I've made a couple denim jackets with my singer 15-91 and while it did ok, it definitely didn't love some of the flat felled seams. And that was 14 oz denim. But like I said, my primary interest is leather jackets which to my understanding don't really utilize flat felled seams. If it couldn't handle the heavy denim I could live with that provided it was good with leather.

[Wizcrafts]

14 hours ago, Hinch said:

I understand the 205 is not a compound feed but is that really necessary for lighter weight projects? I would also like to use the machine for heavy denim projects, with 18-21 oz fabric. Is it worth picking up or should I hold out for a 206 or similar?

I'd hold out for a triple feed walking foot machine.

[AlZilla]

At $650 the 205 isn't some screaming bargain. Lay low, hold out for a 206 class machine. Have more than you need, rather than need more than you have.

[brongle]

17 hours ago, nejcek74 said:

It's very much a question of garment construction. Jeans trousers and jackets can mean crossing flat felled seam with 16 layers of heavy denim. That's a lot. Classic approach was a chain stitch machine with a heavy puller. A triple feed machine works well, albeit a little bit slower. But people manage to do it also with old tailor's sewing machines, a hammer and careful construction, i.e. avoiding crossing flat felled seams.

My leather garments were always kind of basic so I had less problems with them than with denim trousers.

I'm curious - what advantage does a chain stitch machine have there? I've noticed they're used a lot on denim but I've always wondered why. 

[nejcek74]

it's about speed and strength. Don't forget that jeans is the grandfather of apparel mass production. Chain stitched seams are stronger and I think also faster to make. And you don't need the bobbin.

[kgg]

11 minutes ago, nejcek74 said:

Chain stitched seams are stronger

Yes and No. Depends on what you need.

32 minutes ago, brongle said:

what advantage does a chain stitch machine have there?

Chain Stitch

i) more flexible which helps the seam from breaking under stress

ii) the seam will unravel if thread breaks from wear or being cut

 

Lockstitch

i) more secure as each stitch is locked into place

ii) you will not loss the seam if a section of the seam becomes damaged from wear or a cut

 

The chainstitch is more cost effective labour wish as there is no bobbin that has to be rewound. Once you got the spool hooked up that's it it until it runs out.

 

kgg