CFM chuck123wapati Posted 6 hours ago CFM Report Posted 6 hours ago On a previous thread, I was having trouble getting proper tension on my Boss, and after several yards of thread and several very good observations from the folks here, I concluded that the thread was the problem, so I ordered some from Springfield leather. Turns out it was. I put it on and after setting the tension its runs perfectly. So I thought I would add this thread, haha, because I see a lot of machine problems and solutions, but not many folks question the thread quality. I took a couple of photos to show the problem I encountered. 1. The thread was wound so tightly on the spool that at every crossing, the thread was flattened. 2. The thread was also spun very tightly and was very slick; the second capstan-type tension thing couldn't work correctly. This would cause me to have to overtighten the first tension knob, causing the thread to twist and eventually kick out of the tension discs altogether. My only half a**ed solution was to put a double wrap on the capstan tension thing. Then I could loosen the first knob and get a decent amount of work before the thread popped out of the first discs. My only gripe about the Springfield thread is it's not brown. The sticker says brown my eyes, and the camera says grey. You be the judge. The brown thread is the Mandala, and the grey thread is the Springfield thread. Great thread, but at what point does someone looking at a case of grey thread with stickers saying it's brown question it? I purchased the problem thread from Amazon, its brand name is Mandala Crafts. I wouldn't recommend it. Quote Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms. “I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!
Members TonyV Posted 3 hours ago Members Report Posted 3 hours ago It does seem to be on the gray side in the pics. It might look more like brown when it's laying against brown leather. Even on my chinese shoe patcher I've noticed that thread quality can make a big difference. I have to adjust the tension a bit for each different spool of thread. I got my best results with a small sample spool of good sumpin-er-other. I haven't forked out the bucks for the good stuff, because I never use that machine for production, just for repairs to various things. Quote
Contributing Member friquant Posted 2 hours ago Contributing Member Report Posted 2 hours ago Getting thread to stay in tension discs may require some trial and error. Upstream drag is on your side, and angles can also be on your side too. Angle On my 341 class machine using small threads (TEX 70 and TEX 135) I can get by with only tightening the second tensioner. But for TEX 270 I needed to add some tension from the first tensioner to keep the thread from popping out of the second tensioner. And to keep the thread from popping out of the first tensioner, I tilted the (silver) entry guide to the left about 55 degrees as shown in this photo. Upstream Drag Drag upstream of the actual tension discs is good for a couple things. It makes it harder for the thread to pop out of the tension discs. It also makes it harder for the thread to curl into loops. Here are a couple ways to increase upstream drag. The first option is to use all four holes in the thread guide pin (assuming your guide pin has four holes). Also note the post is installed in the machine such that it is not a direct path entering the first hole or exiting the last. Another way is to only use two holes. Go through the first hole, then do a full 180 or 360 around the post, and finally go through the second hole. Quote friquant. Like a frequent, piquant flyer. Check out my blog: Choosing a Motor for your Industrial Sewing Machine
kgg Posted 1 hour ago Report Posted 1 hour ago (edited) 4 hours ago, chuck123wapati said: so I ordered some from Springfield leather From your photo I would consider this a "GRAY" and would have call them or just sent it back. What does the label on the inside of the bottom of the cone say?? The label should spec: i) size ( Tex 45, #69, or T-70 etc.), ii) material (bonded nylon or polyamide 6.6, bonded polyester), iii) weight (4 oz, 8 oz, 16 oz or 1 lb), iv) tensile strength v) yardage vi) color code vii) lot number viii) date it was made ix) manufacturer details like A&E or American & Efird x) brand like A&E Anefil Beside inconsistency / quality problems No-name/ Generic / Unbranded / House brands sewing thread cones often have minimal or inconsistent labelling compared to established brands with just enough spec to meet bare legal limits compared to established brands. As a note my list of manufacturers in North America, probably not a complete list, are: i) 3a Throwing / Ames Textile https://3athrowing.com/index.html ii) Cansew https://cansew.com/ iii) A&E https://www.amefird.com/ iv) Maine Thread https://mainethread.com/en-ca v) Champion Thread https://championthread.com/products/industrial-sewing-threads/ vi) Miami Thread https://miamithread.com/ kgg Edited 1 hour ago by kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
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