thread quality or not

[chuck123wapati]

On a previous thread, I was having trouble getting proper tension on my Boss, and after several yards of thread and several very good observations from the folks here, I concluded that the thread was the problem, so I ordered some from Springfield leather. Turns out it was. I put it on and after setting the tension its runs perfectly.

So I thought I would add this thread, haha, because I see a lot of machine problems and solutions, but not many folks question the thread quality. I took a couple of photos to show the problem I encountered. 

1. The thread was wound so tightly on the spool that at every crossing, the thread was flattened.

2. The thread was also spun very tightly and was very slick; the second capstan-type tension thing couldn't work correctly. This would cause me to have to overtighten the first tension knob, causing the thread to twist and eventually kick out of the tension discs altogether.

My only half a**ed solution was to put a double wrap on the capstan tension thing. Then I could loosen the first knob and get a decent amount of work before the thread popped out of the first discs.

My only gripe about the Springfield thread is it's not brown. The sticker says brown my eyes, and the camera says grey. You be the judge. The brown thread is the Mandala, and the grey thread is the Springfield thread. Great thread, but at what point does someone looking at a case of grey thread with stickers saying it's brown question it?

I purchased the problem thread from Amazon, its brand name is Mandala Crafts. I wouldn't recommend it.

[TonyV]

It does seem to be on the gray side in the pics.  It might look more like brown when it's laying against brown leather.

Even on my chinese shoe patcher I've noticed that thread quality can make a big difference.  I have to adjust the tension a bit for each different spool of thread. I got my best results with a small sample spool of good sumpin-er-other.  I haven't forked out the bucks for the good stuff, because I never use that machine for production, just for repairs to various things.

 

[friquant]

Getting thread to stay in tension discs may require some trial and error. Upstream drag is on your side, and angles can also be on your side too.

Angle

On my 341 class machine using small threads (TEX 70 and TEX 135) I can get by with only tightening the second tensioner. But for TEX 270 I needed to add some tension from the first tensioner to keep the thread from popping out of the second tensioner. And to keep the thread from popping out of the first tensioner, I tilted the (silver) entry guide to the left about 55 degrees as shown in this photo.

 

Upstream Drag

Drag upstream of the actual tension discs is good for a couple things. It makes it harder for the thread to pop out of the tension discs. It also makes it harder for the thread to curl into loops.

Here are a couple ways to increase upstream drag. The first option is to use all four holes in the thread guide pin (assuming your guide pin has four holes). Also note the post is installed in the machine such that it is not a direct path entering the first hole or exiting the last.

Another way is to only use two holes. Go through the first hole, then do a full 180 or 360 around the post, and finally go through the second hole.

[kgg]

4 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

so I ordered some from Springfield leather

From your photo I would consider this a "GRAY" and would have call them or just sent it back.

What does the label on the inside of the bottom of the cone say?? The label should spec:

i) size ( Tex 45, #69, or T-70 etc.),

ii) material (bonded nylon or polyamide 6.6, bonded polyester),

iii) weight (4 oz, 8 oz, 16 oz or 1 lb),

iv) tensile strength 

v) yardage 

vi) color code

vii) lot number

viii) date it was made

ix) manufacturer details like A&E or American & Efird

x) brand like A&E Anefil

Beside inconsistency / quality problems No-name/ Generic / Unbranded / House brands sewing thread cones often have minimal or inconsistent labelling compared to established brands with just enough spec to meet bare legal limits compared to established brands. 

As a note my list of manufacturers in North America, probably not a complete list, are:

i) 3a Throwing / Ames Textile https://3athrowing.com/index.html

ii) Cansew https://cansew.com/

iii) A&E https://www.amefird.com/

iv) Maine Thread https://mainethread.com/en-ca

v) Champion Thread https://championthread.com/products/industrial-sewing-threads/

vi) Miami Thread https://miamithread.com/

kgg

 

 

Edited Saturday at 10:05 PM by kgg

[friquant]

I'm picky about the threads I use.

They need to be at least average in strength, cheap or free, and come in beautiful colors.

So I buy Selric. The bonded nylon is easy to thread and easy to sew, and comes in lots of colors. 

The UNbonded polyester also comes in lots of colors, but requires more effort when threading the needle thread because the loose end will fray easily. It's common for me to trim the end of the UNbonded thread one or more times before even arriving at the needle eye, and definitely clip it at least once before getting it through the eye. I know this is a hard sell so I'm going to make it. 

Once the needle thread is threaded, the UNbonded stuff sews just fine for me. UNbonded thread is my preferred for thin woven material, since it bends easier without the glue. Sometimes UNbonded thread will alert you that your hook to needle distance is larger than ideal. For example, the hook might catch one or two strands but not all three of the UNbonded thread. This is not always catastrophic---the thread often joins back together and marches along.

Did I mention beautiful colors? That's right---even for large sizes.

Some free thread (from someone's grandparent?) does go in the trash if it has lost its strength. But it doesn't lose its color.

 

[chuck123wapati]

On 3/14/2026 at 3:20 PM, kgg said:

From your photo I would consider this a "GRAY" and would have call them or just sent it back.

What does the label on the inside of the bottom of the cone say?? The label should spec:

i) size ( Tex 45, #69, or T-70 etc.),

ii) material (bonded nylon or polyamide 6.6, bonded polyester),

iii) weight (4 oz, 8 oz, 16 oz or 1 lb),

iv) tensile strength 

v) yardage 

vi) color code

vii) lot number

viii) date it was made

ix) manufacturer details like A&E or American & Efird

x) brand like A&E Anefil

Beside inconsistency / quality problems No-name/ Generic / Unbranded / House brands sewing thread cones often have minimal or inconsistent labelling compared to established brands with just enough spec to meet bare legal limits compared to established brands. 

As a note my list of manufacturers in North America, probably not a complete list, are:

i) 3a Throwing / Ames Textile https://3athrowing.com/index.html

ii) Cansew https://cansew.com/

iii) A&E https://www.amefird.com/

iv) Maine Thread https://mainethread.com/en-ca

v) Champion Thread https://championthread.com/products/industrial-sewing-threads/

vi) Miami Thread https://miamithread.com/

kgg

 

 

The mandala had a basic store tag stuck on the wrapping, size, and color. It's gone, I had to write it on the spool.

The Springfield had "their" store tag stuck on the spool with type, size, and color, who knows who actually made the stuff. It says it's brown, so who's to say different, right?

Ironically, the only reason I didn't buy from Thread Exchange, who actully sells good A&E thread with the original manufacturer's stickers, is that they didn't have brown in stock. 

The problem, the way I see it, with quality control is that there is no human element anymore. Someone takes an inventory of something they know nothing about, sends it to a computer that orders it from a computer that sends it. The person gets the order and sells it, not knowing if it's actually correct.  I also don't think resellers send back as much as they should, especially in leather. They pass it on to the consumer and rely on the send it back if you don't like it thing, because they get the same message from the manufacturers, and it's not profitable to send it back, is it? 

As for Amazon its buyer beware.

 

[chuck123wapati]

On 3/14/2026 at 1:33 PM, TonyV said:

It does seem to be on the gray side in the pics.  It might look more like brown when it's laying against brown leather.

Even on my chinese shoe patcher I've noticed that thread quality can make a big difference.  I have to adjust the tension a bit for each different spool of thread. I got my best results with a small sample spool of good sumpin-er-other.  I haven't forked out the bucks for the good stuff, because I never use that machine for production, just for repairs to various things.

 

Once you get them running, they are amazing and more fun than anything to sew with. I love mine and use it, it will sew as good a stitch as any machine.

[chuck123wapati]

On 3/14/2026 at 6:28 PM, friquant said:

I'm picky about the threads I use.

They need to be at least average in strength, cheap or free, and come in beautiful colors.

So I buy Selric. The bonded nylon is easy to thread and easy to sew, and comes in lots of colors. 

The UNbonded polyester also comes in lots of colors, but requires more effort when threading the needle thread because the loose end will fray easily. It's common for me to trim the end of the UNbonded thread one or more times before even arriving at the needle eye, and definitely clip it at least once before getting it through the eye. I know this is a hard sell so I'm going to make it. 

Once the needle thread is threaded, the UNbonded stuff sews just fine for me. UNbonded thread is my preferred for thin woven material, since it bends easier without the glue. Sometimes UNbonded thread will alert you that your hook to needle distance is larger than ideal. For example, the hook might catch one or two strands but not all three of the UNbonded thread. This is not always catastrophic---the thread often joins back together and marches along.

Did I mention beautiful colors? That's right---even for large sizes.

Some free thread (from someone's grandparent?) does go in the trash if it has lost its strength. But it doesn't lose its color.

 

lol I have some threads for home machines that are on wooden spools with paper labels, they are so old. They were from my mom's sewing stuff.