Members TroyWest Posted February 25, 2008 Members Report Posted February 25, 2008 After reading about some problems some folks were having dyeing leather black I thought I would share an effective method that you can make yourself and after dyeing it will not come out when wet . I have always hated dyeing anything black because it was so messy and this is simple and easy and I don't even mind occasionally dying a belt black for a friend anymore. This was told to me by an old saddlemaker who said many of the old black parade saddles were dyed in this manner. After trying it, I can believe it. Ingredients: vinegar, rusty metal....really...read on I went to Walmart and bought a half gallon of white vineger, about a buck and a half. Went home, took the cap off and I had a bag full of rusty #3 nails and put rusty nails in that half gallon jug til the liquid came to the top. Then just put the cap back on. I tried it after about 3 days but it wasn't quite ready.After a week it was pretty good and after that it just gets stronger. Just as a side note, anything rusty will work, my brother put an old chain saw blade in his. It kinda takes on the appearance of a nasty tea. What I have done is just take a large kitchen bowl, put it in the sink, and pour in the solution. Then just take the belt and stick in one end and run it through, usually a couple of times, sometimes three. You might think, oh man, this is ugly...ugly as a yellow yard dog...Actually I had a yellow yard dog that was quite handsome. Let's go with...ugly, ugly as an empty glass of buttermilk... cause it won't be purdy. It will be kind of dark greyish brownish...Let it dry.. Then apply oil...It will turn the prettiest shade of black...black as the ace of spades and you can't rub the black out on your fingers. You'll really think that was way too easy! I eventually took the nails out of my mix 'cause it kind of keeps digesting the nails, but I've had this mixed up for at least 9 months and it still seems as effective as ever. This is for veg. tan leather, like skirting so a holster maker could completely make a holster, then dip it in this solution with no problem. The vinegar smell doesn't stay in the leather after a few days and I have had no problems applying a finish. I usually use Tan-Kote, but have applied Neat-Lac also, no problem. Another thing I found was the leather dyed black all the way through and it did not affect the color of my thread at all, I use poly thread. I'm sure it would not affect nylon, I don't know about linen. I recommend you mix up a batch, try it on some scrap first before a finished item. I really have had excellent success with this method. The items I have dyed black turned out really beautiful, and I don't mind dyeing anything black anymore. Happy dyeing...not dieing..dyeing Quote
Members Randy Cornelius Posted February 25, 2008 Members Report Posted February 25, 2008 I knew there had to be a better way. I have got to try this. Does the metal have to be real rusty before you put it in? Randy Quote Randy Cornelius Cornelius Saddlery LaCygne, Kansas Randy & Riley Cornelius Ride Hard, Shoot Fast and Always Tell the Truth...
Contributing Member barra Posted February 25, 2008 Contributing Member Report Posted February 25, 2008 (edited) I will endorse Troys' method as that is also the method I use. I just use the cheapest steel wool I can find. Jam a heap in a glass coffee jar and cover with the vinegar. I did have a very nasty accident when I knocked over the jar. The black blotch annoyed me so much I just took the rest and painted the whole bench top. Wood workers also use this formular on timber. The most common term I have heard it called is Ebonising. Barra. Edited February 25, 2008 by barra Quote "If You're not behind the Troops, please feel free to stand in front of them"
Contributing Member Regis Posted February 25, 2008 Contributing Member Report Posted February 25, 2008 QUOTE: "It will be kind of dark greyish brownish...Let it dry.. Then apply oil...It will turn the prettiest shade of black...black as the ace of spades and you can't rub the black out on your fingers." What do you use for oil? Neatsfoot or ??? Quote God, Family, and Country (although liberals are attempting to destroy these in the USA)
Members TroyWest Posted February 25, 2008 Author Members Report Posted February 25, 2008 Randy, my metal was already rusty, I never made it without it. Have you ever laid a nail on a piece of wet leather and then the leather turned black where the nail was? I'm sure the ferrous oxide in the metal leaches onto the leather and this process is simply a controlled method of that. My guess is that the nails or metal probably would not have to be. You could sure try it. The oil I use is pure neatsfoot oil, but I experimented using my wifes vegetable oil and the effect was the same. Quote
Members Warren Posted February 25, 2008 Members Report Posted February 25, 2008 Thanks for the info, really appreciate it! Warren Quote
Members ChuckBurrows Posted February 25, 2008 Members Report Posted February 25, 2008 (edited) A word of caution - I've been using this method - old timers in the USA called it vinegaroon - for better than 35 years and while this is a great stain there is an extra step that many folks don't use and should - that is one should neutralize, if you don't you can have problems later on with the leather disintegrating. To neutralize I mix 3 tablespoons of baking soda in a quart of warm water (it may be best to use distilled water depending n the quality of your tap water. Once dissolved saturate the leather well and then rinse with clear water. Let dry and while still damp add a coat or two of your favorite leather oil. Actually this is technically a reagent since the ferric acetate - the chemical name for iron mixed with vinegar which has acetic acid in it - reacts with the tannins and turns the leather black. You can also add a coat of strong brewed black tea first which will increase the tannins and help darken the reaction if need be. Nicest part - there is absolutely NO rub off! PS - for the iron you can use 00 or 000 steel wool - soak the steel wool in acetone first to degrease, let set for 5 minutes, then plop the steel wool in a heavy pan that has a cover - light the steel wool off with a propane torch - let burn for just a bit and then cover to put out the last of the flames. Or you can just use the steel wool after degreasing with acetone and let dry thoroughly then add to the vinegar. Using rusty iron/steel speeds the process up is all. Edited February 25, 2008 by ChuckBurrows Quote Wild Rose Trading Company Two roads diverged in a wood, and I, I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference.
Members LarryB Posted February 25, 2008 Members Report Posted February 25, 2008 Thanks for sharing this. I'm going to make me some and give it a try. Sure a lot cheaper.... and easier to use like you said. Quote www.larrysleatherwork.com
Members LuisPaulo Posted February 26, 2008 Members Report Posted February 26, 2008 Hi. I'll try this. Here I can't get good comercial dyes and blcak dye always rubs off. Chuck, glad to see here, I'm your fan. Just a little question : On sheaths and holsters, is there any problem on affect the metal ? Regards from Brazil. Quote
Contributing Member barra Posted February 26, 2008 Contributing Member Report Posted February 26, 2008 A word of caution - I've been using this method - old timers in the USA called it vinegaroon - for better than 35 years and while this is a great stain there is an extra step that many folks don't use and should - that is one should neutralize, if you don't you can have problems later on with the leather disintegrating. To neutralize I mix 3 tablespoons of baking soda in a quart of warm water (it may be best to use distilled water depending n the quality of your tap water. Once dissolved saturate the leather well and then rinse with clear water. Let dry and while still damp add a coat or two of your favorite leather oil. Actually this is technically a reagent since the ferric acetate - the chemical name for iron mixed with vinegar which has acetic acid in it - reacts with the tannins and turns the leather black. You can also add a coat of strong brewed black tea first which will increase the tannins and help darken the reaction if need be. Nicest part - there is absolutely NO rub off! PS - for the iron you can use 00 or 000 steel wool - soak the steel wool in acetone first to degrease, let set for 5 minutes, then plop the steel wool in a heavy pan that has a cover - light the steel wool off with a propane torch - let burn for just a bit and then cover to put out the last of the flames. Or you can just use the steel wool after degreasing with acetone and let dry thoroughly then add to the vinegar. Using rusty iron/steel speeds the process up is all. Good point about the neutralising Chuck. I will add just a slight word of caution. Now I realise that most are not going to use huge amounts of acetone but now that we are into the OHSA days we refer to this stuff as killa you dead chit. same as MEK we used to bath in the stuff. A lot of leather dye has acetone in it. I can not even enter one of those nail salons for the smell these days. Barra Quote "If You're not behind the Troops, please feel free to stand in front of them"
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.