A thread thread

[jimsaddler]

Can I add my little bit to this thread please, as one of those who has more than a few years of Hand sewing under my Belt.

Firstly there is only one needle for Hand sewing medium to heavy Leather, thats the Egg Eyed Harness Needle. As small as you can draw through the Awl hole!

Thread;

Linen will outlast Synthetic if used properly.

I repaired Traces that had been sewn in 1927, some years ago and the Linen was probably as good as when it was sewn in by my Great Grandfather. It took a lot of effort to remove it so that I could do a splice to join a new tip in. Also I repaired Harness made in the early 1800's and the Linen was still holding up well. As well as this I have Harness and Saddles made in the early 60's that are still going strong.

By the same token I replaced Poly Bond thread ( very reputable Brand name) I used in Harness 12 years before and it was rotten.

I do recall being told by Thread manufacturers in the 70's & 80's that the problem with Synthetics was the half life was 7 years, so don't use it for Products that are meant to last longer. They were right, as I've seen more Synthetics break down than Linen. Add a bit of Beeswax and Resin and you can be sure of Linen outlasting Synthetics.

Lately I've been using a Braided waxed Polyester that seems to be allright but now I'll have to wait another 20 years to see if it will stand up the Job. I add a good rub of Beeswax & Resin when I use it for Handsewing. But I haven't found a real good Braid for Machine sewing yet.

So now see if you can convince me my view is not right?

Kindest Regards.

Jim.

[Art]

Bonded means in short, that there is a resin applied to the thread to keep it "bonded" together. Non-bonded (soft) thread unravels easily and gets all fuzzy when run through a machine.

Art

Speaking of thread types, what exactly does the term "bonded nylon" or "bonded polyester" mean?

L'Bum

[Leather Bum]

Thanks for explaining that, Art.

Thread;

Linen will outlast Synthetic if used properly. . . Add a bit of Beeswax and Resin and you can be sure of Linen outlasting Synthetics.

What is the proper way to use linen to make it last longer than nylon or polyester? And what exactly is the "resin" that you apply to the thread?

L'Bum

[Hilly]

Thanks for explaining that, Art.

What is the proper way to use linen to make it last longer than nylon or polyester? And what exactly is the "resin" that you apply to the thread?

L'Bum

I'm wondering the same thing.

Jim?

[jimsaddler]

"What is the proper way to use linen to make it last longer than nylon or polyester? And what exactly is the "resin" that you apply to the thread?"

Well I guess that the simplest way to answer this is as follows.

I was taught before the Synthetics came on the scene, so each morning the first job was to make your threads for the Day. Depending on the work that day it might be say 3 hours Hand sewing. Three threads per hour equals 9 threads thats 9 minutes work to roll them. Well there was a pride thing involved with my Bench Mate Reg and I so we made up our Normal Saddle Sewing Wax as follows ;

Beeswax (unrefined) about a pound, Resin (Rosin, Pine resin, Dusting Rosin for Chaps and Gloves) depending on the seasons Temperature from a lump the size of a wallnut in summer to an Egg in winter (crushed very fine), 1 teaspoon of either Linseed or Castor Oil.

Use a Hot Glue Pot or an old Saucepan sitting in a bigger Pot of Boiling Water, to melt the Wax and Resin together. When the wax and Resin are well melted, stir them to combine then add the Oil. You should Have a large Tub of cold Water handy. Pour some ( aprox 1/3rd) of the mixture into the tub in one spot, carefully pull the wax out of the water remembering that the center is still very hot but the outside is cool and crusted to-gether.

Knead the water out of the Wax carefully, then work the Wax by pulling it into a sausage then doubling it and repeating the process until it is pliable.

Break off lumps that will fit comfortably in your hand when rubbing it on the Thread. Some like it the size of Pigeon Eggs, some the size of Eggs. I like it in the middle.

This wax will melt into the Thread when you rub it vigorously onto the Thread when you use off the Spool for Hand Sewing. I'll go into making Waxed Ends at a later time as they are the longest lasting of all.

Right, when you sew make sure that you keep your Hands clean.

Please have a Happy Day.

Jim.

[TroyWest]

Jimsaddler, I always enjoy reading what you have to say.

Troy West

[jimsaddler]

Many thanks Troy,

I appreciate the comments. I've got nearly 50 years of Saddlers and Harness tips that are there for the asking as I can't take them with me.

Kindest regards.

Jim.

[Oscar B]

http://www.sailrite.com/Which-Thread-or-Ne...34Pa38Ta38Pbxn0

[Aart]

Trust Jimsaddler, same recipe here in Europe. Beeswax, Resin and Linseed oil. Just this... I'm in Southern France so there is no need for a winter and summer version.

I'm just an amateur (and have been for over 40 years using my own hand material on my own bred horses) But these threads do last. Mistral sun and sweat.

Et un coup de chapeau for Jim.

Best regards

Aart.

[stanly]

this has all been helpful.....so, what about Rice where they have a letter size:

Rice Polyamide Silamide Thread Spools Size - F / 140 yards:

$4.50

Rice / N.B.T. Brand Silamide Waxed Thread Skeins Size - A / 675 yards:

$6.50

I'm guessing this is a thinner thread?