jimsaddler

Hi Terry It would have been nice if you answered the note that I sent you on Face Book. I have included it under to remind you. I think that you have been misled to put this Notice in the Forum. I do note you told me the motor was working alright. The past year has been a write off for me as I told you. I apologise if you didn't get the Messages, Honestly I thought the Roller Guide had been sent a long time ago. I do not ever try to cheat any Customers. Quite the contrary I try to help where ever I can. I will catch up with you as soon as the new shipment of parts arrive, possibly in April. Sorry for the mix-up if you knew me personally you would not say these things as they are Defamatory. The Cowboy Machines are much Better than the Colt by the Way as I have had to recondition some near new ones with new Structural parts. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler. I am sorry for the problem I've been in and out of Hospital all last year, added to that My wife has cleared out with a Jail Bird. You may even know him, he;s from Darwin, ................., now on the run for not reporting to his parole officer. Anyway My problem is that the Machine Motor parts have never arrived, The roller guide was put in a Bubble pack to send as soon as the Motor part arrived. Now its gone missing too. Probably put in the Garbage by my Ex. My next shipment should be loaded in late March/ April and hopefully the parts will be in it. I'm not trying to rip you off this has been a year not to remember as it wore me down so much and I've still got 2 operations to go. Must go now and sort out another problem with my family. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Give me a ring on 07 4126 2241 or mail to <gsaddler@bigpond.com> and I can help you with your choice. I'm in Q,land. Cowboy range is the best choice and we have them and use them. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler

I couldn't have said it better "Now, the REASON an awl is preferred over a drilled or punched out hole is that an awl's hole will close up around the thread to keep out dirt, grime, and gunk that can deteriorate the thread. The awl pierces the leather and more or less 'shoves' the leather out of the way....and it'll move back in time to where only a slit marking the width of the awl will be visible. A drilled or punched hole removes the leather from the hole, and while it may close up a bit, it'll never fully close." I endorse what you are saying as it is a basic reason why Hand Sewing has been arround for thousands of years and hasn't changed basically. I will try to get some examples of proper Hand Sewing posted if I can get assistance on the Camera. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Proper Hand Sewing usually runs at aprox 3 to 3.2 stitches per minute if done with the Awl and Needles being the only implements. That is at #8 per inch. Pre Drilling or punching holes and the like is much slower and inefficient. All good stitching takes is practice and patience. I used to have Ladies stitching for me who would average up to 30inches per hour at #8spi all day on heavy 10-12mm Harness Traces. Also they were as neat on the back as the front. The secret was loud Church Music! They just did it mechanically while listening to the Music. 240 stitches every hour for 8 hours per day and then do 4 hours overtime after a meal. So come on you Stitchers give it a go, there's only one method that is worth using and that is use the Awl to make the holes and don't put the needles down. It's the fastest way and the best. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Use a firm Punch Board to punch on. I use a Lead block. Nylon cutting Boards are good, end grain Hardwood etc. I never drill because of the burning effect of the Drill bit friction. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Art You appear to be lucky. If the Chrome is chipped or removed then it is for sure it will mark damp or moist Leather. Also the Feric residue will be left on dry natural Veg and many times when it is damped it will cause a stain. This is born out by so many others in the Leather Trades being aware of this. As you should be aware with your extensive knowledge of Machines. Steel, cracked Chrome or chipped Nickel plating and Damp Veg Tanned Leather don't mix!! So might we please get on with the job of enjoying the Forum and not try to build up one Machine above the other. Steve is a nice Guy and sells a nice Machine. It seems he doesn't require all of this help to sell his machines especially on the Forum. Especially when you are going against the established well known knowledge of the Leather Trades. Stainless doesn't Stain, Steel does unless it's properly plated. Hence Stainless can be ground, shaped to suit and Polished without causing problems. Please Have a Happy Day. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler. Hi Jim, I can agree with the part on altering the foot. I have never experienced problems with marking as you describe. I have modified feet for particular operations and have not had trouble with them even though I took the chrome off. When I approched this with Steve (Cobra) he started manufacturing those feet and including them in his accessory package. They produced what I required. Art

Hi Art As the one who sugested that Cowboy create the Stainless Steel Feet, Needle Plates. As a user for some 50 odd years of Sewing Machines on Leather, I have found that there is Leakage from all Chromed or Nickel Plated Feet! Good Leather contains Tannic Acid and or other Acids which react with these Platings to cause Ferric Stains on Damp Leather, especiallywhen there is slight damage from wear and tear. My Father who was a non-ferris and Feric Moulder, advised me many years ago that Stainless Steel was the only way to go to find Feet or Needle Plates that would not leave the Grey to Black stains on Damp Leather when sewing. Also the resulting items could be altered and Buffed up without affecting the stainless capability they posess. Cowboy took my advice on board and after a bit of trial came up with the Feet and Plates that are supplied at no estra cost to the Buyer. Result! Say you want to alter the Harness Foot set to sew very close up on Buckles or Rings. Just grind more off the Heel and Toe the Buff it up to shine again, then use it! "No discolouration of the Leather". Just a wonderful practical and efficient Tool that save time and effort without cost. Plated Steel Feet etc are now superceded, thank goodness and Cowboy have followed the Tradespeoples advice all the while and produced what we require. Hence the reliable products of to-day. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Easy answer! Practice, Practice, Practice. Then when you think you've practiced enough, do some more practice!!! Several points I see. your thread should go around the second tension roller a second time to create even pull. you have to perfect your position on turning corners (the needle should have just picked up the thread before making a turn) Stop with the Thread take-up arm at its highest point so the is no slack to pick up. also hold the ends of your threads firmly when making the first few stitches to stop tails getting under the needle plate. Oil the machine regularly. This looks like it is in very good order and should do the work you want to do easily. The old 45K25 is still one of the best Leather Machines that was ever produced. I still like them for decorative stitching on Patent Leather up to 3/8" thick. The Stand is a Gem, made the way they all should be made! 4 cord or #18 Linen thread is what they were made for so perservere and you will learn that you have a good one. Also please remember that the roller Foot is pressing on the one side so you have to counter by ever so slightly putting pressure on the other side as you feed it through. So go for it and practice, practice and practice, then when you are sure you have it right, have another practice. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Barra I couldn't have said it better. The only difference when I make loops is my Clams are like mini Stitching Clams made from a 1'" x 1/8" Stainless Steel that I ground to shape of a pair of Clams with 1/2" jaws each side then carefully folded in the middle to shape to allow them fit nicely but leaving a space of aprox 1 1/4" for Spring, hey presto 40 years later they are still prefect for the Job of being inserted in the Clams to hold the Loops. My originals were made of Galvanised Iron sheet cut to shape with snips. but they didn't last more than 6 months at a time. Hence the use of SS Steel. They are also used for holding the Billet Hooks in place while sewing them in. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Quick comment on the 45K 25 Clones. Even stitches are achieved by Operater Skill! Hand pressure is applied fore(rt hand) and aft (lft hand) to make sure the Materials are fed through evenly. Buff the Feed Dog teeth very well and the Dog won't pierce the underside of the work. Then simply rub the marks with a piece of heavy canvas to rub them out. For Skirting Leather damp it slightly then rub it out. These Machines were developed for use with proper Veg Tanned Leathers like Bridle or Harness which don't mark very badly. Lets face it Veg embossing is not properly finished Leather, so it is expected that there will be some finishing involved before it is finished for use. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Please guys and Gals I've stayed off commenting on this subject as it is so mixed up by too many cooks spoiling the Broth. Simply said Resin (Rosin or whatever) 2 part, Beeswax 20 parts, Oil 1 part (Olive, Linseed, Castor,etc) Melt Resin in Double saucepan or Smaller Saucpan in Pot of boiling Water. Add oil gradually when melted to combine. Add Beeswax in slivers or crushed gradually to combine with Oil & Resin. Check that Resin doesn't cool and go streaky as you go, if so stop adding wax till the mix is hot enough to continue. When all is combined properly it will be clear. Pour into Bucket of Cool (room temp) Water carefully in several portions, to form a clump. Take this from the Water carefully and start to squeeze the water out carefully. fold the cooler outer crust into the hot core this well even out the temp of the wax into a plastic lump. Keep squeezing the water out and kneading the wax all the time. The mix should not stick to your hands at all!! Break off lumps about the size of a Hens Egg and knead them into Egg shapes. Then repeat with the other wax which should be still up to Temp from sitting over the hot water. The oil is the varient for Summer or Winter Wax, More for winter less for Summer. Resin is constant always at 1 part to 10 Wax. This wax doesn't respond to pulling, as this is Saddlers Wax. Black Wax is the one to pull as the Pitch responds to the pulling like Toffee. In the old days White wax was pulled because White Lead was added for the Whitening effect. Nowa days we know that this Was was the cause of Illness or premature Death by Lead Poisoning of a number of stitchers who used such. I've used this recipe for some 50 years without much change, it stays cleaner and lasts longer on the thread if properly made and used. More Resin makes a dirtier Job as sticky hands accumulate dirt easily, so shorter threads have to be used. Good sewing is done with Long clean threads. I hope this will clarify this subject better. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Robc Left handed makes a lot of difference. I had a worker who was left handed and while she was learning she could never make a good stitch as she was copying us RT handers. Then she took her Awl and Needles home and came back stitching her way which was back to front to our way. Suffice it to say she ended up as a very fast stitcher and very neat without using a Pricking Iron. Her stitching was the same slope as a Sewing Machine. What you need is lots of practice, try a Waxed Braided Polyester Thread. There are pricking irons for LH stitchers in the UK if you ask arround. Maybe The Whiskered Bat might get you a lead. What I see in your photo's is a reasonable effort just needing practice and a bit more practice. By the way through your back stitch forward and up over the needle to get you front side looking right. I hope this is of help to you. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

No Qld is safe as long as you stay out of the Big Cities like I do. See what you can find in Leather there as all of our Leather is imported now unfortunately. It may be a cost advantage, if reliable. I look forward to helping. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Hi Pinsplitter One of the comments was right. Start with a prototype and then work out what is required to produce the end Product. If you are back in Australia you can come to to Qld to my Workshop and Fiddle with the Cowboy range of Machines and I have a good stock of Leather. Its a service I run for other Saddlers and Harness Makers to improve their Skills. (I'm semi retired but can't let go of My Trades of Saddler & Harness Maker). So this is how I keep my Brain active, by sharing. I made a number of Golf Bags over the years, utilizing the normal Shop Machines like the 45K25 and a bit of Hand Sewing for closing. Nowa days we have such beaut Machines to use like the 441 class, the Bags can be made and turned with ease. My experience with the places you mention is not good as unless you can be there watching every day. You'll end up broke like the many who went before you. I spent 19yrs in the Pacific and was called the Survivor because I was able to survive the Shrinkage (Theft) that is naturally occurring. The offer is there if you want it.<gsaddler@bigpond.com> Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Al I thought you and other Members might be interested that I have an inventory of Pearson A1 parts now.Including New and used Shuttles, Bobbins, Needles, Feet and Pricker Feet (overstitch), Needle Plates and various other hard to get Genuine Parts. Regarding the Pitman They were not real fancy just similar to the Pearson Six. I have photo's somewhere and when I find them I'll send you copies. The A1 was and is a good machine for neat Stitching. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi all. I've noticed the comments about the Singer 45K 25 and its cloned class machines not being suitable for sewing Leather. Well I must be a fool as I used these and still use them for my BEST Harness Decorative stitching. For accurate, neat sewing, I've not been able to get better. Well they do leave a Feed Dog mark on the under surface, if you don't polish the Teeth well to start with. If this is done they dont break the surface of the Leather and the marks are easily polished off with a rubbing stick or bone. 45 K operators were an actual Trade in years gone by, all the Factory work was done by them. Hand Bags, Wallets, School Bags, Brief Cases, Surgical Footwear, Harness Work, Saddle Making, the list is endless. So please don't knock them. Trouble is nowa-days what was a days work for so many is now a Craft for so Few! We have to go back and see how they did it so well? Kindest Regards. im Saddler.

Hi I use old Tobacco tins and have done so for some 50 years. The important thing to do when storing your Needles is to put a little Talcum Powder in the container to stop the Rust setting on the Needles. I have an Erinmore Pipe Tobacco Tin I have used all my life, it still has some of the #7 Needles from the late 50's along with others either loose or in the original pkts. Never had any problems with dropping as those old tins were made tough. Later I got some Soap Boxes for storing Awl Blades, added Talcum, again no problems. With Needle Purses I've seen over the years the needles would eventually get rusty unless smeared with Vaseline and Talcum powder. Hope this of help. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

When you talk about Treadles. I use my old Singer Pedal (not Treadle) and change the Heads around as required. Heads include: Cowboy 7441 16" Arm for Heavy Saddle & Harness Work, (Adler Clone) 205, for medium work, Cowboy 105 clone or 45K25, for Fancy Stitching on Winkers and Back Saddle Flaps. Better than any Motor for accuracy, the back pedal drive means instant control and power. Only Problem is they are very hard to find in good order. I'm actually contemplating getting mine copied in China if there is enough interest in my doing so. That may stop the incessant stream of enquires of " how much will convince you to part with it? Seriously these were one of Singers best inventions for Saddlers. Originally they were made for the Singer 7- classes in the late 1800's which required a bit of oomphff to power. I've included a link to the Singer Illustration of the Stand. Much better than any Hand Crank! Also Eko Friendly. <http://www.ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/images0-99/7-1.jpg> Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Aussie Boy This Machine is in excellent condition as I've seen it and was very impressed with the Flat bed Table someone has made for it. Basically it is the same as the 45K25 and does the same work. It should last you for years. Of course the advantage it has is over the 45K25 is the Reverse. Have Fun with it. I'm just down the road from Steve so I go and see the Goodies as they come in. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Paradox When you sew any item you use place dots or marks to ensure that you are not gathering or stretching the item. For items such as you are making, start by marking where the corners meet the body and put a small mark on each with a fine felt pen. then mark the bottom and the body where they are to meet up by putting dots exactly opposite each other approx 1.5inches apart. this will eliminate the guess work and the gathering that is happening now. Gringo bill is right about stitching at a 45% angle and using a heavier bottom piece. You will note that this method is used in most Cases and Luggage. The corner stitches are simply made by making a larger outside stitch angled to make a smaller stitch on the base to accommodate the corners neatly. A stitch groove is used in the bottom but only a guideline on the body so that the lighter leather doesn't allow the stitches to pull in too far. I hope this of help to you. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Suicide Their are several comments to make about the Stitching methods in this stitching method. The size of the Awl needs to be very large to accomodate the both Needles. Good Handsewing is achieved by using the smallest Awl size possible to match the Needles and Thread. To end off your Stitching the last Stitch is thrown over twice and then a back stitch is done which is also locked with a double throw to lock it. You also start with the same method. I hope this is of assistance. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

You've got it figured right in the second video. You throw the thread up and over the needle (away from you). Practice makes perfect, you have to get comfortable with the Awl and Needles to the stage you are not able to stitch without them in your hands. As far as the Thread twist the S twist is right to use, the throw in the first video was causing the unravel it appears. The Video is a necessary project as I am now running Australian Saddle and Harness Making classes and am surprised at how many experienced Stitchers have problems keeping their Awl and Needles in Hand, as that is the Secret to Good Hand Sewing! At present I have large Kidney Stones in both Kidneys which make me very uncomfortable when I stitch. To-morrow one side will be blasted, so I should get some relief (after 2yrs of waiting ) to do the Video. One of my Students commented thata Video would make life easier for him to be prompted. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Jonabo Basically you are using a left handed Z twist thread to sew right handed, so the thread is unravelling with both methods, Right Hand Sewing should be done with Right S twist thread. The comment about using the Braided Waxed Thread for hand sewing will overcome this. Also I think that you may be doubling the knot, as the back stitch should be pulled in as well the front. Which a single throw will allow to happen. Then the front stitch will have the same slope as the front ////// \\\\\\ remember the back is a mirror of the front as far as the Awl hole is positioned.from the top side. I'm out of action at present waiting on a small Operation, after this I should be able to do more and will get a Video showing how it is done. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.