jimsaddler

<br /><br /><br />David is right there is no need to remove the "Saddle Nails" as they only hold the Skirts or Flaps in place. But is you do have to remove them use a Tack claw to unclench them as they are usually clenched over under the Tree. Then drive them out gently or carefully prise the Head out with Pincers or Tack Claw. Have a Happy Day. Jim.

Has any one tried using a safety razor blade split in half? I briefly tried with a old one from my razor, didn't seem to go well. Not sure if its to flexible or just not sharp enough. The Safety Razor used to work with my old Strander as it had a very fine slit in the top to take it, but it got "borrowed". I just use narrow Stanley Knife Break off blades now as the Top of my new one is now a Roller type. For David Morris is that Dean Williams from R Ms I'd like to catch up with him if I can. Kindest regard. Jim.

Dear Outback sorry for the quip about selling Books. In the Trade we get quips all the time that we are doing it wrong because we saw to way to do it properly in a Book. This has been a set back to communications between those who know and those that want to learn. The Tradesman promptly says to himself, "why waste time sharing knowledge" and shuts up. In my early days I knew most of the Plaiters, Saddlers & Harness Makers, of the time and there were very few. They shared with me a lot of Knowledge because I listened and practised what they taught me and went back for more. Now I am able to share that Knowledge as a result. Unfortunately a lot of Books are written on the Trades and a lot of them did not get facts right as they were outside looking in. This what has upset me at times and the reason for the quip. Now for a bit more on Stranding Aussie style. In actual fact the R M Strander is not the absolute best. Your Right hand Thumbnail as a Guide and a Sharp worn down Clickers Knife held between the Rt Thumb and index Finger are. All the old Whippy's used this method and it was faster ( but rough on the Skin). R M developed the Strander to save sore Thumbs, it is an exact copy of the action of Thumb Stranding . I saw the Stranders using it in 5 Percy St in the early 70's for Commercial Stranding of Roo Skin but with a handle welded on for easier Hold So try my methd and you'll see the logic of the Trade. Kindest Regards. Jim

"The strander is used on the left thumb (right handed people) Lay the skin on a bench and with a piece of string and marking tool draw a circle. Fix the circle of leather to your bench with a tack in the center and let the edge overhang a little on the side you are working." Can I add a few points here please. Firstly I must be a bungler as I use the (R.M. Williams) Strander on my Rt Index Finger and pull the Strand away from the Hide with my left hand and have done so for for nearly 50 years. It's by far the best to use. BUT it takes practice, Pratice and more practice to get perfect Strands. Secondly if I was to strand from a circle I'd go broke very quickly. Thats for people with money to waste!! or to make money from writing Books. If you are using a full hide you trim the Hide to eliminate the Flabby or stretchy spots (Belly etc) and are left with an Egg shape. The day before you start Stranding Mellow the Hide with water and Saddle Soap and roll it up in Calico or Hessian then Plastic. Next day then trim arround the hide to give a square edge for the Strander to run on. Then lay the Hide on a Table (or if you can get a Chinese revolving Banquet Table even better) and sit yourself with the Hide under your left Arm, make a cut the width of the Strand you're cutting long enough to get hold of and start pulling the Strand through with your left hand. Your right hand being the Strander hand, your right index Finger being through the Strander and your Rt Thumb being the guide. If your Blade is sharp the Strander will do all the work for you effortlessly. As soon as it gets hard to pull Change the Blade ( I used to sharpen them on a Glass Stone). The sujestion to practice on a bit of Veg Tan is spot on Start light then get heavier. I forgot to say that as corners get to small to turn trim them into easier to manage curves. Whe you've cut your Strand pull it Straight between a Glove greased with Saddle Soap (rounds the edges a bit too). Kindest Regards. Jim.

Many thanks Troy, I appreciate the comments. I've got nearly 50 years of Saddlers and Harness tips that are there for the asking as I can't take them with me. Kindest regards. Jim.

"What is the proper way to use linen to make it last longer than nylon or polyester? And what exactly is the "resin" that you apply to the thread?" Well I guess that the simplest way to answer this is as follows. I was taught before the Synthetics came on the scene, so each morning the first job was to make your threads for the Day. Depending on the work that day it might be say 3 hours Hand sewing. Three threads per hour equals 9 threads thats 9 minutes work to roll them. Well there was a pride thing involved with my Bench Mate Reg and I so we made up our Normal Saddle Sewing Wax as follows ; Beeswax (unrefined) about a pound, Resin (Rosin, Pine resin, Dusting Rosin for Chaps and Gloves) depending on the seasons Temperature from a lump the size of a wallnut in summer to an Egg in winter (crushed very fine), 1 teaspoon of either Linseed or Castor Oil. Use a Hot Glue Pot or an old Saucepan sitting in a bigger Pot of Boiling Water, to melt the Wax and Resin together. When the wax and Resin are well melted, stir them to combine then add the Oil. You should Have a large Tub of cold Water handy. Pour some ( aprox 1/3rd) of the mixture into the tub in one spot, carefully pull the wax out of the water remembering that the center is still very hot but the outside is cool and crusted to-gether. Knead the water out of the Wax carefully, then work the Wax by pulling it into a sausage then doubling it and repeating the process until it is pliable. Break off lumps that will fit comfortably in your hand when rubbing it on the Thread. Some like it the size of Pigeon Eggs, some the size of Eggs. I like it in the middle. This wax will melt into the Thread when you rub it vigorously onto the Thread when you use off the Spool for Hand Sewing. I'll go into making Waxed Ends at a later time as they are the longest lasting of all. Right, when you sew make sure that you keep your Hands clean. Please have a Happy Day. Jim.

Can I add my little bit to this thread please, as one of those who has more than a few years of Hand sewing under my Belt. Firstly there is only one needle for Hand sewing medium to heavy Leather, thats the Egg Eyed Harness Needle. As small as you can draw through the Awl hole! Thread; Linen will outlast Synthetic if used properly. I repaired Traces that had been sewn in 1927, some years ago and the Linen was probably as good as when it was sewn in by my Great Grandfather. It took a lot of effort to remove it so that I could do a splice to join a new tip in. Also I repaired Harness made in the early 1800's and the Linen was still holding up well. As well as this I have Harness and Saddles made in the early 60's that are still going strong. By the same token I replaced Poly Bond thread ( very reputable Brand name) I used in Harness 12 years before and it was rotten. I do recall being told by Thread manufacturers in the 70's & 80's that the problem with Synthetics was the half life was 7 years, so don't use it for Products that are meant to last longer. They were right, as I've seen more Synthetics break down than Linen. Add a bit of Beeswax and Resin and you can be sure of Linen outlasting Synthetics. Lately I've been using a Braided waxed Polyester that seems to be allright but now I'll have to wait another 20 years to see if it will stand up the Job. I add a good rub of Beeswax & Resin when I use it for Handsewing. But I haven't found a real good Braid for Machine sewing yet. So now see if you can convince me my view is not right? Kindest Regards. Jim.

Hey try Piddling on your fingers at night. (This is aproffesional tip) I was told this whe I started up many years ago and have passed it onto every learner I have taught since (over 1.000) It forms the callouses faster. Just a little word also, use your whole hand to take the strain on the Thread when sewing very heavy items and you'll get better tension, no stitches will show. Thimbles etc only prolong the agony, 8 or 10 days of stitching will harden up your hands. Are you Beeswaxing your threads? Beeswax also helps to condition your Calouses. Please have a Happy day. Regards Jim.

Hey Barra Where are you from? You seem familiar to me. Jim

Hey this is interesting. All the comments have merit. Please allow me to run through a few things on Hand Sewing as I've done a we bit of in my time and taught groups of up to 60 how to do it commercially. Firstly, The right Needle for the Thread size is important as is the right size Awl. #2 & #3 Harness Egg Eye Needles will probably be the best sizes for general use for Holsters and a 4 or 3 Cord thread. For ease of sewing make your own threads from Saddlers Hemp and a mixture of Beeswax and Resin (Rosin). I won't go into the Making at this stage, leave that for later. Glovers needles are too sharp and should only be used where you need to pierce the Leather singly! If using pre-waxed Thread. To keep your thread clean you should polish the Wax into it before sewing. Secure the middle of the Thread on a Bench Hook or nail, Use a small piece of Garment Leather, wrap it round the Threads twice and vigorously rub it from end to end (friction melts the Wax into the Thread). Take the two ends of the thread and scrape a taper on them with the back of a Knife. Then there should be enough wax in the tips to form a taper between your Fingers. Use this taper to thread into you Needle Eye and pull the Thread through about 1 1/4" further than the length of the Needle. Then push the Needle point through the middle of the Thread twice, then pull the excess thread back through the eye until you are at the point that you pierced the Thread. Pull the Tapered Tail over the eye and onto the Thread with your fingers. The Needle now is part of the Thread! Do the same to both ends of the Thread and you have a basic stitching thread. To stitch select an Awl to suit the thickness of both Needles and it should be a flat Diamond in profile. Put your first hole at about a 15 degree slope and center the Thread in the Leather, Make your next hole at te same angle, then as you start to withdraw the Awl place the back needle into the Hole and follow the Awl to the other side, As it comes out of the Hole you should have the second needle ready in your thumb and forefinger to grab the emerging Needle ( remember that the gives you a grip when the Needle is laid across the emerging Needle to help you pull it out). Pull the Needle and Thread out about 6 or 7 inches, then drop the emergent Needle to your middle Finger and Palm and insert the return Needle slightly into the emerged Thread. Use your left hand to pull steadily on the back of the emerged Thread and it will pull the second needle into the hole. Throw the back Thread up and over the needle as it appears and take hold of the Needle along with the back thread and pull it through. This will aid you to easily get the Thick Thread and Needle through the Hole and results in a neat Stitch if done well. Repeat the proceedure for each stitch. The idea of throwing the Back loop is to make the back slope of the Stitch look the same as the Front, NEAT! Hey it takes a bit of practise but you should get to the stage where you never put your Awl or Needle down and you become Automated. I had Ladies sewing Buggy Traces 9 per inch at 34 to 40 inches per hour every day and the Back was as neat as the front. And they sang while they did it. The faster they went the better the quality. I'll go into stitching in proper detail when I can get the time and Photo's to post. Please have a happy Day. Jim.

Troy I just used a spoke from a old racing wheel, and ground it roughly on the linisher, then on the oil stone, then on the Knife board. But keep them short or they bend a bit. Actually Motor Bike Spokes are also quite good for scratch Awls (Seat Awls) I put them in an electris Drill and spin grind them on a Linisher. Have a good one. jim.

Dear Tiffany as long as the Leather is reasonably firm Veg Bridle, 12 stitches per inch has always been used for the Best Strapping! As long as it's well done with a nice fine Awl and say a pair of 4 or 5 needles you wont get a better looking article. As far as strength goes I've never had best work (12 spi) returned for repair. Coarse stitching is not as firm so does on some occasions come loose or get over tensioned and cut the Hide surface, thus needing repair. Please keep at the 12 spi as is the ultimate of hand sewi. An old friend of mine had a 14spi Pricking Iron and used to say it was the ultimate in sewing. But when pressed to produce a quality show Bridle sewn 14 it was not attractive owing to all the Dead Sailors (over tensioned stitches) showing up like a sore thumb. The Leather could not take the strain so it gave way. I might add that the Hide used was best English. I hope this is of help to you. By the way we used to be able to buy special very fine Awl blades for 12 spi. I've haven't seen them for some 40 years now though so I use Hardened Bicyle Spokes and grind them to a nice flat Diamond. By the way excuse me referring to Stitches per inch instead of Threads per inch, I was brought up in the Trade this way. Kindest Regards. Jim.

The Stainless Steel Feet and Needle Plates are something that I have just started using on a 441, sure makes a difference on Damp Leather. They can be buffed to a very fine finish also if you want to alter them and hey they can be easily welded with a TIG or MIG without problem. I don't want to use any other now. hence wanting the Right side set for the 105. Please have a Happy day. Jim.

Crease any Veg tan by warming an edge Iron (Fixed or Screw) over a soft flame. test by touching the heated iron to a wet cloth, it should not sizzle. I personally hold the iron about 1" from my Cheek, if I can just feel the heat it is warm enough. Vigorously rub your crease into place, quickly. But don't overdo it as the crease mark will crackle. keep the iron moving smoothly. A god Crease will enhance your work immensely. But remember the old trade adage " Quiet but Elegant". You can crease all types of Veg this way but Stuffed Leathers will respond the best. To get back to the original Topic; Raised Work can be done quite efficiently with a 45K25 Singer using a Right hand Foot assembly. This will enable you to get up into the Raise or Beading easily. Don't use Plastic fillers though as a Cord filler will fill better and not offer resistance to the foot to cause scuffing. I used this set-up in all my best work. I actually have sent my Foot set (Foot,Short Feed Dog and Short Needle Plate) to China to see if I can get it copied in Stainless Steel ( stop Staining Leather), as many Friends want copies so they can do this type of work. Compound Feed Machines will do the job but tend to climb the raise a bit where the old style feed actually lays the raise nicely. I will try to take a Photo of my Creases to give you an idea of what you can use. Please have a Happy Day. Jim

Don't wet the Leather, warm the Crease. This will leave a permanent crease that is burnished. Jim saddler more later.

This is actually a technique used for a lot of jobs where the Back (underside) is not exposed, ie Footballs and Pouches. I recall that a lot of Show type Backsaddles used the same method in the old days. I noted that this left a very neat topstitch when sewing Black Patent Lether at say 11 or 12 per inch. Just a fraction of Pull-up to sink the thread, usualy using a S twist Leather point needle on a Pearson #A1 or a Singer 45K25. The Back was covered by the Pannel so who was to know. The stitching sure impressed the Judges as I used the same technique on my top Harness in the 70's. Won every time! As far as strength goes A New Zealand Company used a very heavy Braided Linen Bottom Thread and 8 cord Z twist as a top thread in The Union Lockstitch, to sew Competition Rugby Footballs. The Tension was screwed up very Tight, The Braid being stiff did not pull up at all. They lasted very well and were recognised as the strongest on the Market. Talk about Seam Stress, but they stood up to it. So don't write off the idea as there are times when you need it. By the way some of the Show Back Saddles I made in the mid 60's are still going fine, not a popped stitch to be seen.

Peter simple answer is, Start sewing from the same end each time. Face stitch your Pouch front, then stitch the Gusset to the back starting exactly at the same place on the back (make sure that the Gusset end is square). Use the same size stitch and tension on both surfaces. To start with you can mark a series of place marks on back and front, at say every inch. Put both to-gether to mark them identically. Then put your Gusset in place on the front and transfer those marks to one edge. Then tranfer those marks to the opposite edge of the gusset by folding the gusset down the centre. When you sew make sure that the marks match as you sew. If you do it right it can't twist. Jim Saddler