jimsaddler

A fine Tradesman who has gone to the Great Saddlers Bench in the Sky and will be remembered for his Great contribution our Trade. Gone but never to be forgotten. Rest Well Merve. Jim Saddler.

Hi The Pfaff 335 runs best with a vari Speed Servo Motor. Even the 400 Watt motors go well on them. Saves having a Reducer as most will run from 600 revs and up. use a as small a pulley as you can on the motor and you will not have problems with control. 335's are good machines for Handbags and the like. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Good one Ray. Now I've got a bit of reading to do. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

1 Teaspoon of Oxalic Crystals to 1 pint of warm water is the correct mix. Let it cool before using though, or use a small amount of hot water to dissolve, then add cold. The thing to watch is Bleaching. To avoid this Wash the dirty Leather evenly using Cotton Cloth soaked in the mixture. Let it soak for a short while to dissolve the dirt then wash with a diluted Soapy Water. I prefer Glycerine Saddle Soap wiped on the Cloth I used to put the Acid mix on with, then soaked with tepid Water. Let it dry and you should have an even finish on the Leather as the Saddle Soap replaces the Oils taken out by the Acid. I always do the whole area as I've found that to concentrate just on spots will leave the finish blotched and it becomes more noticeable as the Leather ages. Oxalic is a wonderful friend when you are careful, but a Bad enemy if used too much. It will send Embossing (Dry) Leather Pink if you use it without washing it out when it finishes cleaning. I hope this of help. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Kimberly The Adler 105 and the Singer 45K 25 are Cylinder Arm Machines with a Bottom Feed with similar features. Used for generations in the Hand Bag and Saddlery Trades. Now there are a number of Machines that have superceded them by having Compound Feeds or Walking Foot systems, that make control of the work easier. A Cylinder Arm is a great advantage for making Handbags, as you can get around corners easier. You can pick up a 45K for arround A$1.000. with the 105 being a bit dearer. Funny thing is that the Clones are available new for just above that price New. A Compound Feed Cylinder Arm will be arround the A$ 1.800 to 3.000. New. In NZ you should still have a few Shoe trade Machines kicking around SH also. If you find any, ask for opinions here and there are plenty who will advise you. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Nylon thread can be cantnkerous and Kink as you say, causing problems. Try this fix. get a piece of Belly leather about 2ft x 1" and punch #21 or #2 holes in it every three inches. Move your spool of thread away from the machine to a shelf or bench a few feet away and then thread your thread under and over through every second hole(I forgot secure one end of the strap to the self or Bench first) and then onto your machine as normal. This strap should take the kinks out but you may have to experiment with which holes work best. There were a few batches of Nylon sold cheap here in Australia (US origin) because of this and this is how I made them usable. the thread should come out of the last hole without Kinks. I hope this helps. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi These are easy to make for your self. I used a piece of 1 1/4" Spring steel to make my nice wavy one for rein Hand Parts. Then welded a piece of 1/2" square Steel on for a handle. I've used it for some 30 years and it is still better than the Old ones I had. Just use Chin Saw files for round teeth and Saw Setters Files for square. That is how they were made originally. Start by marking the gaps with a hacksaw, then enlarging them to become cutting edges. Spring steel didn't need tempering and was workable with the Files. you can us Tool steel but it requires annealing then Tempering again after you work it. On end off a Car Sprind will do also. Kind Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Ray send me a PM with your address and I'll probably be able to find one for you as I've got all sizes. I'm not sure about the Stitch marker, how many Stitches per inch do you want. I've probably got a common wheel that will do the Job. One of the principles of Leather work is simplicity. Things appear very complicated but the simplest method Always turns out to be the best. Have you measured how many SPI are used on the old Scabbards? I allways found that the visible sewing was done 10 or 12 SPI but the Hidden stitching was done coarse at 6 SPI. Backing Awls (Curved Awls) are not used for fine sewing very often. I hope this will be of assistance to you. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi UKRay I've stayed back from this one and watched for quite a while. Let me clarify what I meant by Ladies Stick on Sole Leather as that it the Leather used for Scabbards. It is very dense to start with and dry. Ladies Shoes required a light Sole to be elegant and were Stuck on instead with Leather Cement of Riveted. This Leather was usually Oak Tanned Butts of light substance, quite rigid and very little stretch. The method of Tempering was to Hammer the Soaked and mellowed Sole to shape and then Bone it to get a very elegant Finish. It is what you are looking for without all the Waxes, Resins etc added. Rough out will increase the Rigidity also. To get the Hide ready for the Scabbard, cut the size required plus an allowance for trimming and working and do a soak and Mellow it over night, wrapped in Hessian and Plastic. Bend the Piece to allow for the Spine and Hammer it firmly to shape of the Sword. Now you either Wax (Beeswax) or grease (Vaseline) the Sword and use it as the Mould. Now it is a case of Hammering and Boning it to shape on both sides evenly. A bean Bag (weighted with heavy weights) is used to keep the form while it dries When nearly dry, take it out and Bone it again to get the required finnish. Now is the time to Stitch it etc. Please remember that these were produced in quantities in their time so techniques varied, but the process outlined above is followed basically with variations on all that I have seen. Please feel free to contact me for further info if needed. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Her's a link to Cowboysew. <www.cowboysew.com/product9.htm> They have a Roller guide that will do the job and sounds like the one yu are talking about. Ryan Neel sells them. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Al The 133K3 class are more suited to canvas work than the 45K class. They are run at speeds of 1.200 stitches per minute against the 45K's at 600 SPM, also the lift is not as good. I still run a 45K style Machine (Cowboy 105) on an old Singer Treadle (Peddles backwards) from the 1890's for my fancy Stitching on Harness. It's unbeatable and they are very reasonably priced to-day. There were Families in England that were 45K25 operators for generations. That says something for the versatility of this grand old Machine. I met a young Lady some years ago who's Family was in this category. Great Grandmother down to Great Grandchildren were all 45K contractors and made from Wallets to Fancy Purses, Motor Bike Bags, Instrument Cases, Boots, Saddlery, Belts, Leather Wear and so many other products it would take all day to list them. She worked for me for 2 weeks of her Holiday's teaching several employees Head Collar sewing. The result was amazing, it humbled me as I thought that I was good till then. I wonder if anyone in the Forum knows any of these Highly Skilled Crafts Women who can give us some tips in using the 45Ks? By the way Al I've got a nice Pearson A1 Head now with original Decal, in near working condition. One small part missing that is easily remade. It's Black. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi All Here's my bit to chew on. Don't adulterate Beeswax for edge finishing unless it's with a little Canubra Wax (Hard). Parafin tends to crack. good old Beeswax is a natural waterproof preservative. The main thing to remember is. Elbow Grease should be added in copious quantities if hand rubbing with a coarse canvas, Denim or Hessian Clot. Preparing your Wax. I do this regularly every 5 or 6 years. Wax comes from Beekeepers complete with all the dead Bees and bits of Honey Comb. I melt what I need over Boiling Water, usually about 2 or 3 pounds in an old Saucepan. I then pour it into small empty Tuna Cans for use for Edging or mix it with Resin and a small amount of oil for making Thread Wax for making Wax Ends. By pouring the wax into cold water and pulling it out carefully to pull as it cools until all the water has gone, then shaping it into lumps the size of Bantams eggs. This type of wax is of a yellowish Colour and is for normal work. The tins are used for Hot Waxing edges or the Wax can be released from the tin by putting it in an inch of hot Water for a minute and upending the tin when the wax starts to melt. Then use the Block to rub on the edges before burnishing. Or for very clean Wax melt it in a big pot of Boiling Water then take the pot off the stove and let it cool. You're left with very clean Wax on the top of the Water and debris. As it cools you can ladel off clean wax into Moulds to cool. This wax is whiter in Colour and excellent for Leather and Furniture Polish also if mixed with Artists Wood Turpentine. I hope this is of some use. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Drover You need an edge guide to sew up to. Are you an Aussie? If so give me a call and I'll walk you through whats needed. For the speed, put an 1 1/4" Pulley on the Motor and run the drive Belt a slightly loose so it doesn't jump away to start. or you can buy a Servo Vari Speed Motor that will run from 600 revs and upwards. Don't buy less than 500 watts / 3/4 HP though, as smaller will burn out. Make sure you have a LR point needle also for Leather work. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi 56 yes you got wrong Awl and wrong advice. That awl Blade is for soft Bridle sewing. But that said as I've mentioned before goof stitching consists of Practice, Practice and more practice. You must have the right Blade for the job and start with light Jobs first and work your way up to heavier work. you know the shape of the blade now so make one for yourself out of any good piece of Steel but make a bit stouter 4mm ( good Motor Bike Spoke will be good) for sewing 7/8" and aprox 1 3/4" should protrude from the Handle. Temper is not the important part. Just don't burn the steel when grinding. Trial and error is the best way. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Mike to get an effective dry you must salt the Pizzle to draw the Blood out of it. Also the Tissue mus be scraped off entirely as it drys as it will dry and pull the whole thing hap-hazardly as it can be seen from your picture. The wire core is to maintain a backbone for good shape. Old Bulls are the best if prepared properly, young dry away to nearly nothing (inexperience I suppose). The Twist is done early in the process, 2 or 3 wires are used for best effect. To scrape the Tissue away a piece of broken Glass is very good. THE TISSUE MUST BE REMOVED AS IS DONE IN ANY LEATHER OR RAWHIDE PREPARATION! I hope this helps, I'll try to remember to get a few Pizzles after my big Fishing Trip and do them to jog my Memory as its now 30 years since I last produced them. Kindest regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Guys The Leather you are after is Ladies light Stick on Sole. I haven't used it for years now but did quite a few Scabbards 30 to 40 years ago. I know that every Shoe Repairer used it. It was reasonably easy to soak, Mellow, Hammer to Shape, sew, Dry, Polish, then coat with Lacquer (thin to start for penetration, getting thicker ) like French Polishing. The Lacquer was made from a type of Resin that dried Hard and waterproof. I got the directions from an old Curator at the Australian Museum in Sydney. He had Books on the process from the 1.700's. Probably the Museum still has the Books. This Leather was not Staked and by using 2.8mm substance and Hammering and Boning it reduced to a fraction over 2mm when finished and very firm. The Rawhide Core Leather doesn't work very easily and is hard to sew effectively. I hope this helps. Italy still make such a Leather. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Al It's not worth bothering to do it as you can buy a clone that has reverse for what it would cost to convert it. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Kevin You are totally right, in most cases. The shorter the Awl Blade the more control for normal stitching. For Bridle work 1 1/4" protruding from the Haft is adequate as it gives enough for the point to lead the hole straight then the body of the Awl to enlarge the hole sufficiently for good sewing. When sewing Heavy rough work though Long is Good as it acts as a Crowbar. A point with Awls! Your Awl is only what you make it! I've seen beautiful Awl Blades in the hands of Bumblers make terrible Stitches. Also I've seen Awls made of soft nails in the hands of Good Hand Sewers makes absolute masterpieces. "It's in the Hands not the Awl Blade". I've said it before only Practice, Practice and more Practice. Make your own Awl Blades from any good Steel Wire. They don't have to be a full Diamond for their length, the first section that makes the cut is the important part. Say 1/2" then a polished oval shape will do the job perfectly. With the polish being important. I hope this helps. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Kevin You are totally right, in most cases. The shorter the Awl Blade the more control for normal stitching. For Bridle work 1 1/4" protruding from the Haft is adequate as it gives enough for the point to lead the hole straight then the body of the Awl to enlarge the hole sufficiently for good sewing.

Hi John the Alum tightens the outer Fibres and actually Tans them. I also have steeped Pizzles in the Tan Barrel for a few weeks and then stretched and Dried them the same way They turned out quite well also. Sorry I cant find your picture I'd love to see it. In the late 50's I was lucky enough to work in the Hide House in the Meat Works, Tenterfield Nth NSW. The Boss of the Hide preparation (Old Bob) knew all about Preparation of Pizzles, Tails, etc for Whip Handles and that was my intro to the Art. Bob always had a few on the go for Ringa's who wanted them I recall that he preferred older Bulls as they were thicker and so had more Flesh to work with. ( Ladies please don't take offence). He also told me that therewas an old Whippy who actually Smoked Pizzles in his Chimney as he stretched them. Unfortunately I never saw the end result, but was told they were the best as they were waterproof when finished. My Tan Barrel used to be used for Cow Tails, also for whip Handles. I simply used to soak the Skins from Cow Tails (pulled off in one piece without splitting) in Lime Barrle for 3 days or so till the Hair slipped of then washed them in a mixture of Chook Manure and Bran and Water then simply chuck them into the Tan Barrel (dried Wattle Bark or Iron Bark smashed to a pulp and very hot water poured over it in the Barrel) for a few weeks until the Tan soaked through the Hide. Then washed them in Soapy water and wrapped them in wheat Sacks to keep them Moist until I could fit them onto Cane Handles to dry. When nearly dry Neatsfoot or Dubbin was worked into them and rubbed with a rough Hessian or Canvas to polish a bit. To get the Knob on the end I'd drive 3 or 4 tingles into the end of the Handle and whip Tarred Twine arround to form a nice Knob. The wet Tail was stretched over this and onto the Handle as far as it would go. To clinch the Tail on the Knob end, Twine was bound very tightly close up to the Knob end. When dry this was cut of and the Knob end remained closed. Some Tails were long enough to cover the whole Whip Handle cane, some were not the long ones were simply strtched full length and also bound tightly and cut off when dry. the shorter ones were pulled as far as they could reach and bound firmly till dry and shaved off neatly then a simple ring knot plaited over to make it neat. Sorry I've rambled on a bit, I hope this will help. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi JL Lets start with the Awls, get a bit of 180 grit Wet and Dry Emery cloth and glue it onto a flat piece of wood say 10inches by 2 inches. I assume you bought Diamond Harness Awl Blades. sharpen each side of the Diamond equally. The get some Baby Powder on a piece of soft scrap Leather and polish the sharpened Blade by rubbing it in the Powder inside the folded scrap (watch the Fingers though). Then go for the Sewing again. The only difference between a good Awl and a bad one is one is Sharp the other Blunt. Clamps are easily made from a couple of flat Boards say 3" x 3/4" x 14 or so inches long to suit your height. Sharpen them on one side and duplicate the Tandy in general but it will be stronger. The Machines I will not go into, but suffice it to say Cheap is usually a Head Ache. Learn to Hand Stitch first and watch this Forum to learn more about Sewing Machines. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Can I offer a bit of advice here please. The 105, 45K25 type Machines with their bottom Feed Dog, have been the life blood of the Leather Industry for arround 100 years. So many Masterpieces have been created with them. The Roller Foot Bob mentions is a norm for them to ease the materials through and I highly recommend them. That aside, I can't understand why there are not more LW members using them now as they are so reasonable in price and can do such a range of Stitching. All you need to do is learn to use them to best effect. Rule no1 use your hands to help the Leather through and you will not get Cuts underneath. One hand at the Back and one hand feeding from the front. You will develop a tension automatically over time and Sewing will become a JOY with them. I still use a 105 for my Best work as the ease it turns makes for very neat Sewing. The Needle always goes where you want it. Marks on the back are easily burnished off with a Deer Horn or Lignum Rubber. Buff any sharp spots off the Teeth of the Feed Dog and go for it. DON'T WIND BOBBINS WITH THE FOOT DOWN!! as this will score the foot and create sharp edges on the Feed Dog! Which is the most common cause of Cuts and the Back. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi All Plating is achieved by just that the Vegtan Leather is placed on a base and a "Plattern which can be plain or have a Print on it is pressed onto the Hide with a roller to level the grain or imprint a pattern of say Pigskin into it. If done too heavily it will feel like sole Leather. Good bridle is mid Plated to firm the top Grain. Hope this helps. kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Bit of quiet advice Lot of hype going on to steer towards the Cobra. Try them all! Including Ferdco, Cowboy , Artisan. They are all the same machine virtually except for experience. The low prices as a result of the Price War are unsustainable and there will be casualties and it would appear from the Hype that there is a lot of drumming up going on. My advice is when times are tight the Belt is pulled in so that you can survive on less. Those that fail are those that resort to Hype and claim they have a better Mouse Trap. A Saddlers machine is just that, a Saddlers Machine that sews through Heavy and light Leather with ease and has good clearance under the Arm to accommodate the Job, 16.5 inches is ideal. Smaller will crunch up your Skirts, Bigger is too big. All four have such a Machine, so it is up to you to talk to each one and decide. I'd go for the Biggest Flywheel for better Torque and control and Stainless Steel Feet and Needle Plates to avoid Metal Stains on Damp Leather. Ask about a variable speed Servo Motor and big Speed reducer, so you can crawl ( about 1 or 2 stitches per second) before you walk (150 Stitches per minute) and start to Run (3-400 per min). Reverse is a bonus for back tacking. 3 or 4 different Needle Plates (preferably Stainless). A Roller stitch guide. Also a Flat Bed attachment to increase the scope of the Machine to make Saddle Pads and Blankets. Ask the seller if he has any Saddle Trade qualification. Some have! This is a must. Also send some proper Samples to be sewn if you can't get to see the Machine. Now I hope this is of some benefit to you. Go for it and get the best Deal you can. Yes I sell a Saddlers Machine or two down under and they are the Market Leaders down here. I'm not trying to sell you one though. I am trying to let sanity reign on LW Forum, as it is an advice Forum not a Sales Pitch. There are some very good Sewing Machines available now and that is the way it should stay. No one deserves the biggest piece of the Cake at the expense of the others. Just because he makes the most noise. Fair competition creates Fair development and we have certainly seen this happen in the past 10 years in Saddle Stitching Machines. But lately it has become a real Battle with Mud slinging and all. So go for it while the prices are so low, There are some who will still help you if there are casualties of this Battle. They are the Quiet ones!! Best of luck with your search. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Todd I actually used Resin straight from the Tree to experiment back in the 60's. Pine resin Wax mix turned out Crumbly. Gumtree Resin Mix was good but too sticky to use (Spiderman is a good description). White Lead made beaut White Wax for white Thread, BUT then came the fact that the Lead gets into your system. So I stopped that in the 70's. So back to the precessed Resin, Blond being prefferred. By the way a bit of Castor oil in the mix will help deter Mice. For Mike Have you tried a desert Spoon of Friars Balsam and a bit of Raw Linseed Oil in your Wax. I heard of a Shoemaker who was allergic (Had dermatitus) to Resin using it with no reaction. Don't know where you would get it nowadays. Please have a Happy Day. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.