jimsaddler

Hi When you adjust the roller it should be ever so slightly in back of dead top centre. practise will teach you as it depends on your pull as to how far from centre. When you pull your Strap through, hold the strap down with your left Hand at the back of the Roller.I place my thumb on the Blade and 4 Fingers on the Strap. This is to stop your Fingers getting caught and cut. By putting pressure on the strap it then follows the contour of the Roller and Feeds evenly through the Blade. Another cause could be if the Splitter you have is able to Skive Turnbacks. Does it have a Handle to move the Blade back & forth? If so make sure that the Locking Screw is set to the depth you want to Skive to. Sorry I'm not familiar with Tandy's Splitters so I'm guessing about the Handle. Also remember that it is better to reduce your Strap in several stages if it has hard and soft spots. This helps to eliminate gouges like I see in the Pictures. Please have a Happy day. Jim.

Hi Barra I'm so glad that you posted this article. It has been the basis of my work all my life and nothing looks better than a Set of Sulky Harness that all of the Strapping is Raised. Can I please offer a couple of comments to go with yours that may be of interest. I allways used a Channel Board made of Ebony it was 4.5" X 4.5" X 22" long. There were all size Channels from 1/4" to1 5/8" spaced arround the Block. It was made in the late 1800's. I still have my old Boot Hammer that I used for the narrow Channels to hammer the dampened Harness or Bridle Leather used for Raising to shape. For the larger Raisings I used Rubbing Stickes or my Hammer Handle to set the shape. For fillers I allways used Greased (with Lyddys Saddle Soap) Scraps of reasonably firm Bridle Belly Skived to a Dome to fitt the Raising to within the row of Stitching on the Strap. Best Raising was sewn 2 rows 10 SPI Country Show or 3Phase was 1 row 8spi. Some of my contempories used Cotton Webbing os Strands of Thread to fill also. When setting up Straps the Points should be skived slightly for aprox the width of the strap from the tip to allow the Point to be easily threaded into loops and also to stop points from turning up from the pressure of the linning. Linning should be more flexible that the top and usually from Girth Leather 2-2.6 mm. Another way Ive used is to form the Raising in my Osborne Strap Crease (left side set) but don't go quite to the tip wind the Strap back and I have a Matching Hand Crease to finish the Tip with so as to continue the creasing arround the Tip. It is not as good, but is quicker for Production work. Actually this brings up another Post on the "45K clone" by China. All of my Raised work was sewn on a 45K25 with the Single Feed dog, Plate and Foot. It's illustrated on the PDF from Singer, the Link is in the Post. Page13 items; 85531,85532,85533. This allowed me to have a clean Raise. It has a more accurate stitch than the Walking Foot or Compound Feed Machines (I still use a clone Cowboy / Master 105 for decorative work like Raised Work and Grape stitching), They do the best job I've found, especially if you can get hold of the right Feet and Feed Dogs etc. They were the Backbone of the Leather Trades. I'd better sign off now as I've just noticed how much I've written. By the way a Block can easily be made with a Router. Kindest Regards to you Barra. Jim. Regarding Leather weights. I, like you can't get a handle on ounces. I was taught in Irons, then MMs and that is as far as my Brain would handle. So I just guess at the weights contributer talk of. My ranges are Seat 1.8-2mm Seat.. 2-2.6 Girth.. 2.6-3.2mm Light Bridle.. 3.2-3.8mm mid Bridle..3.8-4.4 Hvy Bridle.. Mid Harness 4.4 -5.4mm.. 5.4-6.4mm Hvy Harness.. Heavier are classed as Trace and Single Trace, but these are getting harder to get nowadays.

Art, I Sell the Master 441 with a few improvements like a proper Big Saddlers Fly Wheel, Stainless Steel sets of Feet and easy to use Power Saver Motors ( a big saving nowadays) with a Saddlers & Harness makers Knowledge of using machines for nearly 50 years, thrown in for good measure. Not anything special, just a well made Chinese Machine at a reasonable price that Customers can afford. Funny part is that My supplier in China listens to what I say does it and is proud of the Products Quality as a result. They sew our of the Box and don't break Needles, don't need much support as there aren't any problems with them. But the support is there anyway if required. When I started selling them a few years ago here in Australia there were similar Machines selling for around $6.000. to $12.000. without Accessories. I sell them for around half that complete with all accessories and am happy to do so. Funny how others dropped their prices then. They'd been charging big Money to us in the Trades for years. Saddlers & Harness Makers here have been struggling for years to make ends meet. Let alone afford to pay the High prices for new Machines. So we went to overpriced Second Hand Machines. NOW, Hey Presto! suddenly They can buy a New State of the Art Machine, complete with all accessories and Servo Motor for the price they'd been paying for used relics. Now I say this In the U.S. you have the same deal with the Machines sold as Cowboy or Neels. No Hype, the improvements have been done on the recommendation of Highly Experienced Tradesmen including me, who know their Jobs. Also sold at down to Earth Prices. Usually a bit below others but giving a better package also. Small is best and my workshop is a small operation run by A Tradesman Saddler & Harness Maker who puts the Trade first. So I've just broken a rule, I pushed a good product where usualy Trade Ethics tell me to Shut-up. This Forum is a good place to share Knowledge, not to sell Machines. I have a huge load of Knowledge to Share about the Leather trades and I expect to log on and enjoy the Posts and give help where I can. Also have a laugh at some of the obvious mistakes being offered as advice along with the very good advice of some very dedicated Craftsmen and Women. Please don't take offence at my comment as My Definition of a Trades person is "A person who has learned by making all the mistakes and how to avoid them" So please carry on Learning. Just one tip for the Hand Stitchers though. If you want to do good stitching throw away all of the Gloves and gee Gaws. Use the skin God gave you. If the needle is too tight you're using the wrong Needles. Hands toughen up quickly. Good stitching is a balance of, the right Awl, Needles and thread, for the Job. Please feel free to ask about any aspect of the Down under Leather Trades and I'll try to answer it. Not carving though as I appreciate Good Leather and don't like to cover it up. Now lets all have a Happy Day. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Whoa Back young Fella There are a few of us out here who have actually as good as if not better service on the machines we sell, BUT. We don't brag about it! I actually am a Saddler & Harness Maker of long Standing who nowa-days sells a few Machines to the Trade and those that want them. But I would not use a Forum to further my Sales unless requested to as there is an Ethic that binds us of Mature years to refrain. Occasionally I have had a burst when I see too much about some of the comments knocking other Machines. So here's my comment. Keep commercialism out of the Forum as there's a few better machines out there with actually better knowledge to back them up. Like the ones I sell, Developed by Saddlers for Saddlers and that's ensured that the Bugs I here about on this forum have allready been knocked out of them. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Hey Patrick if the Cast Iron Stand is the one that Pedals backwards (not Treadles) don't put a Motor on it. Use it as it is the best ever made for Leatherwork. I still use mine for 45K work as it is strong and accurate as well as giving total control over your work. I've been using them like this for 45 years. I'ts like have a servo Motor as your Feet control the position that you stop the needle. Yes the Stand will come apart, it takes a bit to do so and reassemble. I once took the Wooden Benchtop off and manhandled the base down steps from the 3rd floor of an old Building on a hand Trolley, heavy but achieveable. I hope this may of help to you. Kindest regads. Jim.

Luke that is the beauty of them, they run quiet, no Noise. I sujest you contact Ryan Neel ( www.neelsaddlery.com) and ask him about supplyng a Motor as I've had a very good run out of the same Motors that he sells. The vari Speed version is so simple to set up or there is the 2 speed model. Hey they use less than 1/3rd the power owing to no wasting power while waiting. Don't Jump either.A learners Dream and a Proffesionals Tool. I just wish I'd had them 40 years ago. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Try a Servo Motor (Dial Speed) with a speed reducer. That will eliminate that thumping take-off and allow you to maintain Torque even at low speeds. Clutch Motors are out of date now for 2 reasons, Power wastage (running all the time) & hard to control at low speeds. Servo's dont use power when not sewing & are controlable at all speeds. Als you can vari the top speed so easily. I've got rid of all my Clutch Motors. Any novice can use the Servo easily. Kindest Regards. Jim.

No need to shim the plate. The Machine has had the feet lifted to make it appear to sew heavier Leather than it was made for, just drop the feet to where they should be and it should sew Canvas OK. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Hey Shorts you answered your own Question. Use the Egg eyed Harness Needles as they are allready dulled (blunt round point) so as to avoid cutting the thread. The small egg Eye is stronger and as long as you use the right sized Diamond Awl Blade will not break easily. You should not have to enlarge the Awl hole to accomodate the needles, just use a lot of practice and you'll get it. No Pliers needed if the size is right. Please enjy the frustration as the only way to get beyond Learning is to make plenty of mistakes. That is how Tradesmens (and Women) become Masters. Kindest Regards. Jim.

hey Mark This needle is what I was told is called a "Welting needle" A packet turned up in a shipment of No 1 Egg eyd Harness Needles many years ago. Used by upholsterers to lace the Leather welts on before machining the seam they were handy for sewing Sheep Skin and Furs, BUT NO GOOD for 2 needle sewing. As they will pierce the opposing thread in the process. If you want some, just take a #0 or #1 egg eyed harness needle and sharpen. This needle appers to be no longer available as it fell out of demand when I was a boy. Hence they were slipped into shipments to get rid of them.. Please have a Happy Day. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Hi Hilly Thankyou so much for your kind comments. Unfortunately I haven't had to buy any for years as I collected so many over the years I'm well stocked. Plus I make my own out of old blades that are too big. But if you can E-mail me a postal address I'll send you a special Blade for #12 sewing that is older than me to try. A mate gave me these a while ago and I have a spare. A good tip is to watch out for old Hardware stores closing down, as amongst the old stock sometimes there are old Awl Blades. I have a lot of these from sources like this. Some are huge, but the Steel is very good so I slowly grind them down to suit what want. As I've mentioned before Good Bicycle Spokes also make good fine Awls when ground to a flat diamond. Always make the diamond profile flat to give a neat slope to your row of stitches. By the way I'm trying to get a short movie of Hand Sewing and Thread making made (Slowly) for those that are interested. I'll try to get it posted on my new Website when it's up and running. Kindest Regards. Jim.

I've watched quite a few comments about the different needles used for sewing Leather, so the following might be of assistance as it is well and truely tested by experience. " If sewing Leather of any substance over 2 mm, only use Egg Eyed Harness Needles and a good Harness Awl". They have been developed over many centuries for this purpose. Breakages should be minimul as you should not have too much strain on the Eye. It boils down to having the right size needle for the Thread. If the needle is too small the lump at the eye will cause the eye to break when you try to force it through the hole. The same goes for the Awl Blade, it should match the Needles. Pliers should not be needed, the same goes for finger guards or Gloves. Use the right tools for the Job! Sore fingers are only tempory, start out steady and get your Hands toughened up over a week or so. They will! Piddle on them to speed things up. I've seen many different types of Needles sold as Leather Needle, most have a long eye. There s no way that they should be labeled as Suitable for sewing Leather. Glorified Dressmakers Needles is all they are. Glovers Needles are just that and should be used for light self piercing jobs. They are used singly for sewing and never go through the same hole again with them or you will cut the thread. Harness Needles have a rounded point for this reason, so as to avoid piercing the thread in the Hole. The Awl Blade should be just big enough to allow the threaded Needles to be pased through reasonably smoothly, but not too big. Please have a Happy Day. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Hey Esantro Back the tension off on both. then let a bit off the Bobbin. Then adjust both top tensions about 2 turns in from the top of the post. Fiddle with the balance between the Roller tension and the Bobbin to get the stitch right. Also check that the Roller has no rust or dirt gripping he Felt. as this is the most common cause of having to screw the tensions up tight. 441 's are good as long as you don't screw them up too much. Please have a Happy Day. Jim.

Dear Scott The problem you are having is when the thread unravels as you sew and tries to twist on each strand, hey presto a Birds Nest. The unraveling is usually caused by using Lefthand, Reverse (Z) twist thread when hand sewig. It is best to use a Righthand twist (S) . The unraveling is caused by the action of Stitching causing the thread to undo as the stitching proceeds. S is the natural Right hand twist to use as it actually tightens up as you stitch. The other 2 options are to make your threads on the Knee with Linen Hemp and wax them or use Waxed Braided Thread. I have been biting my Tongue for quite a while when I see various contributions recomending ready made threads. There has been no mention of Twist, which is the key to very good stitching that looks even, without some patches looking unraveled. A lot of years ago I was asked to advise a Football Facory as to why the Stitchers were having problems with their hand made threads coming unravelled. After a lot of looking at the Stitchers working I decided that there was no problem there. So I looked to the Man who made the Threads. Suddenly it was very clear what the problem was. He was left handed and was making on his left. I made 6 threads on my right and gave them to the Stitchers to try. Very quickly I was a Hero as the problem ceased. Thread maker was promoted to Clicker and a Right Handed Lady was selected to make the Threads. Problem solved! Also the Tapers were much better for threading needles as the natural lay of the hemp allows for it to be unravelled with the right hand. I have used Polished Linen (Hayes Sea Patrick Gold) in Z twist for sewing very fine bridles many years ago, but each splice used a new length of thread was used. Not practical! I hope this of use to you. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Whew!! I didn't realise what I'd started. All that I can add is.. I have found the Cowboy 441 and its stable mates to handle All I can ask of it. It's the one Machine a Saddler or Harness Maker needs in his Shop. Because Bill listens to his advisers and keeps improvements. Please have a Happy Week or two. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Dear Art quick answer. Ryan is not using a Highlead, it's a 441, which is a bit different to the Highlead. Besides its an old photo. Bill is right they do have the capacity to do Machines. That aside there have been many changes made since I came on board as I have the practical experience of a great many years in the Trade using Machines and Teaching Employees to use them. So I say this "Cowboy has listened, converted the sujestions into reality and delivered". Plus the price of the changes has not affected the price. So Who's the winner? The Customer! I don't care if they are made in Timbuktoo. I do care that someone has started to listen to the Trade and taken notice. In more than 40 years I was always told "thats the way they are, take it or leave it. I've finnaly got Machines that do what I want them to do. Singer, Adler, Seiko and many others never listened as we Saddlers were not important enough. Art I really appreciate your posts. Please look outside the Square. Kindest Regards. Jim Beaton Master Saddler & Harness Maker. (45 years at the Bench) Now Kat, back to the core of the post "Does anyone know anything about the Cowboy sewing machines? I need a light-medium weight leather sewing machine that will handle 3 to 4 layers of 2.5 to 3.0 wt garment leather and possibly Latigo. I make purses and cases as well as vests, not saddles or belts. Thanks for any help Kat Frye" Hey Kat sorry for getting off the subject. Talk to Ryan Neel and tell him Jim said to give the right advice as to Choosing a sewing Machine to sew your Handbags properly. You will find that Cowboy are damm good Machines. Please have a very Happy day. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Dear Okiwen Point taken! This is my aim, To supply "the best Machine and accessories for the Leather Trade at the Best Price". Cowboy are behind me all the way. I also know that Ryan Neel has the same aim. I'm very surprised that the Feet didn't fit? I'll pass the comment on to Cowboy and they WILL make sure that it is rectified ASAP. Feedback is what has helped me to advise properly. The centre foot not clamping down properly is a mystery to me as the fit is usually very close and a minimum tension needed to clamp it. Your comment about the majority being being catered for is enough, is right, as I percieved over 40 years ago. That is why I am with Cowboy all the way, they want comment. They are with me also because they love the feedback that I give them. This is why they are using Experienced Saddlers as Distributers. Take the large Flywheel. I used to operate a Pro 2000, a very good Machine. The Flywheel was too small to walk stitches through and not enough weight to give good Torque. Also there were a number of little things that were not quite right. That was what you get was a comment that was given, adapt. Hey when I was asked by Cowboy to sujest what needs improving and I said Big Flywheel. Within 6 weeks it was a reality. They won me. So ever since I have made a lot of sujestions including the Stainless Steel Accessories and all have been acted on, as will yours. We need this! So Crafts People! Send us any other comments, they will be appreciated and acted on. I'm not trying to cut others out of the Market, but I am trying to get improvements in what we use in our Craft at a reasonable price. So send those comments please. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Good one Barra, I hit my head when I fell off the chair. I agree it will do the job though as a Learning process. Kathy a full linning will be best, so remove the linning carefully and use it as a pattern for the new one. Be back later. Jim.

In Defence of Cowboy / Neels / Master (in Australia) Heavy Duty Industrial Sewing Machines. Hey These machines are GOOD! They are based on proven Machines (Juki 441) , but the price is lower. Is that all? Nope, They are developed by Experienced Saddlers like me advising the Team at Cowboy what needs improving, to make them Better Machines. I am one of those advisors. When I was asked to look at the Cowboy range I was told the "The aim of Cowboy is to supply only the Best Machines to the Leather, Saddlery and Harness Trades". My honest opinion is that they are doing it. Recently I did a Customer survey asking if anything was wrong with these Machines. The only complaint recieved was" They don't break Needles". I've used most of the various Trade Machines over my 45 years at the Bench including the Pro 2000 / Juki 441 and I based my advice to Cowboy on this. First thing I asked for was a decent 12inch Flywheel to aid low speed stitching and performance, Six weeks later it was a reality and has vastly improved the performance. Many minor improvements have been made to improve the performance which I won't go into here. But the underlying aim has allways been to achieve the near to perfect Saddlers Sewing Machine, with the best accessories to match. If they don't fit Artisan then something is wrong with Artisan, because I have fitted them on Highlead and the Pro 2000, easily, which are also based on the Juki 441. The Accessories are solid Stainless Steel which was my advice to them to use and the Price is cheaper because of the advice on how to make them. Actually the quality is superior also because of the process used. Now I say this Ferdco Pro 2000 is a damm good machine and I take my hat off to them for developing this machine as probably the best improvement to a Saddlers Shop since the Pearson no6 and the Singer 45 K 25. Weve just quietely taken a few steps further as Saddlers tend to do and lifted the affordability and usability of the Machines so that everyone can afford them now. I've watched all the comments putting Cowboy down, while biting my Tongue. So now lets be fair Artisan is a Good Machine, Cowboy is a Good Machine, Ferdco is a Good Machine. I know from Vast experience that the small problems of other brands have been tackled and solved by us advisors to Cowboy Sewing Machines. Also I know that if a Customer has a problem of any sort in using our Machines it will be solved by one of our Advisors who are available through out the World. By the way I have a wee touch of experience in all Fields of the Trade including, Master Saddler & Harness Maker, Footwear, Leathergoods, Canvas and Marine. Now please get on track you Guys & Gals, this is the first and last time I expect to have to defend Cowboy for doing such a good job in bringing First Class, affordable Trade quality Heavy Industrial Sewing Machines into the Market for all to use. So now I'll butt out and go back to enjoying the core of this Forum which I gather is not a Commercial one. My Field is Australian Saddles and Harness and you are welcome to pick my Brains anytime on this as I have and will share any Trade secrets you want and there is a wealth to share in the Grey stuff yet. But please don't use the Forum to sell one brand against the other, I know which is the best from Experience but I you have to ask me privately to get the answer. Please all have a Happy Day. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Kathy we Saddlers in Australia are proud of the Products that we make. Unfortunately there are copies of our products that are represented as "Aussie Stock Saddles" but fail miserably to achieve that status. That said the best use for them is to use them for a Teaching aid as they are cheap. So treat this project as a good learning lesson please. Between us we will try to get a good description of how to do a Counterline properly from the start to finish. I am pressed for time this weekend but during the next week I'll write up the steps for you (and others who want to learn) if that is okay with you. By the way we don't Flock a Stock Saddle, we "Stuff" the Saddle. Flock brings up visions of the dust associated with Flock and Kapok (not good on the Lungs). For Stuffing the traditional materials are , Doe Hair / Cow Hair for the frist Stuffing, Horse Hair / Cowtail, for the second Stuffing. The Doe (Cow) is Awled out and ponkied into the shape of the Horses Back to form a good bearing surface. It is then Ridden in for from 2 months to several years to Felt down. If the serge is in good condition, Horse Hair is then stuffed over the Doehair Base evenly (Hair Facing) which acts as a good Cushion and Heat Disapater, much like a good Saddle Blanket. If the Serge is not in good order then the Saddle has to be Counterlined. This entails taking the slack out of the old (Pure Wool) Serge and sewing a new serge lining on with allowance for the Doehair (which is added later). So I'll leave you to ponder what I'm talking about till I can get a bit of sparetime to do it properly. I'll have to rely on Barra or David to get some Photo's of the process if possible. Please have a Happy day. Jim.

Hey Kathy I'm glad it helped. Barra is right a Stock Saddle should be "Counterlined" and Stuffed with Horse Hair or good Teased Cawtail Hair, for spring! What sort of Flock is the Pannel stuffed with? From the colour of the Linning Material, I suspect it is an Asian copy. So it may be hard to get a good Counterline onto it, as the linning will be flimsy to stitch to. If so this will be a big job. Let me know and between a few of us we can try to advise. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Tiffany Tiger is a brand name that was on the market in the past. I'm not sure where it came from but it was cheap, Waxed Nylon. Unravel too easily for hand sewing. Okay for Machine sewing Light leathers. I got it from Hong Kong through a friend and didn't bother to buy more. Kindest regards. Jim.

Cathy Please excuse me buttig in on Barra & David They are right on track with advice. I thought it may be an idea to run through step by step on "dropping the front of a Pannel". 1. with a short bladed Knife cut the stitches that join the Pannel (linning section) to the actual Saddle Start on the near side and carefully ease the Pannel way from the Saddle while cutting the Stitches as you go. Continue right arround the Front till you have cut all of the stitches and the Pannel starts to drop away from the Saddle. Be careful up in the Gullet as this is usually held there by a few Nails or tacks as well as the stitches, this why you use a short Knife. 2. Use a Tack claw to lever out the Nails or Tacks in the Gullet, be gentle as you can crack the Tree easily. 3. Now you should be able to ease the front of the Pannel downwards and off the points of the Tree. 4. If all has gone well you should nw be able to bend the Pannel to the Back and support it as David says with a Stuffing Iron or a stick. 5. From your photo I can see there is a Channel liner, this will be easily lifted out of the way to get at your Girth Strap (Point). 6. remove the old Girth straps carefully with the same Knife. I usually cut one stitch at a time and pull it out from the Webb. 7. To replace the Straps you must be careful with your Thread choice Lately I have been using a very Heavy Poly Braid as a doubled stitch and #1 Needles. Or you can make a 6 cord Common Hemp Waxed end to use as a single Thread. 8. Make your Girth Strap out of Butt Leather (no Stretch). I am wary of Doubled Straps as the Stitching wears thus shortening the life of the Strap. Best ex-heavy Harness is the best. 9. Now for the most important part! to stitch the new Straps on use an Awl that will not make a long hole. My preference is a nealy Square profile that will not cut the Webb but push the Strands apart. 10. It is a good idea to put your stitch holes in the end of the Strap before you actually start stitching. The Saddle in the Photo does not appear to have along webb end to sew to. so put your stitch holes at 5 per inch. Hold them in your Clams or Stitch horse to do so. 11. It is an idea to Tack or Glue your strap in place. An old Trade guide is to place the point of the Strap under the Tree point on the other side of the Saddle then lay the stitch end on the Webb and that should give you the right angle of lay when finished. 12. Stitch Single Needle starting from the very tip of the strap with a double stitch to lock the stitch, then come from the back of the third hole to the front and back through the second hole. Before tightening loop the back (long) Stitch to create a knot, then tighten the stitch very firmly. Continue to stitch in this manner, ending and starting with a double stitch. I allways knot each stitch for safety and have never had a failure. 13. Assembly is the reverse proceedure, but stitch instead of cutting. Careful putting the nais back in put them in in different holes and slope each nail to the Gullet plate so it will have eneough meat to get a good hold. I have one little worry about the Saddle in the Photo, it may be of Asian origin. If so be extra careful of weak materials. Please have a Happy Day. Kindest regards. Jim.

Hey Hilly There is no better needle to sew Leather than the Egg Eyed harness Needle!! Anyone who says different is seriously misled. Other needles have points and they will catch the grain as they are used! Sizes go from #000 being the largest to #7 being the smallest. #000 are crowbars for sewing Ex Heavy harness. #7 are for very fine work. For a 4 cord waxed Linen (ready made Thread) you will need #2 or #3 so as to get the Thread through the Eye of the Needle. For a waxed end (Hand made) Linen thread you can use #4 or #5. depending on your skill at making the Thread and threading onto the Tapered end. I hope this helps you. Kindest Regards. Jim (Saddler)

Contact Neels Saddlery and buy a Stainless Steel Foot set as it will come up better when you polish off the nipple. Also it wont stain damp leather as a ground off Steel foot will. Kindest Regards. Jim.