jimsaddler

Hi Farmers Daughter. It may be of help for your Boarder to look up the Official site of the Saddle & Harness Makers Assoc of Australia inc. and ask some of the Aussie Saddle Makers listed there under the MEMBERS. They can advise properly as to the pitfalls of buying the wrong Aussie Stock Saddle. Some of the names are not representative of REAL Australian Stock Saddles, so please check first. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler. http://australiansaddlers.com.au/

Hi Lippy I actually have a tripod. But to jump up and set the camera each time is beyond me. I now have several offers of help to get Photo's and a Video made for posting. Just waiting for our normally Mild Winter to return to normal, as its too cold at present. Please keep pushing me. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler. By the way there is a shortcut if you can dig fast enough nearly straight down (it's bit warm though).

What a funny coincidence. T0-day i was showing a Couple how to improve their Hand Stitching. Using my fine Awls. They were amazed at the difference it made to have just the tip as the Blade to cut the Leather and make such neat tight stitching. Then I got your questions, so I'm well prepared. Firstly I really want to do some Photo's at least but a Video would be better. I'm a bit closer now as I am updating the Saddlers & Harness Makers Association of Australia page now and learning a lot about downloading from doing it. All I need now is a Camera person. For coarser Stitching a Diamond profile will do from say 9SPI and coarser and leave a good stitch. Even the Finer Stitching can be done with Diamond but it weakens the Stitch because of the extra width. Actually the Pricking Iron sets the surface for your stitch to lay in. I have ground my Irons finer and to a Steeple point for ease of use. So the marks are finer on the Leather than those of an altered Iron. The result is that when the round shaft of my Awls fits better. Then the Stitch pulls tight and neat into the impression of the Pricking Iron (Don't drive too deep as it is a guide). Always throw the back thread over the Needle to make a half Knot as it serves 2 purposes,1, it evens up the slope of the back stitch to match the slope of the front for neat finish,2, The knot acts to hold the stitch in place like a Screw, especially as the Wax of the thread sticks the thread to the Leather (this is why we use Resin in the Wax) over time. Good Sewing will hold even when the top of stitches wears off because of this. Remember the aim of good stitching is to be very neat so the Back stitch should always slope the same way as the front just as you state. Awl cuts /// on front Stitch is \\\ and a mirror image on the back. Regarding threads. I mourn the passing of good Patent Hemps here in Australia. We can only get #12 Shoe Thread which is too coarse #15 patent is the best, especially in Golden colour. Lately I am using .6mm Italian Poly Braided Thread in White. it is round in profile and sits neatly in the Stitch hole. the flat Braids look bigger than they should in the hole. Please remember that I am lost when machine thread sizes are quoted. My size recognition runs to 2,3,4,5,6 Cords and 6,8,10,12,18,20 for Machines.(Old sizes). 2 cord Waxed end for #12 spi, 3 cord for #10spi, 4 for 8spi, 5 & 6 for 6spi. Now I'm using this Braid it is .6mm 10 & 12 spi, .8mm 8 spi, 1.0mm 6spi. I bought it on special clearance for Au$20 and it is like Tiger thread. It will take about 20 years to see how it lasts. So far so good? The other way of stitching that I use sometimes is single needle, but not often. The same principal applies there also. Throw your back stitch! or sometimes I actually throw twice to form a surface knot. This is used for the like of Girth Strap anchoring so that if one stitch is cut it wont undo. So endeth the Sermon for to-day! Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler. Oh by the way some of the people who are learning from me are going to come when it warms up and do the filming for me. It's too cold at present as GLOBAL COOLING is affecting us badly here.

Hi Lippy you're right. I need a Camera Man or Woman. I've got the Video Camera, the ability, the workshop, the Tools, the Materials. BUT need someone to take the Video. I'll keep looking, or wait till my Family get interested enough. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler

Hi Bob Congratulations on the Web Site. It's good to see the good Machines online. I'm still working on mine, so it will give me a push to get it up and running. kindest Regards. Jim. Nice job on the site and good on you Wizz.

Sorry, just nip them out carefully. Cut the loop on top, then pull gently through to the back and hold the ends, then sew new stitches by hand and burn them all off at the back. Or nip them up very close with sharp nippers. At times I take it for granted too much that what I learned as a kid is know by all. With practice you can do an invisible repair to dropped stitches. In fact I knew of old Women who were specialists at invisible Repairing dropped stitches in big Factories. They were very good. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Sorry Bob actually I was referring to Clutch Motors, my mistake. I put 1 1/2" Pulleys on all my Motors so this reduces speeds considerably, especially when a reducer is used. Please have a Happy day. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Hand sew it with the same thread starting from the back and finishing at the back then burn the thread ends off. kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Well my latest shipment of Chinese Servo 550 watt Motors make no real noise at all. In fact they are as close to perfect as I could wish. Running from 300 revolutions to 3.600 max. They can be set at any max Speed in between and operate from 300 to the set speed. They run so quietly and efficiently I can't understand why anyone would use anything else. Especially when they have excellent torque at all revolutions. Sewing 7/8" of Harness at 300 revs is a snack. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Please excuse my butting in, but I couldn't help it. The poor fellow in the video has a bit to learn about stitching. First he doesn't throw his back loop to get the back of the stitch to slope the same as the front. This also speeds up the stitching as while you are throwing the loop the thread is pulling the needle through the Leather to make it easier to pick up. If this is done there is no sound reason to tap out the Stitches with a Hammer as they well be pulled into the Leather firmly and neatly. Good Hand Sewing is co-ordinated, Smooth and will out last Machine Stitching. Kindest Regards Jim Saddler.

Hi Thyri I'm a little out of date,but if you get Leather from Overseas the supplier should put a Statement running something like this on the paper work. I declare that; The Leathers contained in this shipment are new fully tanned ....type of Animal... and are free from all disease and contamination. Packed in new materials free from Contamination. Signed.. at........ dated............ It may have changed so it would be safer to check online first. then go for it carefully avoiding protected species. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler..

Hi Max Have you passed the tread through the Post with all the holes in it first? What I see in your Photo's is usually caused by Kinks in the Thread getting caught in the top Tension Disks. Hard laid threads usually do this. By threading through the holes several times it takes the Kinks out and stops the Stitches being pulled to the surface. Watch the Thread carefully when you pull some off the Cop and let it slacken, it will naturally twist into itself into a kink. This is what causes the problem. I hope this helps you. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

It uses a SM X 1000 needle, the same as the Singer 7.33. Hence the Heavy Capabilities with a 6 cord thread. The 32mm lift is beaut for Heavy Felts to Leather etc. Like 3/4" Saddle Felt to Double Skirts (Needs a 1. 1/4" lift at least) . For Footwear I can't advise except that it would go round Sandal sides easily like I used to do with a 7-31. Till the next delivery I can't comment further as I only comment on what I personally have achieved with any Machine in the Workshop. Let's say it takes a bit to impress me, the 7273BV impressed me as an honest Workhorse. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Best Webbing Sewer I ever used. Sewed 7/8" of Heavy Load Binder Web as a Snack. Then put 5 strips of Heavy Harness through easily. 3/4" of Sail Cloth and Shade Cloth. As good in reverse af forwards. I'm keeping one out of the next shipment for my Heavy Rough work, The one I was keeping was sold under pressure from a Customer as he Wanted it Badly. I found it as good and Better than a 7-33 because of the Reverse. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Most of the Machines mentioned are knock offs of the Singer 45K25 and the Adler 105. The job that you are showing was traditionally done on such a machine. The operators were called 45K operators and were very good in their field. Which included making School Satchels that lasted a lifetime. I'm like Art and say buy form a reputable Dealer and you won't regret it. The Ebay knock offs are usually from the low grade Chinese Makers made to price only. If a Machine is sold by one of those who appear regularly on LW. It's got to be able to stand up to the Critics or dissapear into the Junk Bin quickly. Hey I use one as my Fancy Stitching Machine for decorating Winker Eyes, Drops and Back Saddles. Also for Pouches and the like.It is mounted on an old Singer Pedal Stand for perfect control. So nowadays the Servo Motor and Speed Reducer achieves the same control. The 441's have Compound Feeds which are not as neat. (Now Guys don't flog me for saying that but it is the truth) for the High class visible Stitching I like to achieve. I hope this helps you. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Are you using one weight lighter in the Bobbin Thread? This makes for a neater, better pulled up, underside, especially if you use and LR Needle point as they will give a nice even slope to the stitch. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi bstomper I actually have an old Singer Pedal Stand that was built for the 45K25 and 7-class. The difference being that the bench has a cut out o the 45k25 Model. These Pedals run in reverse and give the best control for accurate Stitching. The Stand is from the 1890's, Big and Heavy. I change Machine heads arround on it as required,ie Cowboy 7105 (equivilent to 45K25) and 7441AE. Its a dream to use and so accurate. Regarding the Roller or Wheel foot, I change it when required with several other Feet eg: Double Toe, Right single (for Knee Pads) and a special Foot I had made for Canvas. The Roller foot is never a problem as any marks left by it can be rubed out with a Bone or Staghorn Slicker. I Hope this is a help to you. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Leatheroo Its not just a great Saddle Maker, Col was a MASTER SADDLER in his field and recognised here for his Great Skill. I've known him for more than 40 years and the greatest reccomendation I can give him is " I never saw a Product he made that could attract criticism from other Saddlers here (his Peers) only admiration. My first meeting with Col was at the Shepparton Rodeo early 70's. A Bronc Rider had trouble as the Cantle needed re-stitching before he could compete. So he came to me and asked me to do an urgent stitch Job on it. Well I started and became aware of a guy watching me Sewing. Well I quickly finished in time for the Event and the owner Said Thanks Mate I'll fix you up after the event. The watcher then piped up "he wont be back" but that was a damm good repair you did there. I'm Colin Hood and its good to meet you this way. That day I met a true Gentleman Saddler. We've swapped yarns and idea's a time or two since then and I count it a privilege to be able say he was my Friend and a Master Saddler. He passed on a lot of knowledge to Nicole and I am sure that she will use it wisely. Please enjoy working at the Big Bench In The Sky old friend. I also endorse Nicoles request for Yarns about Col when he was in the Sates as we want to record them for posterity. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi! can I make a comment re the Button Holes. For Garments (leather Jackets etc) a bit of light Garment Hide and a straight sewer are all thats required. Just place the scrap upside down on the Button hole site, then sew arround the profile of the required hole. then slit the hole carefully and fold the scrap into the slit and fold it out flat on the under side. Tap it to shape, then sew arround the face side neatly. Trim off the excess. Hey presto a neat, durable Button hole with a straight sewer. A bit of practice is needed to get it right. Saves buying a special Machine. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Sorry to put a damper on this Leather. But from experience a Non Slaughtered Beast usually hasn't been bled at death. This causes enzyme decay to set in quickly. Making the Hide "Dead Leather" from the Tanners point of view. In the 60's when Slaughtered Hides were bringing Au$7-12. a Dead hide brought 50cents if you could sell it. (US$1.00 was equivelent of 48cents Aust then). Good Bridle sides sold for Au$9.50-12.90. One Tanner actually used these cheap hides and tried to palm them off on the Saddlers by filling them with a a smelly component. I bought 14 sides at $4.50 per side! I still had most of them when Fire Burned my Shop 5 yrs later as the stuff was Junk as it had no strength was hard to cut or skive as the many cuts I recieved when trying to cut out or skive it. Good Tack was out of the Question. I made a few Tap washers and work Belts out of one side and lost Customers as it fell to pieces. The Tanner later gave me a credit to keep my trade and appologised, then told me it was what he had learned from his Indian Adviser as that was the only source of Hides he was used to using as it was illegal to Slaughter Cows in India, so the untouchable Caste picked the Sacred Cows when they died as a source of Leather (and whatever??) I don't think that anything has changed in recent years as a Dead Cow is a Dead Cow and decay sets in quickly if the Blood is not removed. Convictions or Motivation does not compensate for a Bad or inferior Product which DEAD Hides Produce. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Al I had the same winder that had been modified many years ago to wind for my A1. I was told it was for a Pearson no5. Indeed I saw the same winder on a no5 that I was asked to look at in the 70's. Hope this helps you. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Its a Strap clamp. The one I saw years ago was used for rubbing and or shaving Rounded / Rolled Traces and the like. It was faster to use than the Spring loaded type as it is easier to open to change work. The back facing teeth on the bottom gripped the leather item by the end, so you could use a Spoke shave to shave the bumps off then rub up and burnish the item after putting it through the Rounder. A handy tool for reins and the like. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi I've seen one Seat roller exactly like yours. It was used to roll out the Seat on Pigskin Show Saddles so that the Leather did not get a Glaze as happened with as normal Seat Slicker or Roller. Also when cementing the Skirts Flaps etc it did a very good job. The Saddler has passed on but I recall he had a German accent, so I feel this may be a Tool from Germany. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Laurie It is indeed the accessory Box for the old Singers Sewing Machines. I have had a number over the years usually when the Machine was used for Tailoring. My Mum told me she got hers in 1939 with a 31 K 20 for making Trousers and Overcoats. She was a Pro Seamstress. Used them for Binding, edging and the like. I think they were like an upmarket addition to make the Sale more attractive, like we do to-day with accessories. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.